Cover H. Moser & Cie. manufacture in Neuhausen am Rheinfall
H. Moser & Cie. manufacture in Neuhausen am Rheinfall
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H. Moser & Cie. is one of the few with the bragging rights to produce all components of a watch’s regulating organ—including the exceptionally time-consuming hairspring
The mention of Schaffhausen immediately brings to mind IWC, the renowned watchmaker associated with the legendary Kurt Klaus, and whose logo even bears the canton’s name. But there is another, smaller—yet far from insignificant—watch manufacture steadily gaining international recognition: H. Moser & Cie., located in Neuhausen am Rheinfall, a town near the city of Schaffhausen.
As an independent brand, it is known for its singular vision of haute horlogerie, blending traditional Swiss craftsmanship with bold—and occasionally cheeky—ideas. A fine example is one of its key novelties at Watches and Wonders this year: a wide range of Endeavour timepieces with coloured stone dials, simply named Pop. Their playful appearances belie the complex watchmaking techniques required to power their heartbeats, which include the tourbillon and the minute repeater.
Read more: A fireside chat with Edouard and Bertrand Meylan of H. Moser & Cie.
Endeavour Minute Repeater Tourbillon Concept Pop with turquoise and deep orange coral dial
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For all its frivolity and whimsy on the outside, innovative mechanical engineering has been at the heart of H. Moser & Cie. since the Meylan family revived the brand in 2012. Its watchmaking headquarters houses Precision Engineering AG, set up by H. Moser & Cie. specifically to research, develop and manufacture key watch components, including the hairspring. This is an astounding achievement, considering the technical complexity of producing hairsprings—an in-house capability shared by only a few other watch brands.
The hairspring is crucial for timekeeping, as it forms part of the regulating system that determines a mechanical watch’s precision. Precision Engineering AG produces four types of hairsprings: the standard flat hairspring, the flat hairspring with Breguet curve, the cylindrical hairspring and the double hairspring. The double hairspring is the rarest of them all, comprising a pair of hairsprings that counter each other’s gravitational influence for more consistent timekeeping, regardless of the watch’s position.
See also: Cartier champions ancestral techniques through watchmaking
Above Manufacturing hairsprings is a task that few watch brands are able to do
Manufacturing hairsprings is a task that few watch brands are able to do
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The process begins with a 0.6mm round wire that is gradually drawn through a machine to reach the desired diameter—around 0.01mm—a step that can take up to two weeks, as the drawing must be done slowly to prevent the wire from breaking.
Still round, the wire is then cleaned in a “washing machine” before being precisely flattened—down to a thickness finer than a human hair—using a two-cylinder rolling machine housed in a climate-controlled room. From there, the wire moves from machine to skilled hands, where it is coiled into hairsprings with the help of a small ring. Although extremely meticulous, the team can produce up to 800 hairsprings a day.
The hairsprings are then manually shaped into either a flat curve (two-dimensional) or a Breguet overcoil curve (three-dimensional).
Read more: Discover why Parmigiani Fleurier is synonymous with superlative watchmaking
Above The watchmakers at H. Moser & Cie.
The watchmakers at H. Moser & Cie.
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Another interesting feature of H. Moser & Cie. is its modular escapement. Instead of being built directly into the movement, the balance wheel with hairspring, the pallet fork and the escape wheel are assembled on a separate module. This allows for greater precision and, more importantly, ease of servicing, as it can be removed and replaced without disassembling the entire watch.
Above Every new calibre begins in the R&D department. H. Moser & Cie. has produced more than 18 in-house calibres.
Every new calibre begins in the R&D department. H. Moser & Cie. has produced more than 18 in-house calibres.
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H. Moser & Cie. places a high value on its independence—an ethos that drives its relentless pursuit of in-house capabilities. While the brand embraces the freedom to innovate and experiment, it remains deeply rooted in the traditions of Swiss watchmaking. According to them, “they want to master time, not merely measure it.” Over the years, H. Moser & Cie. has produced more than 18 calibres, designed and made entirely in-house.
By mastering the production of complex components like the hairspring and pioneering innovations such as the modular escapement, H. Moser & Cie. is uniquely positioned to maintain full control over its manufacturing quality. It is quietly shaping the future of haute horlogerie, proving that true craftsmanship lies as much in innovation as it does in tradition.
As the company continues its upward trajectory, its current facility is already operating above capacity. To address this, it is constructing a larger site, scheduled for completion in 2028. The new location—right in the city and overlooking the spectacular Rhine Falls, Schaffhausen’s most iconic landmark—offers not just room to grow, but a symbolic vantage point reflecting its ambition to make more waves in fine watchmaking.
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Brian Cheong leads the watch (Tatler GMT) and jewellery content at Tatler Malaysia, combining sharp editorial insight with years of luxury lifestyle experience. A seasoned journalist in luxury watches based in Kuala Lumpur, Brian had previously helmed World of Watches, Men's Folio and Prestige Malaysia.
