Cover Model show during the exclusive Pomellato The Dualism of Milan high jewellery collection launch event at Museo della Permanente in Milan, Italy. (Photo: Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Pomellato)
Model show during the exclusive Pomellato The Dualism of Milan high jewellery collection launch event at Museo della Permanente in Milan, Italy. (Photo: Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Pomellato)
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The beauty of Italy’s cosmopolitan metropolis can be found in its two contrasting yet complementary characters, as Pomellato demonstrates in its latest high jewellery collection: The Dualism of Milan
Milan is one of the most famous cities in the world, celebrated for being a global capital of creativity—namely for fashion, art and design. Yet, as Italy’s financial centre, there is a more serious and austere side to the metropolis reflected in the towering skyscrapers and modern business districts.
Herein lies the city’s harmonious paradox, where these seemingly contradictory identities can seamlessly complement each other and coexist. As a proudly Milanese jeweller since its founding in 1967, Pomellato pays tribute to its birthplace’s unique spirit through its latest high jewellery collection, The Dualism of Milan.
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Above Dance performance by Kataklò during the event (Photo: Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Pomellato)
Dance performance by Kataklò during the event (Photo: Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Pomellato)
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This June, Tatler Singapore was among the selected media who attended the collection’s official unveiling at a gala dinner held at the historic Museo della Permanente in Milan. Through a captivating video and a dazzling model show, the collection’s 51 handcrafted masterpieces were presented—each a breathtaking testament to the soul of the city and to the brand’s deep-rooted connection to its homeland.
To express the duality of Milan, the high jewellery collection comprises two distinct chapters: Milan’s Monochromatic Treasures and Milanese Colour Prism. The former conveys the linear, rational and quieter side of the city, characterised by an aesthetic that relies on refined design, discreet details and a subtle use of colour—bordering on monochromatic. A key inspiration of the chapter is the Planetario di Milano designed by Milanese architect Piero Portaluppi and built in 1930. The building, still in operation today, features a design of strict lines and a cold exterior made of stone and marble, decorated with subtle details like a trail of constellations.
Above Planetario jewellery set (Photo: Pomellato)
Planetario jewellery set (Photo: Pomellato)
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The Planetario set of jewellery in the Milan’s Monochromatic Treasures theme is a nod to this iconic planetarium, capturing the feeling of stargazing under Milan’s inky night skies through rare Tahitian pearls in dark and stormy shades, complemented by sparkling diamonds, blue sapphires, and grey spinels. On the Planetario necklace, in particular, a string of 23 Tahitian pearls encircle the neckline and culminate in a chain—a signature of the house—on which a diamond-set orb decorated with blue sapphires in various cuts is suspended, reminiscent of a planet.
Drawing inspiration from more Milanese architecture, the work of renowned Argentine-American architect César Pelli informed the sculptural and sinuous Asimmetrico creations within Milan’s Monochromatic Treasures. The asymmetrical forms of articulated rose gold plates that softly undulate across the skin recall the fluid curvature of Pelli’s UniCredit Tower in Milan’s business district of Porta Nuova. The technique required to achieve the supple, fabric-like effect of the Asimmetrico choker, which moves with its wearer, is testament to Pomellato’s expertise in precious metals. The choker is available in two versions: one with polished gold and diamond-paved plates, and the other fully paved with 2,924 diamonds. Each can be paired with a matching cuff and earrings.
Above Barocco necklace (Photo: Pomellato)
Barocco necklace (Photo: Pomellato)
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In contrast to the monochromatic architectural and sculptural forms found in Milan’s Monochromatic Treasures, the Milanese Colour Prism theme unfolds in a burst of colour and organic shapes that represent the flamboyant, dynamic and creative soul of the city. Unexpected colour combinations are abundant here, allowing vivid and rare gems like fuchsia spinels, electric blue tanzanites and lush green tourmalines to take centre stage. In many of the pieces, gems are kept in their irregular, organic shapes and used in surprising arrangements that reflect the artful irreverence of Milanese design.
One of the archetypal pieces of Milanese Colour Prism is the multicoloured Barocco necklace. Appearing almost like delectable rock candy, a vibrant kaleidoscope of glossy gems such as aquamarines, rubellites, tsavorites, tanzanites, mandarin garnets, green tourmalines and blue zircons showcase Pomellato’s signature baroque cut, where the stones appear to be left in their natural shapes of beautiful imperfection. These colourful gems adorn the front of the rose-gold chain, interspersed with rose gold links set with diamonds. A central Paraiba tourmaline of almost 34 carats is suspended from the chain, complementing the necklace’s free-form design. While this creation evokes an untamed spirit, it is only achieved through the sophisticated artistry of the brand’s artisans and lapidaries—a quintessential characteristic of Pomellato.
Above Pomellato The Dualism of Milan Spinelli di Fuoco necklace (Photo: Pomellato)
Pomellato The Dualism of Milan Spinelli di Fuoco necklace (Photo: Pomellato)
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Another piece that captures the maison’s passion for and prowess in coloured gemstones is the Spinelli di Fuoco necklace. A rare combination of red, pink, purple, violet, grey, orange, amber and scarlet spinels fans out from a rose-gold chain embellished with a line of white diamonds.. These 238 spinel cabochons, totalling 365 carats of stones, are individually set in unique settings designed specifically for each gem. This allows for an unparalleled fluidity, almost like a fabric collar that drapes perfectly around the wearer's neck. Complementing this piece are two pairs of earrings, featuring an array of spinels in a range of hues and white diamonds.
‘These two spirits of Milan resonate with the inner identity of Pomellato,” says Vincenzo Castaldo, Pomellato’s creative director. “It rests on what is tangible—perfect knowledge of artisan jewellers, Pomellato’s complete mastery of all the steps involved in creating a piece of high jewellery—and what is intangible in the creation, where the colour of a stone or the shape of a jewel evokes an emotion. In combining these two apparently opposite faces of Milan—one concrete, the other intangible, each with its own character—this high jewellery collection gives us a true, in-depth, multi-dimensional view of the city.”
Click through the gallery below to view more jewellery from the collection.
Pomellato The Dualism of Milan Asimmetrico jewellery set (Photo: Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Pomellato)
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Annabel Tan is the Editor of Watches and Jewellery at Tatler Singapore, where she covers all things luxury timepieces and fine jewellery across both print and digital platforms. She is also the Editor of Tatler GMT Singapore, a role that deepens her fascination with the ever-evolving world of watchmaking. Outside of work, she’s usually on the hunt for her next favourite watch that she can’t afford, planning her next beach getaway, or catching up on the latest Formula 1 race.
