American designer Halston and the "Halstonettes" attend Ninth Annual Diana Vreeland Costume Exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City, 1980 (Photo: Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
Cover American designer Halston and the “Halstonettes” attend the Ninth Annual Diana Vreeland Costume Exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City, 1980 (Photo: Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
American designer Halston and the "Halstonettes" attend Ninth Annual Diana Vreeland Costume Exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City, 1980 (Photo: Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)

Roy Halston Frowick, the late pioneering American designer, would have turned 93 years old today

Roy Halston Frowick—known simply as Halston—was a force who shaped American fashion. His aesthetic was governed by a no-frills attitude and a flair for turning simplicity into high drama. Halston rebranded minimalism as the height of glamour and his designs became synonymous with the hedonistic energy of 1970s New York City nightlife. 

He also proved himself to be a savvy businessman and is credited with ‘democratising’ high fashion decades before it became the norm. On what would have been his 93rd birthday, we look back at how Halston transformed American fashion into a global powerhouse and the legacy he left behind. 

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His eye for fabric and construction

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Models Karen Bjornson, Connie Cook, Carla Araque, Nancy Grigor, and Pat Cleveland in ombre chiffon dresses from Halston's Spring 1979 Made-to-Order Collection (Photo: Getty Images)
Above Models Karen Bjornson, Connie Cook, Carla Araque, Nancy Grigor, and Pat Cleveland in ombre chiffon dresses from Halston’s Spring 1979 Made-to-Order Collection (Photo: Getty Images)
Models Karen Bjornson, Connie Cook, Carla Araque, Nancy Grigor, and Pat Cleveland in ombre chiffon dresses from Halston's Spring 1979 Made-to-Order Collection (Photo: Getty Images)

Halston moved beyond American fashion’s usual focus on convenience and practicality and introduced sculptural designers shaped by pleating, draping and bias cuts. His innovative use of jersey, cashmere, and ultrasuede brought a fluid sensuality to trademark pieces like shirtdresses, caftans and coats.

His minimalist glamour

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American fashion designer Halston and American model Marisa Berenson (Photo: Ellen Graham/Getty Images)
Above American fashion designer Halston and American model Marisa Berenson (Photo: Ellen Graham/Getty Images)
American fashion designer Halston and American model Marisa Berenson (Photo: Ellen Graham/Getty Images)

He championed a no-frills approach to design, stripping away anything that didn’t serve a purpose. He eliminated “bows that didn’t tie, buttons that didn’t button, and zippers that didn’t zip,” focusing instead on clean lines and functionality. His work prioritised the power of constraint, to let form and fabric speak for themselves.

See also: Meet the emerging fashion designers poised to become household names

His celebrated styles

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Halston - Couture Fall 1981 Advance (Photo: Getty Images)
Above Halston - Couture Fall 1981 Advance (Photo: Getty Images)
Halston - Couture Fall 1981 Advance (Photo: Getty Images)

Halston is known for his timeless silhouettes, transforming jumpsuits and caftans into icons of modern American style. He also introduced the halter neck dress and championed trousers for women.

His democratisation of fashion

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Halston, Loulou de la Falaise and Andy Warhol at an event at Studio 54 (Photo: Sonia Moskowitz/Getty Images)
Above Halston, Loulou de la Falaise and Andy Warhol at an event at Studio 54 (Photo: Sonia Moskowitz/Getty Images)
Halston, Loulou de la Falaise and Andy Warhol at an event at Studio 54 (Photo: Sonia Moskowitz/Getty Images)

He is credited with ‘democratising’ high fashion, making it more accessible by extending his brand to multiple price points. A controversial partnership with JCPenney paved the way for the practice of designer partnerships with mass retailers.

His cultural impact

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Marisa Berenson, Roy Halston, Liza Minnelli and friends attend the fashion show to benefit the restoration of the Chateau of Versailles (Photo: Getty Images)
Above Marisa Berenson, Roy Halston, Liza Minnelli and friends attend the fashion show to benefit the restoration of the Chateau of Versailles (Photo: Getty Images)
Marisa Berenson, Roy Halston, Liza Minnelli and friends attend the fashion show to benefit the restoration of the Chateau of Versailles (Photo: Getty Images)

Halston’s body of work symbolised American glamour at its most hedonistic. He stood at the center of a fashion revolution, spurred by friendships with cultural icons like Liza Minnelli, Bianca Jagger, and Andy Warhol. 

His legacy in the global fashion scene reached new heights when he, Bill Blass, Oscar de La Renta, Anne Klein and Stephen Burrows went toe-to-toe with five established French couturiers in the legendary fashion presentation dubbed the Battle of Versailles, an event which helped proved that American fashion was a worldwide force to be reckoned with.

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Julianna Cabili
Features Writer, Tatler Philippines
Tatler Asia

About

Julianna has been interested in leading a literary life since she first read Frances Hodgson Burnett's A Little Princess at eight. Before working with Tatler, she was an archive intern at The Center for Fiction in Brooklyn, New York. She is a textbook Pisces who devotes most of her spare time to her crochet projects, watching classic films, and going through her never-ending pile of unread books. She studied creative writing, global literature and art history at Sarah Lawrence College, graduating with a Bachelor of Arts degree in 2022. Toni Morrison, Nora Ephron, Clarice Lispector and Jia Tolentino are among her all-time favourite writers.

Work

Julianna writes about fashion, beauty, sustainability, and the arts. She is always keen on conducting interviews with talented women who are changing the game in their respective fields. 

For event invites and story leads, hit her up at julianna.cabili@tatlerasia.com