Cover Van Cleef & Arpels’ ‘Treasure Island’ high jewellery collection is inspired by the sight and sounds of romantic pirate adventure tales. Models wear: Coquilles merveilleuses earrings; Ancre de Santiago transformable long necklace; Eclat de Catherine ring; Mousqueton de grenats earrings; Carte au trésor clip; Dorestad ring; Trésor graphique ring. (Photo: Van Cleef & Arpels)
Van Cleef & Arpels’ ‘Treasure Island’ high jewellery collection is inspired by the sight and sounds of romantic pirate adventure tales. Models wear: Coquilles merveilleuses earrings; Ancre de Santiago transformable long necklace; Eclat de Catherine ring; Mousqueton de grenats earrings; Carte au trésor clip; Dorestad ring; Trésor graphique ring. (Photo: Van Cleef & Arpels)
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The new high jewellery collection from Van Cleef & Arpels is inspired by Robert Louis Stevenson’s culture-defining novel ‘Treasure Island’
Over 150 years ago, Robert Louis Stevenson found himself ill, and bored, and restless. He was whiling away a wet and windy season in Scotland and after producing several (by his own admission) second-rate stories, Stevenson put down his pen and instead picked up a brush. And where others might have doodled a nonsensical loop, the soon-to-be bestselling novelist sat down and created an intricate, beautiful map of a far-off island, bristling with beauty, danger and treasure.
“It was elaborately and (I thought) beautifully coloured; the shape of it took my fancy beyond expression,” wrote Stevenson several years after the fact. “It contained harbours that pleased me like sonnets; and with the unconsciousness of the predestined, I ticketed my performance ‘Treasure Island’.”
Above French comic book author and artist David B. has reimagined Robert Louis Stevenson’s ‘Treasure Island’ in a series of colourful, whimsical illustrations
French comic book author and artist David B. has reimagined Robert Louis Stevenson’s ‘Treasure Island’ in a series of colourful, whimsical illustrations
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As Stevenson admired his work, something happened. Characters appeared on the page and his imagination. “Their brown faces and bright weapons peeped out upon me from unexpected quarters,” Stevenson wrote, “as they passed to and fro, fighting, and hunting treasure, on these few square inches of a flat projection. The next thing I knew, I had some paper before me and was writing out a list of chapters.”
From the map sprung a story—from the story came a book that became the instant classic, Treasure Island. And from that book came nearly our entire understanding of pirates in popular culture: bloodthirsty, unpredictable, treacherous, dangerous but above all, completely captivating.
Above Model wears: Voguer en mer transformable long necklace; Ame du navire ring
Model wears: Voguer en mer transformable long necklace; Ame du navire ring
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To this day, there is little more fascinating than a tale set on the high seas, featuring mutinous buccaneers and dogeared maps that promise treasure beyond belief. In that same spirit of adventure and romance, Van Cleef & Arpels unveiled their newest high jewellery collection against a backdrop of glittering sea and sand and sun. The collection is wildest imagination brought to life—a real-life treasure trove filled with delights cast in gold and sparkling stones.
“Since the year 2000, we've been telling stories inspired by the literary world, and Treasure Island is one of those,” Julie Clody Medina, president of Van Cleef & Arpels, Asia Pacific tells us. “The literary world has always inspired us—stories that will allow us to create the sense of emotion, poetry, enchantment, be it the love story of Romeo and Juliet, or the extraordinary travel voyage of Jules Verne. And usually the common thread is that those stories are beyond boundaries; they are echoing beyond European or Western culture.”
There is no denying the draw of Treasure Island. Jim Hawkins’ rollicking, roving adventure across the world, accompanied and attacked by pirates, has been adapted countless times for film, television, radio and the stage. “All of us, when we were young, no matter where we grew up, we played pirates,” Clody Medina says. “It's in the collective imagination, and it goes far beyond borders.”
Above Model wears: Smollett clip.Yellow gold, rose gold, three cushion-cut pink spinels for 4.46 carats, pink spinels, diamonds
Model wears: Smollett clip.Yellow gold, rose gold, three cushion-cut pink spinels for 4.46 carats, pink spinels, diamonds
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Treasure Island and its vibrant story and imagery are brought to real, intricate life through the maison’s dedication and artisanship, taking shape over three distinct chapters. In Chapter One, we’re taken on a journey across the high seas, with all of the beauty and none of the deprivations of 19th-century sea travel. The ocean’s ever-shifting shades are captured in all their forms, from the serene reflection of moonlight in still waters to the glittering of sunlight amidst turquoise waves. Sailor’s knots appear recast in gold and entwined in diamonds; frothy waves cast in sapphires and brilliant, twinkling diamonds. Here, anchors are not barnacle-encrusted but dazzling confections of pink spinels, while glimmering turtles crest the waves. And the stars of the show: Pirates John, David and Jim, beautifully worked in gold by the Van Cleef & Arpels artisans.
The pirates are first worked in green wax to capture the intricate levels of detail needed
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“This adventure novel allowed our creative team and craftsmen to pay tribute to the patrimony of the Maison, to the heritage, while being contemporary,” Clody Medina says. “If you think about the pirates, for example, usually they're rough, they're mean, they're violent—but not with Van Cleef & Arpels.” Here the pirates are jaunty, charming figures, their clothes not only clean but shining. Through green wax sculpture work, the maison’s craftsmen were able to convey the material softness of fabric or the delicacy of a feather.
Above The making of Coquillage Mystérieux clip (white gold, rose gold, yellow gold, buff-topped Traditional Mystery Set rubies, rubies, emerald, white cultured pearl, pink and white diamonds)
The making of Coquillage Mystérieux clip (white gold, rose gold, yellow gold, buff-topped Traditional Mystery Set rubies, rubies, emerald, white cultured pearl, pink and white diamonds)
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“Then we land on the mysterious and marvellous island,” Clody Medina elaborates for Chapter Two. “Here there is the exploration of nature, lush garden and the discovery of the island.” Nature abounds, in the way that Van Cleef & Arpels does so well. Beautiful butterflies, their ethereal delicacy captured in shimmering stones; palm trees whose emerald leaves shine in the sun—don’t look away, you might miss the moment the sun’s rays obscure the glimmering treasure chest. Scattered in the sand you might find seashells—these ones are glimmering with square rubies and white and pink diamonds and enclose a hidden treasure inside: a tiny fairy in white gold, bearing an emerald and nestled within a coral reef in carved and hammered yellow gold.
Above The Figuras bracelet (yellow gold, diamonds)
The Figuras bracelet (yellow gold, diamonds)
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And then comes Chapter Three with the treasure hunt, and what a treasure hunt it is. In the Van Cleef & Arpels artisans’ vivid imagination, the novel comes to life with treasures gathered from across the world, from early civilisations, and from some of the rarest and most beautiful jewellery pieces in history. The Figuras Bracelet, inspired by pre-Colombian jewellery, is a playful assemblage of golden faces inspired by archetypal figurines used by the Olmecs—the earliest known Mesoamerican civilisation—as offerings to the gods. With the Libertad earrings, Van Cleef & Arpels have celebrated the Chimù civilisation of 10th-century Peru; in the Dieu du vent and Dieu du ciel Clips we see a reworking of Mayan divine figures Huracan and Itzamna.
Just as Stevenson’s map was transformed into an iconic, culture-defining story; so has that story been transmuted into treasure itself, by Van Cleef & Arpels. “It's a piece of art that is wearable in so many ways.” Clody Medina says. “This is something [Van Cleef & Arpels CEO and creative director] Nicolas Bos used to say, ‘Nobody needs jewellery to live, but life without jewellery would be sad.’ I love this quote and I use it very often. The capacity to tell a story and to convey poetry, harmony, positive vision of life—it is very joyful, very benevolent, very immersive.”
Emma Chong is the Managing Editor of Tatler Malaysia, overseeing the editorial direction and vision for the print, digital and social media arms of the title. She has over 15 years experience in fashion and lifestyle publishing, and has led print and digital editorial teams at ELLE Malaysia, Time Out Kuala Lumpur, The Luxe Nomad and more.
Outside of work, Emma spends her time wrangling children (only her own) and boosting the Malaysian economy through her support of local fashion and homeware brands.
