Cover Bvlgari Bvlgari Tubogas watch and Tubogas choker in yellow gold

Bvlgari’s debut Tubogas jewellery collection reimagines a classic technique with 16 stunning creations

The Tubogas technique has become almost synonymous with Bvlgari’s famous Serpenti motif. The two are often seen together, perhaps most recognisably as striking timepieces, with their metal linked bodies coiling around the wrist and the head of the serpent displaying the time. This was in fact the original purpose of the Tubogas—to enable the creation of a supple bracelet that serves as the base of the Serpenti watch. 

With a rich history dating back to 1948, when it was first employed to create the bracelet for the now iconic Serpenti watch, the revolutionary technique of metalworking was inspired by and named after gas pipes used to transport pressurised gas in the 1920s. It allows for more flexibility and suppleness on the bracelet without affecting its structural integrity by wrapping strips of gold around a coiled spring without soldering. These interlocking metal strips are meticulously crafted to form a continuous, flowing shape, like a slithering serpent, that not only enhances comfort around a wrist or neck, but also allows for a lightweight feel, making the pieces suitable for everyday wear.

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Above Japanese actress and Bvlgari brand ambassador Hikari Mori wearing a Bvlgari Bvlgari Tubogas watch and a diamond‑studded Tubogas choker in yellow gold

This unique blend of functionality and aesthetics captures the spirit of industrial design that flourished in post‑war Europe, and by the 1970s, the Tubogas had evolved into a cultural phenomenon, celebrated for its modernity and Italian flair. Over the years, the artisans at Bvlgari have continued to employ traditional methods while also embracing innovative approaches, pushing the boundaries of what can be achieved with this special technique.

Now, more than 75 years later, Bvlgari continues to celebrate the Tubogas with a new jewellery collection that redefines elegance through its masterful and predominant use of yellow gold, a signature material for the Roman jeweller since the late 1940s. Comprising 16 polished creations, it pays homage to and revitalises Bvlgari’s storied history; merging classic craftsmanship with a fresh, avant‑garde approach.

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Above Mori wearing a Tubogas choker in rose gold set with a rubellite, pavé diamonds and geometric hard stone inserts, as well as a diamond‑set Tubogas yellow gold cuff and two Tubogas bracelets in yellow gold, with and without diamonds

An icon with many faces

From more minimalist designs to pieces adorned with vibrant gemstones or iconic Bvlgari motifs, this debut Tubogas jewellery collection showcases the versatility and wearability of the technique by seamlessly integrating some of the brand’s most unique and recognisable aesthetic codes.

This is apparent in the various distinctive Tubogas wrist candy, all designed to be worn alone or stacked, allowing for personal expression and style versatility. For starters, there are two yellow gold bracelets, one sans embellishments—but in no way plain—and the other, studded with diamonds for a bit more dazzle. Then there is the tri‑colour bracelet with yellow, white and rose gold links that reads contemporary and edgy.

Wrapping up the wrist offerings are two cuffs bearing other Bvlgari signatures: the Parentesi motif, seen on some of the Tubogas creations from the 1970s, and the beloved Serpenti. The former, inspired by Roman pavements, appears as an elegant detail at either end of a yellow gold cuff and is set with brilliant‑cut diamonds for an extra touch of preciousness. The mythical snake, meanwhile, lends its form and charm to the Serpenti Tubogas cuff in yellow gold, its body—glittering with swirls of demi pavé diamonds that also cover one side of its head—coiling twice around the wrist.

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Above The new Bvlgari Tubogas bracelets and cuff, which are versatile enough to be worn alone or stacked

All the bracelets and cuffs can be partnered with matching pieces that sweeten the neckline. Complement, for example, the yellow gold bracelets with one of two yellow gold chokers, one similarly minimalist and the other, studded with diamonds. Or mix and match with the Tubogas choker featuring diamond‑set Parentesi motifs interspersed among yellow gold links, or the super‑sleek Serpenti Tubogas yellow gold necklace, featuring a serpent’s body wrapped twice around the neck, with its head resting on its tail and sitting comfortably in the hollow of the throat. The latter comes in two versions: one is adorned with demi pavé diamonds on the snake’s head and the tip of its tail, while the other has the sparklers on its body as well. There is also a matching Serpenti Tubogas yellow gold ring.

Offering up a different and unexpected spin on the Tubogas is a chain necklace with a central Tubogas element. Fully crafted in yellow gold, this understated piece is a versatile everyday accessory that looks great whether worn alone or layered with other necklaces. Beautiful in its simplicity, a bulbous ring in yellow gold is another example. Some of these pieces also come in rose gold, available exclusively in Greater China.

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Above Mori wearing a Tubogas choker and matching cuff, both in yellow gold and featuring diamond‑set Parentesi motifs, and a Tubogas bracelet in yellow gold

In with the new

Jewellery aficionados who know and love Bvlgari for its prowess in coloured gems will be pleased to find that the Roman jeweller has infused this stylistic signature into the new Tubogas collection. Cue three glamorous chokers each anchored by a vibrant‑coloured stone at the centre—green tourmaline on the yellow gold version, and a tanzanite and a rubellite on the two rose gold ones. These focal gems are each framed by pavé diamonds and geometric hard stone inserts, creating a striking contrast.

The Tubogas technique is done slightly differently here, with the bands taking on a unique triangular shape for added volume and sophistication. This gives the pieces a slightly more angular yet still soft and sinuous look. To achieve this, Bvlgari’s master artisans have once again stretched the boundaries of their expertise, boldly reinterpreting a traditional technique through a fresh and innovative lens.

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Above The Tubogas chokers and bracelets are available with or without diamonds
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Above Tanzanite, rubellite and green tourmaline bring Bvlgari’s signature vibrance to these Tubogas chokers

Alongside these Tubogas jewellery pieces, Bvlgari has unveiled the new Bvlgari Bvlgari Tubogas watch. For the first time, the Tubogas technique appears on a timepiece that is not a Serpenti and is instead married with a different icon of the brand.

Certainly a statement piece, it features the Tubogas bracelet with a yellow gold Bvlgari Bvlgari case, marked with the signature double‑logo engraving inspired by the inscriptions on ancient Roman coins. The watch is also a testament to Bvlgari’s dual identity as a jeweller and a watchmaker, showcasing both Italian elegance and functionality.

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Above Bvlgari Bvlgari Tubogas watch

Grand debut

For the launch of this new Tubogas jewellery collection, Bvlgari worked with French visual artist Julien Vallon to photograph the pieces as part of the stunning Bvlgari Icon campaign. The visuals beautifully capture the harmonious interplay between the Tubogas jewels and their wearers. A dynamic exploration of perspectives enhances the flowing design and remarkable flexibility of Bvlgari’s iconic mesh, highlighting its tactile comfort and sense of perpetual movement.

To convey the intrinsic suppleness of the Tubogas in striking imagery, Bvlgari engaged professional dancers, whose movements echo the fluidity of the Tubogas design, emphasising the jewellery collection’s sensorial comfort and dynamic nature. Their poses appear to have no beginning or end, mirroring the infinite spirals of the Tubogas.

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Above Tubogas bracelet with yellow, rose and white gold links
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Above The Tubogas chain necklace is a more understated way to wear the iconic design
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The campaign is further brought to life by Japanese actress and Bvlgari brand ambassador Hikari Mori, whose captivating beauty and vibrant personality reflect the collection’s eclectic and versatile spirit. In the series of images, she wears a range of the new designs, from the simple to the gem‑set, including the Bvlgari Bvlgari Tubogas watch.

Highlighting the innovative spirit of the Tubogas line, the jewellery collection launched in New York this September at Bvlgari Studio, a platform dedicated to contemporary artistic collaborations. The event was held at The Refinery at Domino in Williamsburg, the city’s most creative and vibrant neighbourhood, where Bvlgari invited artists to reinterpret the iconic features of the Tubogas jewellery collection through their unique perspectives.

With its versatility and elegance, the new Bvlgari Tubogas jewellery collection is a testament to the Roman jeweller’s enduring legacy and innovative spirit. As Bvlgari embarks on this new chapter, the Tubogas remains a timeless icon that will continue to pave the way for future innovations in luxury jewellery.

Credits

Images: Bvlgari

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Annabel Tan
Editor, Watches and Jewellery, Tatler Singapore
Tatler Asia

Annabel Tan is the Editor of Watches and Jewellery at Tatler Singapore, where she covers all things luxury timepieces and fine jewellery across both print and digital platforms. She is also the Editor of Tatler GMT Singapore, a role that deepens her fascination with the ever-evolving world of watchmaking. Outside of work, she’s usually on the hunt for her next favourite watch that she can’t afford, planning her next beach getaway, or catching up on the latest Formula 1 race.