Cover Christine Hutter, CEO of Moritz Grossmann
Christine Hutter, CEO of Moritz Grossmann
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Passion and a keen knowledge in high-end watchmaking fuelled the CEO of Moritz Grossmann's success as an independent watchmaker
A preeminent watchmaker and educator during his time, Moritz Grossmann is held in the same high regard among the watchmaking community in Glasshüte, Germany, as his friend Ferdinand Adolph Lange, the founder of A. Lange & Söhne. Apart from running his own manufacture, Grossmann wrote numerous essays and books to spread the knowledge of watchmaking. He also founded a watchmaking school that contributed to the reputation of Glashütte as a hub of watchmaking excellence.
His legacy lives on in modern times, thanks to Christine Hutter who recognised the importance of perpetuating Grossmann's passion for watchmaking. A watchmaker by training, Hutter had worked with A. Lange & Söhne, Glashütte Original, and Maurice Lacroix, during which time she gained knowledge in watch marketing and distribution. She subsequently learnt more about the heritage of Moritz Grossmann, which sparked her desire to be the owner of a watch company that produces high-quality watches. Hutter acquired the rights to the name and launched the brand from her kitchen in 2008.
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Under her leadership, Moritz Grossmann slowly but surely earned a reputation as an uncompromisingly high-end watchmaker. Its watches can be broadly divided into two main collections: Benu and the more minimalist Tefnut. The latter includes a ladies watch that incorporates a novel winding mechanism in the strap attachment at 6 o'clock.
An even more impressive invention is the automatic hammer winding mechanism found in the 106.0 Calibre that powers the Hamatic wristwatch. “From the start, we wanted to go to the highest craftsmanship and be a real manufacture. Today, we have a standard where we produce 90 per cent of the movement in-house. We try to develop new ways of watchmaking. We're very classic but also innovative.”
Above German watchmaker Moritz Grossmann (Photo courtesy of Moritz Grossmann)
German watchmaker Moritz Grossmann (Photo courtesy of Moritz Grossmann)
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In this interview with Tatler GMT, Hutter elaborates on her role as owner-watchmaker and being the rare woman of power in watchmaking.
What do you remember most about the early days when you started the company?
I had a strong vision of a manufacture committed to the highest standard of craftsmanship but what was more important was that I had a team who shared the same vision.
Is there pressure to live up to Moritz Grossmann's legacy?
Moritz Grossmann is a respected figure in Glasshüte; the watch museum here displays a bust of him at the entrance. We try to keep his watchmaking tenets alive through our movements. Grossmann also made the slimmest hands in pocket watches, something which we’re now doing for our wristwatches.
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Above Moritz Grossmann Calibre 106.0 with the hammer winding system
Moritz Grossmann Calibre 106.0 with the hammer winding system
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Why do you think collectors are drawn to Moritz Grossmann watches?
They must love the technical craftsmanship and all the intricate details that come with it. We’re happy to learn that our collectors recognise our quality and craftsmandship. We also don't produce in big quantity so the collector knows that the watch he or she owns is relatively exclusive. Our wish is to be recognised as a small manufacture with high standard of craftsmanship. I want us to be the ‘pearl’ of watchmaking.
In your opinion, what sets German watchmaking apart from the Swiss one?
We're more concerned with functionality and stability, not slim movements. Our movements look different; the Swiss has bridges, we have 2/3 or 3/4 mainplates. The name Glasshüte has also become renowned for its high standard in watchmaking. For instance at Moritz Grossman, we try to take a 120-year heritage and move it forward into the 21st century.
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Above Moritz Grossmann Benu Heritage Power Reserve Salmon
Moritz Grossmann Benu Heritage Power Reserve Salmon
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As a woman in a male-dominated industry, do you find it more challenging to succeed?
I don't face any discrimination nor do I find it more challenging. I'm a trained watchmaker, and I think my knowledge and passion have served me well. But sometimes you go into a meeting or a panel discussion, and you see only men around you. I’m used to it but I would like to see more women. At our manufacture, half of our watchmakers are women.
What are the qualities a watch CEO needs to have to be effective?
As CEO, you have to look at the big picture. In my case, I know about the technical aspect, so I can speak on the same level as the watchmaker. I’m also well-versed in the corporate side. Take small steps but always be mindful of the target in front of you.
Looking back, what were some of the biggest lessons?
It’s important to have the right team and to have the team support you all the way. You have to have the right production set-up to ensure quality and future development. It also takes time and money to establish a brand especially if you plan to go into the global market, so having patience is important.
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Brian Cheong leads the watch (Tatler GMT) and jewellery content at Tatler Malaysia, combining sharp editorial insight with years of luxury lifestyle experience. A seasoned journalist in luxury watches based in Kuala Lumpur, Brian had previously helmed World of Watches, Men's Folio and Prestige Malaysia.
