Cover Gracing the cover of Tatler GMT Philippines this June: the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon (Photo: courtesy of Bvlgari)
Gracing the cover of Tatler GMT Philippines this June: the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon (Photo: courtesy of Bvlgari)
1 / 1
Bvlgari’s inaugural showing at Watches and Wonders 2025 was a declaration of disruptive intent and prowess. Within a fair increasingly dominated by legacy and nostalgia, it brought something bold and entirely new
It was about time. After seasons spent exhibiting just outside the Palexpo convention complex, the annual site of Watches and Wonders Geneva (WWG), Bvlgari finally debuted at the most important horological fair on the calendar in a manner that felt both overdue and undeniably fitting. WWG set the perfect backdrop to showcase a journey that started in 2014—the evolution of the Roman jeweller into a Swiss watchmaker, since adorned with ten world records, 13 revolutionary movements and a veritable lineup of groundbreaking novelties.
Also fortuitous that this year would see Bvlgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin’s appointment to the helm of LVMH Watches, succeeding Frédéric Arnault. Such a move affirms the brand’s place at the forefront of the market, propelled by its distinctive DNA that blends Swiss innovation with Italian creativity.
More from Tatler: The Arnault effect: how LVMH defines global luxury, indulgence and desire
This inherent duality is profoundly expressed in its headline pieces at Geneva: a compelling study in contrast and harmony. Babin remarks, “With the Octo Finissimo and Serpenti watches, we continue to explore new territories, to push the boundaries of design and fine watchmaking, and open new perspectives in horology.”
Above Each watch reveals the prowess of watchmakers and engineers at Bvlgari (Photo: Courtesy of Bvlgari)
Above The Serpenti is transformed once more (Photo: Courtesy of Bvlgari)
Each watch reveals the prowess of watchmakers and engineers at Bvlgari (Photo: Courtesy of Bvlgari)
1 / 2
Pursuit of Perfection
Breaking a new record was simply inevitable for a Maison so devoted since 2014, when it launched its quest towards extreme thinness with the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon. With a hand-wound movement at 1.95mm thick—the world’s slimmest flying tourbillon at the time—this piece propelled the collection that would become Bvlgari’s calling card in modern timekeeping.
With a slew of world records, the line has consistently fused minimalist design with micro- mechanical wizardry. “Each record has been a stepping stone...it’s about redefining what’s possible in mechanical watchmaking,” Babin comments. “With each challenge, we’ve had to rethink not only traditional techniques but also how watches are designed and developed.”
The latest chapter to this saga has now arrived with the new Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon. Measuring 40mm in diameter and just 1.85mm in thickness, it is the thinnest piece there’s ever been with the desirable complication, and a fitting “full circle” moment to the watch that started it all.
Above The Octo collection has consistently broken world records (Photo: Courtesy of Bvlgari)
The Octo collection has consistently broken world records (Photo: Courtesy of Bvlgari)
1 / 1
The heart of this feat is the manual-wound BVF 900 tourbillon movement with a 42-hour power reserve. The degree of precision in the skeletonisation is integral and deliberate; with light expertly diffused throughout, nothing is hidden, and the margin for error is razor-thin. Exacting craftsmanship is not just expected but essential—a testament to Bvlgari’s engineering prowess.
Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, product creation executive director for the Maison, explains, “Every detail, from the indexes to the tourbillon skeleton, bears witness to our commitment to excellence.” This is evident in the novelty’s interplay of innovative materials. The calibre is housed within a tungsten carbide main plate, while the bezel, case middle and lugs are crafted from microbead-frosted titanium. Also in titanium, the seamlessly integrated bracelet is engineered to just 1.5mm in thickness, including the folding clasp, to ensure the ultra-thin profile remains uncompromised.
Read more: Watches and Wonders 2025: 3 record-breaking timepieces
Above Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon at just 1.85mm thick (Photo: Courtesy of Bvlgari)
Above Key designer Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani (Photo: Courtesy of Bvlgari)
Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon at just 1.85mm thick (Photo: Courtesy of Bvlgari)
1 / 2
The two planar crowns, subtly integrated into the case at 8 o’clock for winding and 3 o’clock for time-setting, are fashioned from circular-grained stainless steel; as is the ratchet, which features intricate geometric engraving that adds visual and tactile depth. For optimal legibility, rhodium-plated hands sweep over the sandblasted brass base in DLC anthracite coating, a matt finish that sharpens clarity while reinforcing the modern, high-performance aesthetic. Unlike its regulator-style predecessors, the Octo Finissimo Ultra and Ultra COSC, this execution unifies time display on a single dial, elevating both function and form.
With this harmonious mix, Bvlgari delivers a watch that embodies mechanical complexity and minimalist sophistication in equal measure.
Pure Elegance
And what of its other release? Bvlgari continues to speak in the precise language of modernism, but also reveals its ancient tongue of seduction and perpetual rebirth. Serpenti Aeterna sees the Maison’s iconic motif undergo its most daring transformation yet, distilled to its purest form.
Above Serpenti Aeterna in rose gold (Photo: Courtesy of Bvlgari)
Serpenti Aeterna in rose gold (Photo: Courtesy of Bvlgari)
1 / 1
No eyes, no scales, no artifice—only the serpent’s most elemental form remains, in exquisite high jewellery. It’s certainly a bold move for the Maison, while affirming its determination to always bring something new to the table. With the Aeterna, Bvlgari shows the world its glorious dance between yesterday and tomorrow, capturing the rich Roman heritage that precedes it and skillfully projects it into the future.
“I like to design in a pure, contemporary style, with few decorative elements—to draw lines that speak the language of eternity,” muses Stigliani. “Octo Finissimo is a perfect expression of this quest for the absolute through form, which now transforms Serpenti.” Embracing the wrist in a single gesture, the Aeterna’s fluidity is like a second skin with even greater sophistication.
See also: Watches and Wonders 2025: Best jewellery watches from Chanel, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and more
Above Serpenti Aeterna in white gold, a fully pavé model with green hands (Photo: Courtesy of Bvlgari)
Serpenti Aeterna in white gold, a fully pavé model with green hands (Photo: Courtesy of Bvlgari)
1 / 1
No detail slips past the brand’s visionary modernity. The ingenious clasp mechanism, which demanded two years of development, achieves perfect aesthetic integration and comfort. Invisible from the outside, the iconic hexagonal scales are subtly etched into the inner contour of both variants: one in rose gold, kissed by a spattering of diamonds, and the other fully pavé-set in white gold. Precious gemstones illuminate the snow-set dial, extending along the spine to the very tip of the tail.
The name “Aeterna” evokes timelessness, a fitting moniker for this era when horological connections are more emotional than empirical. In the years ahead, the question won’t be whether Bvlgari belongs in Geneva—it’s how the rest of the industry keeps up.
NOW READ
World Watch Day: Horology celebrates global recognition on October 10, 2025
Trained as a student journalist, Mac’s knack for writing was a serendipitous discovery. Years later and she can’t imagine doing anything else. When she isn’t typing away on a story, she revels in being lost in a new city, revisiting a cosy film or sitcom, and idling away with her dogs.
