Cover Coveted Rolex dials include those made of natural materials such as green aventurine and mother‑of‑pearl, as well as those that come fully pave‑set with diamonds
Coveted Rolex dials include those made of natural materials such as green aventurine and mother‑of‑pearl, as well as those that come fully pave‑set with diamonds
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Discover the meticulous artistry and cutting‑edge innovation behind Rolex’s dials, where traditional craftsmanship meets modern technology
“Designing a dial, however flat and round it may be, means completely changing the way you look at things. And you also need to be able to listen, because inventing a new dial is first and foremost all about dialogue, an exchange of ideas and even debate,” says David Riboli, who heads the watch prototype department at Rolex. This statement encapsulates the spirit of innovation and collaboration that defines the creation of a Rolex dial. After all, the dial is the face of a watch and since its quality is a good indicator of the brand’s commitment to craftsmanship, it must be nothing short of impeccable. Leaving nothing to chance, Rolex has elevated the art of dial‑making to a form of alchemy, blending age‑old handcraft techniques with state‑of‑the‑art technology.
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Above Coveted Rolex dials include those made of natural materials such as green aventurine and mother‑of‑pearl, as well as those that come fully pave‑set with diamonds
Coveted Rolex dials include those made of natural materials such as green aventurine and mother‑of‑pearl, as well as those that come fully pave‑set with diamonds
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The journey of a Rolex dial begins in the Chêne‑Bourg district of Geneva, Switzerland, where 500 artisans dedicate their expertise to a production process that involves no less than 60 operations to complete. It all starts with forming the blanks: small, round plates stamped from a brass or gold strip that serve as the foundation for the miniature work of art to come as well as the base for coveted dials made of natural materials such as meteorite, onyx, turquoise and eisenkiesel (a type of quartz). Brass is favoured for its mechanical properties and conductivity, while gold’s malleability makes it ideal for gem‑set or enamelled dials.
Precision cutting and machining follow, where tiny apertures and holes are drilled into the blanks. Some as tiny as 0.2 mm, these piercings are essential for mounting the appliques, hour markers and other elements that adorn the dial later. The blanks then undergo polishing and sandblasting to smooth the surface and remove any imperfections. This provides a flawless base for subsequent steps, where the real magic begins. Brass dials are dipped in electroplating baths of gold and nickel to create a protective layer against oxidation. This ensures the durability and even distribution of the dial’s final colour as well. Dials destined for a sunray finish also undergo a silver‑plating bath.
Above The green and black lacquer dials of the Oyster Perpetual Day‑Date 40 and the Oyster Perpetual Air‑King respectively
The green and black lacquer dials of the Oyster Perpetual Day‑Date 40 and the Oyster Perpetual Air‑King respectively
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Rolex employs a variety of techniques to decorate its dials. Traditional ones include brushing the dial with a slightly abrasive solution to result in a sunray finish characterised by imperceptible fine, radiating lines; sandblasting, to create the uniform matte surface of a satin finish; guilloché, the precision engraving of surfaces with intricate, repetitive patterns (this is seen on the ice blue dial of this year’s Perpetual 1908 in 950 platinum); and champlevé grand feu enamelling. The last, used for the jigsaw puzzle motif on the dials on the
Oyster Perpetual Day‑Date 36 models from 2023, involves firing enamel at high temperatures to create vivid and long‑lasting colours. Contemporary techniques include laser technology, to create structured finishes such as grenage and graining.
Above The colourful jigsaw puzzle motif on the Oyster Perpetual Day‑Date 36 is achieved with the champlevé grand feu enamelling
The colourful jigsaw puzzle motif on the Oyster Perpetual Day‑Date 36 is achieved with the champlevé grand feu enamelling
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Colouring Rolex dials is done through three primary methods. Lacquering, which involves airbrushing fine layers of lacquer in a dust‑free environment, creates deep and intense colours, while electroplating, an electrochemical process where dials are coloured by immersing them in electrolytic baths, results in metallic hues. Physical Vapour Deposition (PVD), meanwhile, sees the application of ultra‑thin layers of metal and metal oxides in a vacuum chamber to achieve a multitude of colours, such as olive green and bright blue.
Following the colouring process is pad printing, or tampography. This transfers text, symbols or motifs (such as the colourful Celebration bubble pattern, as the brand calls it, on the Oyster Perpetual models introduced in 2023) onto the dial’s surface.
Above The Rolex crown applique is affixed onto Rolex dials by hand
The Rolex crown applique is affixed onto Rolex dials by hand
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In the final stage, appliques of the hour markers and the iconic Rolex crown are meticulously attached by hand. Using paper‑covered tweezers to avoid scratches, artisans insert the feet of the appliques into pre‑drilled holes and rivet them in place. Rolex dials undergo rigorous visual checks and random drop tests to ensure that all elements are securely anchored.
Despite the extensive research and advanced technology employed in creating Rolex dials, the final approval ultimately rests on the naked eye. While colour‑measuring instruments such as the spectro colorimeter can assess the tone of a colour, they lack the ability to judge beauty. This is where the expertise of Rolex’s teams from the dial design and manufacturing divisions come in. Riboli sums it up perfectly: “There’s no substitute for a well‑trained human eye,” he says. “This is why, for example, all the sunray‑finish dials are checked individually to ensure that the striations are uniform and regular. The beauty of a dial is what makes it so captivating and therefore, it has to be crafted to perfection.”
Credits
Images: Rolex
