Cover Alexa Abitbol of Cartier High Jewellery Workshops
Alexa Abitbol of Cartier High Jewellery Workshops
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The hidden world of Cartier’s workshops is where Alexa Abitbol and her team of artisans bring alluring creations to life
In the heart of Paris, tucked away in a discreet building, artisans come together to create the extraordinary jewels that define Cartier’s legacy. This is the sacred sanctuary of Cartier’s high jewellery workshops where masterpieces are born from the meticulous hands of its artisans.
Orchestrating this is Alexa Abitbol, director of Cartier High Jewellery Workshops, who is driven by a desire to understand and be close to the products she works with. She transitioned into the world of luxury jewellery from an industrial background in the automotive industry.
Read more: Cartier celebrates the centennial anniversary of its first design icon—the Trinity ring
“When Cartier called me, it was evident to me that I should work for this maison,” she says, recalling the excitement she felt over a decade ago when she first joined Cartier. Her grandfather’s influence, a watchmaker and jeweller, set the stage for her passion.
Above Cartier Nature
Sauvage Amphista necklace
in white gold, emeralds, and
diamonds
Above Inside the Cartier
workshop in Paris
Cartier Nature Sauvage Amphista necklace in white gold, emeralds, and diamonds
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With a background in engineering and a love for traditional craftsmanship, Abitbol immersed herself in the technical aspects of jewellery making when she joined Cartier, even attending evening classes at a renowned public school in France to learn the craft. “I spent two years trying to learn about jewellery and how to do it,” she explains. “I passed my exam to become a jeweller, but I still cannot make a ring!” Despite her modesty, her deep understanding of the craft reflects an ambition to bridge the gap between innovation and heritage.
She oversees all the skilled artisans at Cartier’s workshops—each one a master in their own right—who work in harmony to create pieces that push the boundaries in haute joaillerie. These are jewellers, setters, polishers and watchmakers with over ten different specialties, representing the backbone of Cartier’s high jewellery collections, such as the majestic Nature Sauvage revealed in May 2024—a collection that is a powerful expression of the maison’s ability to blend the figurative with the abstract. It’s a vivid theatre of apparitions where precious animals roam: a visual game of hide-and-seek where bejewelled creatures appear where you least expect them.
See also: In Pictures: Cartier and Tatler Malaysia present the Grain de Café Collection
To achieve this, the creative process sweeps through a gamut of various craftsman expertise: from sculptors who transform two-dimensional designs into lifelike three-dimensional pieces, to polishers who ensure every tiny hole for diamonds is polished to perfection. The journey of each piece is a testament to the maison’s commitment to excellence. “We have more than 200 artisans with all the craftsmanship gathered in jewellery,” Abitbol shares.
“They include those working on the structure of the jewel, setters, polishers, lapidaries, watchmakers, and even glypticians who grade and carve the stones.
“We use technology when it’s necessary,” Abitbol states. “For example, in the Hydrotherapy watches, precision is crucial, and technology helps us achieve that.” With an eye on innovation, the key for the maison, Abitbol shares, is to ensure that the human touch remains central to its creations. “Handmade is great, but there are some imperfections in the handmade. It’s these imperfections that create the emotion because it’s human,” she emphasises.
Above Model in Cartier Nature Sauvage
necklace
Above Cartier Panthère Evanescente
necklace with a central medallion composed
of three layers of glass which, once aligned,
reveals the previously imperceptible profile
of the feline
Model in Cartier Nature Sauvage necklace
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This ideology is evident in pieces like the Panthère necklace, a striking creation that required over 3,000 hours of precision work. “The sculptor’s challenge was to interpret the designer’s intention and create a realistic panther emerging from a sea of iced water,” Abitbol explains. Each artisan, from the jeweller to the polisher, must honour this original vision to ensure that the final piece exudes the appropriate movement and realism. “The designer gives us a lot of indications by using the shadows. So, the sculptor used them and used his discussion with the designer to try to create a panther that is very realistic, in movement.”
Creating such intricate and unique pieces is not an easy feat. Every piece is, in essence, a prototype, presenting new technical and creative challenges. This is where Abitbol’s team of artisans shines. “Every piece has a specific challenge, but this is what makes our work so fascinating,” Abitbol says. She describes the innovative locket featuring three superimposed glasses that, when aligned correctly, reveal a hidden panther. This piece alone exhibits the maison’s dedication to pushing the boundaries of jewellery design.
Don’t miss: Cartier champions ancestral techniques through watchmaking
For Abitbol, the most fulfilling aspect of her role is seeing the transformation from raw materials to finished masterpieces. “Every day is a reward because every day we see pieces coming together from 1,000 little elements into one necklace. It’s magical,” she reflects.
The sense of achievement is shared among the artisans, who take immense pride in their work. Overseeing these workshops is more than just a job for Abitbol—it’s a passion. “When I look at my job, I’m always convinced that I have the best one in the world,” she says.
Above Sketch of Cartier Nature Sauvage
Panthère Jaillissante bracelet/ring
Above Model
wearing the Panthère Jaillissante
Sketch of Cartier Nature Sauvage Panthère Jaillissante bracelet/ring
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Cartier’s savoir-faire extends to nurturing the next generation of artisans. The maison receives numerous apprentices each year, ensuring that experienced craftsmen dedicate time to pass on their skills. “We work with schools to develop new programmes, like the apprenticeship programme in polishing,” Abitbol explains. This dedication to education and training is crucial in maintaining the high standards of Cartier’s creations.
In addition to technical training, Cartier also fosters creativity among its artisans. “We propose [our artisans to visit] exhibitions, often on architecture or nature, to widen their environment and inspire them,” Abitbol says. This holistic approach ensures that Cartier’s artisans are not only skilled but also creatively fulfilled, able to draw inspiration from a variety of sources.
Read more: Cartier Women’s Initiative 2024: Meet the inspiring women impact entrepreneurs driving global change
And this is evident in every piece created with the artisans’ expertise and creativity shining through—each creation a timeless work of art. Each piece tells a story not just of luxury and beauty, but of the incredible human skill and dedication that goes into its creation. It’s a testament to the enduring power of craftsmanship in an increasingly automated world. “The savoir-faire for me is the sum of all these acquired competencies, technical competencies, probably added also to a sense of aesthetic sensitivity, and all this linked to a very high level of expectation in terms of quality of realisation,” Abitbol explains.
Above Cartier
Nature Sauvage
Mochelys necklace/
brooch in rose gold,
rubellites, diamonds
Above Cartier Nature Sauvage
Alae necklace in
white gold, onyx,
diamonds
Cartier Nature Sauvage Mochelys necklace/ brooch in rose gold, rubellites, diamonds
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As Cartier continues to create exquisite jewellery that charms the world, the artisans behind the scenes remain the hidden heroes and it’s clear their dedication, skill, and passion are the essence of the maison’s success. With Abitbol’s leadership and delicate balance of tradition and innovation, it’s a savvy way forward to ensure that Cartier’s legacy of excellence endures, one masterpiece at a time.
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Images: Cartier
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Lynette loves travelling and dancing to Latin music almost as much as she enjoys period films and pastry desserts. She is constantly in search of the perfect nude lipstick and finds her best ideas through walks in nature.
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As the Editor-in-Chief of Tatler Malaysia, Lynette leads the content teams for print, digital and social media platforms of the brand. She has over 20 years experience in media, having been editorial director and editor-in-chief for lifestyle titles such as Cleo, ELLE, Esquire, Men’s Health, and Women’s Health.
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