How luxury jewellers are preserving the art of craftsmanship for future generations

Milanese jeweller Pomellato is similarly passionate about cultivating young talent, particularly in fostering the next generation of master goldsmiths. Recognising that the bold artistry synonymous with the brand is only possible through the transmission of skills, it launched the Pomellato Virtuosi Academy in 2018 in partnership with Galdus vocational school. Based in Milan, Italy, the programme offers a rigorous three‑to‑seven‑year curriculum that combines classroom instruction, hands‑on workshops and apprenticeships with Pomellato’s master artisans, emphasising both traditional techniques and contemporary innovations.

In October last year, the Academy entered a new phase with its relocation to the prestigious Milano Innovation District, an advanced learning hub that bridges traditional craftsmanship with modern technology, as well as the doubling of student capacity for its three‑year programme—a crucial move amid growth in the Italian jewellery sector. The expanded programme now includes diverse specialised tracks such as gemmology, gem‑setting, stone‑cutting, goldsmithing, and courses focused on digital technologies and advanced techniques—reflecting the evolving demands of the industry. With a remarkable 90 per cent employment rate for graduates, the Academy is proving to be an essential pipeline for future master goldsmiths.

“Our partnership with Pomellato continues to evolve, responding to the growing needs of the sector,” says Diego Montrone, president of Galdus. “With this expansion, we’re not only training more talents, but also preparing them for the technological challenges of tomorrow.”

The Finer Point

​​While it is crucial to impart jewellery traditions and techniques to foster the next generation of artisans, it is equally important to create awareness and educate the public about the jewellery arts, as exemplified by L’École, School of Jewelry Arts. Founded in 2012 with the support of French jewellery maison Van Cleef & Arpels, L’École was conceived as a space where the public can discover the rich artistry behind fine jewellery.

“Jewellery has always been an art form that is underappreciated by the public,” notes Olivier Segura, managing director of L’École Asia Pacific. “Research and studies specific to jewellery arts are minimal compared to other forms of art; there aren’t many museums with galleries or exhibitions dedicated to jewellery only. Van Cleef & Arpels is passionate about jewellery in all its aspects, and [we] believe we have the responsibility to share this passion and appreciation with the widest audience possible.”

L’École has permanent campuses in Paris, Hong Kong, Shanghai and Dubai, where it provides courses throughout the year. Additionally, it has expanded its programmes worldwide with travelling editions featuring special courses, talks, publications and exhibitions in cities such as Tokyo, New York and Lyon. Unlike traditional brand‑led training programmes, L’École is open to everyone—young and old, novices and connoisseurs—offering courses spanning art history, gemmology, hands‑on craftsmanship and more.

“Since its inception in 2012, L’École has developed a range of programmes to cater to different audiences, offering not only courses, but also abundant free learning resources such as exhibitions, online discussions, educational videos and a library with free public access,” Segura adds. “The establishment of a dedicated research department in 2017 underscores L’École’s commitment to sparking curiosity among the public by exploring lesser‑known or unknown fields of knowledge.”

A testament to L’École’s impact is the success story of a teenager who first attended one of its nomadic sessions in Lyon a few years ago and, after participating in multiple L’École workshops, was “mesmerised and determined to become a jeweller”, shares Segura. She has since realised her dream and is today working as a jeweller for Van Cleef & Arpels.

“Promoting general knowledge of jewellery arts is crucial for sustaining local jewellery‑making traditions,” Segura explains. “Increased awareness about jewellery arts can inspire people to delve deeper into the rich heritage and specificities of their region’s jewellery culture.” This commitment to education is one of L’École’s most distinctive features, as it prioritises research and knowledge‑sharing. In an increasingly digitised industry, L’École remains steadfast in its belief that traditional craftsmanship must not be lost.

“Jewellery is not just a craft; it is an art form that requires dedication, precision and creativity,” Segura emphasises. By making these skills accessible and engaging, L’École plays a crucial role in preserving the jewellery arts for future generations, ensuring that the beauty and complexity of the craft are appreciated by a broader audience.

Broadening Horizons

At Tiffany & Co, jewellery education is not just about technical expertise; it is also about fostering diversity, which is essential for nurturing creativity and innovation within the industry. A diverse range of perspectives, backgrounds and experiences enriches the craft, allowing for a broader exploration of ideas and techniques that can elevate the art of jewellery design. Recognising this, the American jeweller launched Tiffany Atrium in 2022 as its social impact platform, dedicated to advancing opportunities in the fine jewellery and creative fields, particularly for under‑represented communities.

One of its flagship initiatives is the Tiffany & Co x CFDA Jewelry Designer Award, which debuted this year. In partnership with the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), this first‑of‑its‑kind programme supports emerging designers through hands‑on jewellery education, mentorship, in‑depth lectures, monthly sessions with Tiffany & Co’s design team, and studio tours.

As Stéphanie Oueda Cruz, vice‑president of diversity, equity, inclusion and belonging at Tiffany & Co, explains: “The Tiffany & Co x CFDA Jewelry Designer Award uplifts Tiffany Atrium’s mission to advance professional opportunities for historically under‑represented communities and create a more diverse and inclusive jewellery industry.” This January, the brand proudly announced Jameel Mohammed, founder of New York‑based jewellery label Khiry, as the inaugural recipient, welcoming him into the family with a one‑year paid fellowship within its design department.

As the luxury jewellery industry navigates the complexities of the modern world, the concerted efforts of prestigious names such as Chopard, Pomellato, Van Cleef & Arpels and Tiffany & Co illustrate a shared commitment to supporting and preserving the artistry of fine jewellery through education and mentorship. By fostering diversity and inclusivity, these initiatives empower the next generation of artisans while enriching the cultural tapestry of the jewellery community.

This holistic approach ensures that the age‑old craftsmanship of jewellery‑making is not only sustained, but also constantly evolving. In doing so, they are creating a vibrant legacy that celebrates the beauty, complexity and creativity of jewellery for generations to come, reaffirming that the true value of jewellery lies not just in its exquisite design, but also the stories, traditions and innovations behind it.

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