Cover The blue glow‑in‑the‑dark fibres of the new CFT carbon echo the watch’s luminescent hands and hour markers
The blue glow‑in‑the‑dark fibres of the new CFT carbon echo the watch’s luminescent hands and hour markers
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Audemars Piguet unveils a new Royal Oak Concept watch with next‑gen forged carbon
Renowned for its inventive spirit, Audemars Piguet has consistently pushed the boundaries of what is possible in watchmaking, integrating cutting‑edge technology with timeless design. Since its inception in 1875, the brand has explored a diverse array of materials, from precious metals to high‑tech ceramics, in a bid to enhance both the aesthetic and functional qualities of its timepieces.
This commitment to innovation is exemplified in the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split‑Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date, which showcases the brand’s latest advancement: Chroma Forged Technology (CFT) carbon. This material not only exemplifies the Swiss watchmaker’s dedication to quality and durability, but also opens up new creative horizons.
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Developed over five years by Audemars Piguet’s dedicated research and development team, the patented CFT carbon marks a new era in watchmaking. It is a game changer in several ways. Firstly, the non‑porous material offers exceptional resistance to humidity, heat and shocks, surpassing previous generations of carbon used in watchmaking. With a lower resin content compared to traditional forged carbon, CFT carbon is also less susceptible to scratches, enhancing the longevity of the watch. In terms of aesthetics, CFT carbon allows for direct colouring of the carbon fibres instead of the resin. This opens up a world of design possibilities, allowing for a wider range of colour combinations.
Above Small pieces of carbon fibre are moulded in layers with resin to create CFT carbon
Small pieces of carbon fibre are moulded in layers with resin to create CFT carbon
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To achieve all this, the manufacturing of CFT carbon involves a meticulous process. After the carbon fibres are cut into small pieces and coloured with pigments, they are manually placed within a mould of the chosen design and completed with resin. This process is repeated to create layers, before the material is compressed to remove air bubbles, then cured under pressure for about 10 hours. What results is a carbon block that is then machined for six to eight hours to create the final component. Due to the manual blending stages, each case middle produced has a slightly different motif, making every timepiece truly unique.
In order to complement the use of CFT carbon and cutting‑edge technology, the watch also takes on a futuristic aesthetic that the Royal Oak Concept timepieces are known for. The ultra‑light CFT carbon case middle, adorned with blue luminescent fibres to enhance the watch’s playful aesthetic, stands as a striking contrast to the black ceramic bezel, crown, push‑pieces and caseback.
Above The new Royal Oak Concept Split‑Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date
The new Royal Oak Concept Split‑Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date
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While this watch is certainly a stunner on the wrist, horology connoisseurs will also appreciate the attention to small details present here. Conceived with extremely exact machining, just like the bridge of a movement, the dial of this Royal Oak Concept is a testament to the brand’s precision machining. Circular apertures cut into a sandblasted nickel silver plate reveal the intricate mechanics within, offering a glimpse into the heart of this timepiece. The two‑tone design, fusing dark hues with electric blue accents, adds depth and visual interest that will keep its wearer captivated long after checking the time.
Powering this new timepiece is the self‑winding Calibre 4407, a mechanical feat that combines a flyback chronograph, a split‑seconds mechanism, a GMT function and a large date display. First introduced in 2023, it is a complex movement, yet is designed with ergonomics and simplicity of use in mind—a hallmark of Audemars Piguet’s commitment to function.
Above Precision in every step of the making
Precision in every step of the making
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While the case is mounted on a blue rubber strap with black accents by default, it comes equipped with the interchangeability system introduced in the 43 mm Royal Oak Concept collection in 2023. This allows for an effortless switch‑out for the second strap the watch comes with, in black rubber with blue accents.
As Sébastian Vivas, the museum and heritage director at Audemars Piguet, notes, “2024 marks a historic milestone for the brand in the field of materials thanks to its introduction of a new technology that allows the creation of polychrome ceramics and golds, as well as a new generation of forged carbon that is entirely free of porosity”. From introducing forged carbon to the industry in 2007 to the development of this new CFT carbon, Audemars Piguet continues to consistently challenge its own limits and that of watchmaking.
Discover more at www.audemarspiguet.com.
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Images: Audemars Piguet
