Cover The presentation of Gucci’s Allegoria high jewellery collection was held at the Gucci Archive housed within Palazzo Settimanni in Florence, Italy (Photo: Gucci)
The presentation of Gucci’s Allegoria high jewellery collection was held at the Gucci Archive housed within Palazzo Settimanni in Florence, Italy (Photo: Gucci)
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Gucci’s latest high jewellery collection, Allegoria, is a whimsical ode to nature’s ephemeral beauty
Change is life’s only constant. A beautiful, enduring reminder of this is how time passes to the rhythm of nature’s ever‑changing seasons. Each one is ephemeral—spring brings with it the promise of new beginnings, then beckons the vibrance of summer, which mellows into the cosy embrace of autumn before settling into the calm of winter—and the cycle repeats itself continually.
Gucci has captured the allegory of nature’s poetic transformations and transitions in its latest high jewellery collection, Allegoria. It was unveiled earlier this June to a select group of media, including Tatler Singapore, and VIPs in its birthplace of Florence. The house presents a kaleidoscopic collection—where the audacious use of precious stones in bold hues, alongside fun colour combinations in unique and unexpected designs represent the four seasons, fully showcasing Gucci’s unending creativity and savoir faire.
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Above Gucci Allegoria necklace in yellow gold set with a 226‑carat cushion‑cut green tourmaline, fancy tourmalines, diamonds and enamel (Photo: Gucci)
Gucci Allegoria necklace in yellow gold set with a 226‑carat cushion‑cut green tourmaline, fancy tourmalines, diamonds and enamel (Photo: Gucci)
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Like a breath of fresh air, the journey through Allegoria commences with spring, a time of wonderment and surprise. The delicate blossoms of Gucci’s iconic Flora motif find new life in the form of a resplendent necklace adorned with a jaw‑dropping 226‑carat cushion‑cut green tourmaline. As if kissed by the first rays of the sun, the tourmaline is cradled by meticulously crafted openwork metal that allows more light to pass through, studded with star motifs and dazzling baguette diamonds.
The necklace is further elevated by a long chain adorned with fancy‑coloured tourmalines and diamonds, creating a luminous chromatic spectrum. It is certainly not a jewel for the faint of heart. For the runway presentation of Allegoria, this necklace was styled in equally bold fashion: worn backwards, where the feature tourmaline lay on the small of the model’s bare back.
Above Gucci Allegoria necklace in yellow gold set with a 161‑carat cushion‑cut pink tourmaline, fancy tourmalines, diamonds and enamel (Photo: Gucci)
Gucci Allegoria necklace in yellow gold set with a 161‑carat cushion‑cut pink tourmaline, fancy tourmalines, diamonds and enamel (Photo: Gucci)
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Another stunning necklace inspired by spring sings with a 161‑carat cushion‑cut pink tourmaline encircled by multiple levels of diamonds and coloured enamel, set on a chain bursting with 72 fancy tourmalines totalling 88 carats, which create a spectacular chromatic degradé.
With the arrival of summer, nature shows its most splendid side in a symphony of saturated hues. Here, vibrant emeralds, spinels and Paraiba tourmalines take centre stage, mirroring the intensity of the sun’s embrace. Throughout the Allegoria collection, Gucci pulls off unconventional gemstone combinations and daring cuts such as the fan, briolette, paisley and kite shapes, which work especially well in expressing the exuberance of nature in summer.
Of note is a pair of jacket earrings designed around two jaunty, fan‑shaped emeralds totalling 18 carats, from a mesh of diamonds, with different‑coloured tourmalines cascade, gracing the tip of every alternate strand. Paisley diamonds on another pair of earrings hang like leaves on a vine from two emeralds, bookended by Paraiba tourmalines.
Above Gucci Allegoria earrings in white gold set with emeralds totalling 18 carats, diamonds and tourmalines (Photo: Gucci)
Above Gucci Allegoria earrings in white gold set with Paraiba tourmalines, emeralds and diamonds (Photo: Gucci)
Gucci Allegoria earrings in white gold set with emeralds totalling 18 carats, diamonds and tourmalines (Photo: Gucci)
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In addition to expressing its big and bold personality here, Gucci has incorporated some of its iconic motifs such as the lion’s head, which features in some summer-inspired rings, earrings and bracelets. This symbol of authority and command can also be found throughout the Allegoria collection, along with other emblems synonymous with the maison, such as the horsebit, which appears in a few necklaces and evokes the house’s equestrian heritage.
As autumn sets in, a delicate transformation unfolds, mirroring nature’s gentle preparation for rest. The soft, warm tones of yellow sapphires, pink tourmalines and mandarin garnets evoke a sense of serenity. A standout in this chapter is the necklace anchored by a radiant 78‑carat yellow sapphire, and features an array of tourmalines and diamonds, creating a harmonious blend of colours. The elegance of the season is also encapsulated in a vintage‑inspired yellow gold bracelet adorned with mandarin garnets in various cuts set off by diamonds.
Gucci Allegoria Lionhead bracelet in white gold set with fancy tourmalines and diamonds (Photo: Gucci)
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Winter brings with it a certain tranquillity, akin to the stillness of snow‑covered landscapes. A sophisticated necklace dotted with milky, iridescent flower‑carved opals captures the essence of the season’s hushed beauty. Its central 10‑carat antique European‑cut diamond lends a precious vintage allure to the collection, evoking a time when gemstones were cut by hand and their larger facets, cleaved in candlelight.
Created primarily from 1890 to 1930, European cuts characterised the Art Deco period and are known to precede the round brilliant cut so prevalent today. The old European‑cut diamond on this necklace not only calls to mind the romance of yesteryear, but also twinkles with kaleidoscopic hues, hinting at the exuberance of impending spring. A pair of matching earrings featuring two European‑cut diamonds encircled by flower‑cut opals, as well as paisley diamonds exude a timeless elegance that bridges the past and the present.
With Gucci’s Allegoria, nature’s fleeting beauty finds a lasting testament in each carefully created masterpiece, capturing the essence of the seasons in an eternal dance of colour, light and emotion. As the cycle of life continues, Gucci’s homage to nature’s enduring elegance unfolds in this symphony of jewels that will transcend time itself.
Annabel Tan is the Editor of Watches and Jewellery at Tatler Singapore, where she covers all things luxury timepieces and fine jewellery across both print and digital platforms. She is also the Editor of Tatler GMT Singapore, a role that deepens her fascination with the ever-evolving world of watchmaking. Outside of work, she’s usually on the hunt for her next favourite watch that she can’t afford, planning her next beach getaway, or catching up on the latest Formula 1 race.
