Cover Cindy Chao 20th Anniversary Collection Feather Brooch in titanium and ox horn set with a 4-carat brown-yellow diamond, diamonds, yellow diamonds, and brown diamonds
Cindy Chao 20th Anniversary Collection Feather Brooch in titanium and ox horn set with a 4-carat brown-yellow diamond, diamonds, yellow diamonds, and brown diamonds
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Celebrating two decades of artistry, Cindy Chao unveils her latest feather brooches, pushing the boundaries of high jewellery with an unprecedented 180-degree twist in titanium and diamonds
For the past two decades, Cindy Chao has charted her own path in the world of high jewellery, blending the architectural rigour of her training with the expressive curves of a sculptor to create works that are profoundly three-dimensional and organic. As her eponymous brand continues to unveil its 20th anniversary creations, Chao returns to one of her most iconic and challenging motifs: the feather.
This latest collection of feather brooches does more than capture the essence of flight; it immortalises a single, fleeting moment of lightness thanks to a distinct 180-degree twist. Each new plume is sculpted with this intricate detail, suggesting a feather caught mid-air, gently shifting its course in response to an invisible current of wind. The ability to translate titanium and diamonds—some of the world’s hardest materials—into a precious creation embodying weightlessness and spatial dimensionality is testament to Cindy Chao’s two decades of mastery.
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Above The 20th Anniversary Collection Feather Brooch in titanium set with a 8-carat brown-yellow diamond, diamonds, tsavorites, coloured sapphires, and colour-change sapphire
Above The 20th Anniversary Collection Feather Brooch in titanium set with a 3-carat yellow diamond, diamonds, yellow diamonds, coloured sapphires and tsavorites
The 20th Anniversary Collection Feather Brooch in titanium set with a 8-carat brown-yellow diamond, diamonds, tsavorites, coloured sapphires, and colour-change sapphire
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The feather motif first took flight in Chao’s oeuvre in 2016, when the brand was invited to the prestigious art fair, Biennale des Antiquaires, in Paris. Inspired by the elegance of the Belle Époque, the period’s prominent use of feathers in Parisian women’s fashion laid the foundation for the seminal 2016 Black Label Masterpiece XVI Phoenix Feather Brooch. That groundbreaking work, later auctioned at Christie’s Hong Kong, established the feather as a defining thematic collection for the brand.
Today, the new 20th Anniversary Feather Brooches carry forward this legacy of lightness. The artistry lies in the illusion of vitality, where every filament seems to drift in different directions, stirred by the subtlest movement. Looking back on her journey, Chao describes her current state of mind as "light and effortless, just like a feather". She reflects that in her earlier years, her work was driven by an ambition to be seen and recognised. During that time, she says, "I [kept] on adding and adding, so that people [could] see all my talents in one go,”. Over time, however, her artistic philosophy has evolved, distilling her creations to their most essential forms. This transformation reflects her now matured understanding of artistry, the confidence she has gained throughout the years, and her evolved view on life.
Above The creation of each feather brooch begins with a life-sized, three-dimensional wax sculpture
The creation of each feather brooch begins with a life-sized, three-dimensional wax sculpture
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The complexity of these new feather brooches demanded a profound commitment to mastery, pushing the technical boundaries of what is possible in titanium. As with all her works, the process began with Cindy Chao’s meticulous wax sculpting, where she refined the feather’s form over the course of a year and a half. Upon seeing the full-scale wax model, the European master craftsman, who has collaborated with Chao for over 15 years, was astonished by the spiral structure, noting that the undulating twists pushed the limits of structural possibility.
Executing this vision in metal required the full expertise of artisans with decades of experience. Titanium, known for being one of the hardest metals with low malleability, demanded careful pre-planning: the thickness of each section had to be calculated to ensure both the structural integrity required for setting thousands of diamonds and the delicate lightness that defines a feather.
The completed brooch achieves fluidity and grace in three-dimensional space, featuring a breakthrough in double-sided gemstone setting. Thousands of gemstones are meticulously arranged on both sides of the titanium base, with the placement of each stone calculated to blend light, shadow, and structure for a perfect visual balance.
Above Cindy Chao Sculpting Time exhibition in Taiwan
Cindy Chao Sculpting Time exhibition in Taiwan
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The new feather creations were recently unveiled at the brand’s annual exhibition, Sculpting Time, held this November in Taipei. The presentation offered an immersive experience, showcasing a unique artistic dialogue between Chao’s jewels and the installations of Taiwanese artist Wen-Fu Yu. Together, the artists used bamboo, metal, and gemstones to explore the interplay of form, texture, and light, reflecting the brand’s foundational artistic pillars. The event served as a perfect stage to celebrate the new collection's technical precision and structural aesthetics.
To discover the 20th anniversary feather brooches and explore the world of Cindy Chao The Art Jewel, make a private appointment by emailing info@cindychao.com
Credits
Images: Cindy Chao
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Annabel Tan is the Editor of Watches and Jewellery at Tatler Singapore, where she covers all things luxury timepieces and fine jewellery across both print and digital platforms. She is also the Editor of Tatler GMT Singapore, a role that deepens her fascination with the ever-evolving world of watchmaking. Outside of work, she’s usually on the hunt for her next favourite watch that she can’t afford, planning her next beach getaway, or catching up on the latest Formula 1 race.
