Cover Chaumet has become so masterful in its craft that even the renowned Louvre museum calls on their expertise to restore jewellery
Chaumet has become so masterful in its craft that even the renowned Louvre museum calls on their expertise to restore jewellery
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Chaumet, France’s most prestigious jewellery maison, has earned a reputation as a true master in its field, so much so that the famous Louvre museum entrusts them with restoring its jewellery.
If every luxury brand were to document its own “lore”, its history and captivating stories, then the tome titled Chaumet would surely be the thickest. Number 12 Place Vendôme, Paris, is home not only to the maison’s headquarters, boutique, salons and high jewellery department, but also to a vast library comprising some 66,000 drawings, 36,000 prints, 360 jewellery designs, 800 prototypes, and 500 nickel replicas of tiaras. Founded in the late 18th century, this trove, if laid out horizontally, would stretch nearly 600 metres, twice the height of the Eiffel Tower.
Read more: The first Asian man to take the lead at LVMH: Charles Leung and the art of leadership at Chaumet
Above If every luxury brand were to document its own “lore”, its history and captivating stories, then the tome titled Chaumet would surely be the thickest
If every luxury brand were to document its own “lore”, its history and captivating stories, then the tome titled Chaumet would surely be the thickest
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To preserve this legacy beyond the pages, thirteen generations of Chaumet workshop managers, along with some of the world’s finest artisans, have painstakingly passed down their savoir-faire over centuries. This tradition of craftsmanship stands as a testament to the nearby cathedral of art just a kilometre from Chaumet’s headquarters: the Louvre.
Above Thirteen generations of Chaumet workshop managers, along with some of the world’s finest artisans, have painstakingly passed down their savoir-faire over centuries
Thirteen generations of Chaumet workshop managers, along with some of the world’s finest artisans, have painstakingly passed down their savoir-faire over centuries
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“Whenever the Louvre encounters issues with its antique jewellery collection, it sends pieces to Chaumet for restoration, even if they weren’t originally created by us. As the oldest jeweller, we possess the traditional techniques and deep knowledge of how 18th-century jewellery was made, and how to restore it to its original glory,” explained Charles Leung, CEO of Chaumet.
Revealing a glimpse of the “secrets” unfolding daily behind the green gates of 12 Vendôme, this article explores the three most iconic jewellery techniques of the maison: pear-shaped diamonds, fil-couteau, and trompe l’œil.
Pear-shaped diamond
The pear-shape is less a technique than a motif. Yet, when discussing Chaumet, diamonds inevitably come to mind, and when mentioning Chaumet diamonds, the pear-shape and Joséphine collection are essential. This shape, so meticulous, refined and classic, could be considered an unofficial manufacturing secret of the Vendôme maison.
Above The pear-shape is less a technique than a motif
The pear-shape is less a technique than a motif
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Chaumet’s pear-shaped diamonds are selected and polished to an exceptionally rare standard. Only stones meeting the four GIA criteria (4Cs) are accepted. Central stones must be colour D, E, or F and recut to a ratio between 1.48 and 1.58: Chaumet’s own “golden ratio” of harmony, proudly called the “fifth C” alongside the GIA’s four.
Above This style was particularly favoured by Queen Joséphine, the first wife of Emperor Napoléon Bonaparte
This style was particularly favoured by Queen Joséphine, the first wife of Emperor Napoléon Bonaparte
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This style was particularly favoured by Queen Joséphine, the first wife of Emperor Napoléon Bonaparte. To honour their “first muse”, Chaumet named this sparkling pear-shaped diamond collection Joséphine. Over time, the pear-shape and Joséphine line have become elegant, bold symbols of the maison.
Fil-couteau technique
Fil-couteau is a technique that renders jewellery frames as thin as possible, almost invisible beneath the dazzling light of diamonds and precious stones. Specifically, a very fine metal bridge connects two parts of the jewellery, lending a light, airy feel while remaining securely attached.
Above Fil-couteau is a technique that renders jewellery frames as thin as possible
Fil-couteau is a technique that renders jewellery frames as thin as possible
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This method adds a unique versatility to designs featuring movement, such as the diamond “drops” hanging from some Joséphine earrings and necklaces.
Read more: Why do people still buy gold even though they live in the digital age?
Above The new Jewels by Nature high jewellery collection employs fil-couteau to make seven Mozambique rubies
The new Jewels by Nature high jewellery collection employs fil-couteau to make seven Mozambique rubies
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The new Jewels by Nature high jewellery collection employs fil-couteau to make seven Mozambique rubies, totalling 14.03 carats, appear to float above the diamond streams of the Sword Lily necklace.
Trompe-l’œil technique
More creative and ethereal, Chaumet developed a third distinctive technique called trompe-l'œil, French for “optical illusion”, inspired by the iconic pear or teardrop shape.
In essence, this “magic trick” groups multiple brilliant-cut diamonds into a cluster resembling a single large pear-shaped diamond. According to the maison, trompe-l’œil is a variation of grain-setting and takes inspiration from Chaumet’s most famous tiara shape: the Bourbon-Parme. It features prominently in the Chaumet catalogue, especially within the Joséphine collection.
Above Chaumet developed a third distinctive technique called trompe-l'œil, French for “optical illusion”
Chaumet developed a third distinctive technique called trompe-l'œil, French for “optical illusion”
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The Joséphine Ronde d’Aigrettes appear to be crafted from a continuous band of pear-shaped diamonds. That’s the brilliance of Chaumet’s trompe-l’œil: in fact, the design is made up of numerous brilliant-cut diamonds.
Above To celebrate this unique technique, the maison introduced the Pearlescent trompe-l’œil necklace in 2024
To celebrate this unique technique, the maison introduced the Pearlescent trompe-l’œil necklace in 2024
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To celebrate this unique technique, the maison introduced the Pearlescent trompe-l’œil necklace in 2024, part of the Chaumet en Scène high jewellery collection. The large, brilliant diamonds paired with button pearls form an exaggerated yet classic pear-shape detail.
Credits
Images: Chaumet
