Cover The design of the Van Cleef & Arpels Zip necklace is based on the functional fastener
The design of the Van Cleef & Arpels Zip necklace is based on the functional fastener
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How an everyday object was transformed into an iconic masterpieces from Van Cleef & Arpels
It takes real imagination and creativity to transform a simple utilitarian object like the zipper into sumptuous jewellery, and one whose design has proven to be immensely versatile over time. Case in point: the Van Cleef & Arpels Zip necklace. One of the greatest jewellery masterpieces of the modern era, it drew inspiration from a suggestion by Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor, and brought to life by Renée Puissant, daughter of founding couple Estelle Arpels and Alfred Van Cleef. The original 1950 design was a yellow gold and diamond piece that can be worn either as a necklace (when partially opened) or a bracelet (when fully zipped up).
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A Zip Couture necklace based on the original 1950 design
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The design features two gold ribbons with tiny hooks that interlock, creating a flexible structure. Every detail is meticulously refined by the master jeweller to guarantee that the mechanism operates smoothly and the jewellery drapes the wearer's neck and wrist elegantly.
See also: Van Cleef & Arpels’ love letter to colour: the freshly bloomed Fleurs d’Hawaï
Above A Zip Couture necklace is longer for a more glamorous look
A Zip Couture necklace is longer for a more glamorous look
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The Zip necklace’s transformative style, reflecting Van Cleef & Arpels’ signature ingenuity in reimagining jewellery, has only grown more intricate over the years. For one, it has been adorned with a variety of precious stones in a multitude of colours. It has also been infused with distinct cultural aesthetics, such as Oriental elements. A longer version called the Zip Couture was created as an additional style option—it can be worn as a sautoir to decorate the décolleté or a bare back.
Above When partially opened, the Zip is a stunning necklace
Above When completely closed, the Zip becomes a beautiful bracelet
When partially opened, the Zip is a stunning necklace
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From its inventive origins to its contemporary interpretations, the Van Cleef & Arpels Zip necklace remains a testament to the maison’s artistry and vision. It embodies movement, versatility and timeless elegance, not to mention a symbol of how creativity can transform an everyday into the extraordinary.
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Brian Cheong leads the watch (Tatler GMT) and jewellery content at Tatler Malaysia, combining sharp editorial insight with years of luxury lifestyle experience. A seasoned journalist in luxury watches based in Kuala Lumpur, Brian had previously helmed World of Watches, Men's Folio and Prestige Malaysia.
