Cover Franck Muller Long Island Evolution Master Jumper
Franck Muller Long Island Evolution Master Jumper
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From high complications to artistic expressions, Franck Muller hits its stride with these winning novelties
Once upon a time, Franck Muller was among the most prolific innovators in tourbillon watchmaking, so much so that it earned the moniker “Master of Complications”. Chief among its accomplishments was the world’s first triple-axis tourbillon in 2004.
While the focus on this complication—a costly endeavour, no doubt—has ebbed in recent years, its legacy remains strong and continues today with the new Vanguard Aero Revolution 3 Skeleton, featuring a fully openworked dial. This construction allows the tri-axial tourbillon, with its three sizeable concentric cages, to be enjoyed without distraction.
Crafting the MVT FM 2031-VS movement was a complex undertaking that took two years and 280 components to complete. In an unusual move for the watchmaker, the movement is mounted directly onto the caseback. Leaving nothing hidden, the open case sides also reveal its multi-layered construction.
To ensure maximum transparency, the crown has been re-engineered to integrate seamlessly within the 18k rose-gold tonneau case, with the mechanism fixed via a tube and secured to the sapphire crystal using a watertight locking system. The movement delivers 10 days of power reserve.
Read more: Sharon Lim, CEO of Franck Muller Pte Ltd, shares her plans for the avant-garde Swiss watch brand
Above Franck Muller Vanguard Aero Revolution 3 Skeleton
Franck Muller Vanguard Aero Revolution 3 Skeleton
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TIME SQUARE
Franck Muller returned to the drawing board to refine the proportions of the rectangular Long Island, further highlighting its curves, angles and lines. The new brushed titanium case now houses an openworked dial that reveals the five discs powering the jumping indications of the Long Island Evolution Master Jumper. The watch displays three jumping indications—the hour at 12 o’clock, the minutes in the centre, and the date at six o’clock.
As the jumping mechanism requires a huge amount of energy, Franck Muller devised an innovative double-barrel system—one to power the movement and date, and the other to drive the hour and minute discs.
The Long Island Evolution Master Jumper is also secured with an inner cage in rose gold for added protection against shocks.
Above Franck Muller Long Island Evolution Master Jumper
Franck Muller Long Island Evolution Master Jumper
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PLAYFUL ARTISTRY
Franck Muller has collaborated with a diverse range of artists to give its avant-garde creations fresh creative expressions. Most recently, it worked with Japanese artist Ryoko Kaneta who brought her doll-like dragon character to the dial of the Cintrée Curvex, injecting the watch’s sculptural shape with a touch of whimsy.
This year, the watchmaker engages the talents of New York-based Swiss visual artist Kelly Dabbah to reinterpret the Vanguard timepieces for men and women. The watches highlight—perhaps for the first time in watchmaking—an artistic technique called sublimation, in which a design is printed on a special plastic-based polymer transfer film using sublimation inks. The film is then transferred onto the dial using heat and pressure.
At 160°C, the ink pigments “sublimate” from a solid to a gaseous state, penetrating the dial coated in white lacquer. As the pigments cool, they solidify deep within the lacquer to create a high-definition design comparable to a tattoo.
The Vanguard Candy Mint features this design on the dial, providing a vibrant backdrop for the hands and numerals. The fibreglass case incorporates pink and mint green inserts, while another reference is set with diamonds.
Above Franck Muller Vanguard Candy Mint
Franck Muller Vanguard Candy Mint
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Above Franck Muller Vanguard Electric Feel
Franck Muller Vanguard Electric Feel
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The men’s Vanguard Electric Feel places the design directly onto the numerals against a carbon dial. The case is crafted from aluminium alloy, a lightweight material that lends the watch a contemporary edge.
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Brian Cheong leads the watch (Tatler GMT) and jewellery content at Tatler Malaysia, combining sharp editorial insight with years of luxury lifestyle experience. A seasoned journalist in luxury watches based in Kuala Lumpur, Brian had previously helmed World of Watches, Men's Folio and Prestige Malaysia.
