PARIS, FRANCE - JULY 05: Virgil Abloh is seen wearing tie and suit, white button shirt, sunglasses outside Louis Vuitton Parfum Hosts Dinner at Fondation Louis Vuitton on July 05, 2021 in Paris, France. (Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images)
Cover Virgil Abloh (Photo: Christian Vierig/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JULY 05: Virgil Abloh is seen wearing tie and suit, white button shirt, sunglasses outside Louis Vuitton Parfum Hosts Dinner at Fondation Louis Vuitton on July 05, 2021 in Paris, France. (Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images)

路易威登(Louis Vuitton)的男裝總監Virgil Abloh於上個月不敵癌症,不幸離世,由誰接任他的位子自然是各界關注的話題。

當 Virgil Abloh 抗癌失敗的消息公佈時,不少人為他的離世感到惋惜,當時,正式他事業的全盛時期,並在 Louis Vuitton 重塑了男裝系列, Abloh 創造了非常鮮明、新穎的街頭服飾風格,嘗試了不同的顏色、剪裁等元素,甚至將陽剛與陰柔的設計完美融合,這個新方向受到不同客群的歡迎,這也引發了一個問題:接下來誰將承接這個角色?

延伸閱讀:快訊/鬼才黑人設計師Virgil Abloh去世!引領Louis Vuitton、Off-White私下秘密抗癌多年

法國時裝屋和時尚界仍對 Abloh 的離去感到不捨,他是一位有遠見的人,將有色人種設計師帶入了一個競爭激烈的行業,難以想像另一位創意人如何達到各界的期許。

Daniel Lee

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LONDON, ENGLAND - DECEMBER 02:  Daniel Lee accepts the Accessories Designer of the Year award on behalf of Bottega Veneta  during The Fashion Awards 2019 held at Royal Albert Hall on December 02, 2019 in London, England. (Photo by Lia Toby/BFC/Getty Images)
Above Daniel Lee(照片:Lia Toby/BFC/Getty Images)
LONDON, ENGLAND - DECEMBER 02:  Daniel Lee accepts the Accessories Designer of the Year award on behalf of Bottega Veneta  during The Fashion Awards 2019 held at Royal Albert Hall on December 02, 2019 in London, England. (Photo by Lia Toby/BFC/Getty Images)

Daniel Lee 剛剛離開 Bottega Veneta,尚不清楚這位頗具影響力的設計師下一步計畫,但誰敢保證路易威登不會是他的下一步呢?和 Abloh 一樣,Daniel Lee 了解年輕一代想要什麼(畢竟他自己還這麼年輕),以及如何為高端設計帶來潮流和休閒的元素。

近年來,Lee 推出了一些乾淨和創新的設計,Cloud 和 Cassette 包將 Bottega Veneta 為他在品牌的三年中的主要作品。

延伸閱讀:The Fashion Awards 2021|時尚界集體哀悼Virgil Abloh「這個夜晚屬於他」

Kerby Jean Raymond

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NEW YORK, NEW YORK - SEPTEMBER 13: Kerby Jean-Raymond attends 2021 Costume Institute Benefit - In America: A Lexicon of Fashion at the Metropolitan Museum of Art on September 13, 2021 in New York City. (Photo by Sean Zanni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
Above Kerby Jean Raymond(照片:Sean Zanni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
NEW YORK, NEW YORK - SEPTEMBER 13: Kerby Jean-Raymond attends 2021 Costume Institute Benefit - In America: A Lexicon of Fashion at the Metropolitan Museum of Art on September 13, 2021 in New York City. (Photo by Sean Zanni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)

Kerby Jean Raymond 是一位著名的黑人設計師,其品牌 Pyer Moss 採用了非裔美國人文化特色,他延續 Abloh 為路易威登帶來的東西是一個自然而然的選擇。作為 CFDA(美國時裝設計師委員會)的董事會成員,Raymond 認可年輕人才,並希望將新設計師引入奢侈品牌。

Raymond 非常注重將街頭服飾與精緻相結合,早在 2019 年,Abloh 就因其品牌 Off-White 模仿 Raymond 的黃色雨衣造型而被時尚界點名,Raymond 在一條現已刪除的推文中解決了這個問題,但相似之處表明這兩位設計師某些理念的契合。

Emily Adams Bode

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WEST HOLLYWOOD, CALIFORNIA - NOVEMBER 18: Emily Adams Bode attends the GQ Men of the Year Celebration at The West Hollywood EDITION on November 18, 2021 in West Hollywood, California. (Photo by Rodin Eckenroth/Getty Images)
Above Emily Adams Bode(照片:Rodin Eckenroth/Getty Images)
WEST HOLLYWOOD, CALIFORNIA - NOVEMBER 18: Emily Adams Bode attends the GQ Men of the Year Celebration at The West Hollywood EDITION on November 18, 2021 in West Hollywood, California. (Photo by Rodin Eckenroth/Getty Images)

路易威登在歡迎 Abloh 成為該品牌第一位黑人創意總監時,創造了歷史,所以如果它要繼續突破界限,為什麼不聘請第一位女性擔任男裝創意總監呢? Emily Adams Bode 今年獲得了美國男裝設計師 CDFA 時尚獎,她在創立自己的品牌 Bode 的才華得到了認可。

Bode 運用色彩、面料並賦予經典款式現代升級,類似於 Abloh,為男裝帶來有趣元素,並重新定義品牌標識的界限,自己涉足方格圖騰,我們很想看到她對傳統的路易威登 Damier 的看法。

Grace Wales Bonner

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LONDON, ENGLAND - MAY 01: Winner of the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund, Grace Wales Bonner (C) at BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund announcement lunch on May 01, 2019 in London, United Kingdom. (Photo by Darren Gerrish/WireImage for Vogue)
Above Grace Wales Bonner(照片:Rodin Eckenroth/Getty Images)
LONDON, ENGLAND - MAY 01: Winner of the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund, Grace Wales Bonner (C) at BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund announcement lunch on May 01, 2019 in London, United Kingdom. (Photo by Darren Gerrish/WireImage for Vogue)

Grace Wales Bonner 是另一個獲得 CFDA 認可的女性,今年獲得了國際男裝設計師獎,此外還獲得了其他獎項,包括 2015 年英國新興男裝設計師時裝獎和 2016 年 LVMH 青年設計師獎,另外,她還應 Maria Chiuri Grazia 之邀,與 Dior Resort 2020 系列合作,因此她在 LVMH 有一定的地位。

她的品牌 Wales Bonner 在量身訂製的運動裝和非裔歐洲奢華理念的迭代中解決了身份、性取向和種族的問題,不管她是否被認為太年輕,路易威登都能捕捉到 Bonner 展示的年輕和多元文化設計的時代精神。

Edvin Thompson

Tatler Asia
NEW YORK, NEW YORK - SEPTEMBER 09: Designer Edvin Thompson poses during a presentation for Theophilio during NYFW: The Shows at Showroom at Spring Studios on September 09, 2021 in New York City. (Photo by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows)
Above Edvin Thompson (Photo: Frazer Harrison/Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows)
NEW YORK, NEW YORK - SEPTEMBER 09: Designer Edvin Thompson poses during a presentation for Theophilio during NYFW: The Shows at Showroom at Spring Studios on September 09, 2021 in New York City. (Photo by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows)

Theophilio 的 Edvin Thompson 是另一位模糊文化和性別界限的設計師。在 CFDA 頒獎典禮上將年度新興美國設計師帶回家,他正在邁向成功之路,就像 Abloh 在路易威登之前一樣。

Thompson 設計男裝和女裝,將他的牙買加根源融入到他的作品中,其中包含牙買加故鄉相關的印花、顏色還是款式。他有很多機會嘗試不分性別的款式,我們很想知道 Thompson 是否會像 Abloh 那樣將其帶到路易威登。

 

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Hayley Yu
Digital and Social Media Managing Editor, Tatler Hong Kong
Tatler Asia
Hayley Yu

"Hayley Yu is a Digital and Social Media Managing Editor at Tatler Asia who is keen to cover sustainability, travel and beauty topics. Please do not hesitate to drop her a message if you have something new or fascinating related to these topics."

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