NEW YORK, NY - CIRCA 1982: Brooke Shields and Valentino circa 1982 in New York City. (Photo by Sonia Moskowitz/IMAGES/Getty Images)
Cover 回顧Valentino Garavani傳奇一生:從「Valentino紅」到最後的告別大秀。(Photo by Sonia Moskowitz/IMAGES/Getty Images)
NEW YORK, NY - CIRCA 1982: Brooke Shields and Valentino circa 1982 in New York City. (Photo by Sonia Moskowitz/IMAGES/Getty Images)

義大利傳奇時裝大師、Valentino 品牌創始人 Valentino Garavani 在羅馬去世,享年93歲。在他位於羅馬的宅邸中,於摯愛親友的陪伴下安詳辭世。

Valentino Garavani 曾說:「我只知道如何製作美麗的衣服。」這句話謙虛卻也狂傲。在他長達半個世紀的職業生涯中,他定義了何謂「高訂(Haute Couture)」,創造了專屬於他的顏色,並讓全世界的女人在他的剪裁中找到了最美的自己。隨著他的離去,那個崇尚極致奢華、純粹美的黃金年代,似乎也正式落下了帷幕。而從實際層面來說,Valentino 作為一個仍在運營且活躍的時裝品牌,他的離世標誌著一條鮮活連結的斷裂。我們一起來回顧他傳奇的一生,Valentino Garavani 帶著他的紅,走入了永恆的歷史,但他留下的優雅與尊嚴,將永遠是時尚界最珍貴的資產。

延伸閱讀:永遠的法式繆思|碧姬芭杜過世:為何她能讓珍柏金視為偶像?關於她輝煌的前半生,與充滿瑕疵的最後叛逆

只為追尋「美」的極致

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LOS ANGELES, CA - APRIL 01:  Actress Anne Hathaway, designer Valentino Garavani, actress Gwyneth Paltrow and designer Tom Ford arrive at the L.A. premiere of "Valentino: The Last Emperor" held at the L.A. County Museum of Art on April 1, 2009 in Los Angeles, California.  (Photo by Alberto E. Rodriguez/Getty Images)
Above (Photo by Alberto E. Rodriguez/Getty Images)
LOS ANGELES, CA - APRIL 01:  Actress Anne Hathaway, designer Valentino Garavani, actress Gwyneth Paltrow and designer Tom Ford arrive at the L.A. premiere of "Valentino: The Last Emperor" held at the L.A. County Museum of Art on April 1, 2009 in Los Angeles, California.  (Photo by Alberto E. Rodriguez/Getty Images)

1932 年出生於義大利沃蓋拉(Voghera)的 Valentino,從小就對時尚展現出過人的天賦。年輕時他遠赴巴黎學藝,在 Jean Dessès 和 Guy Laroche 門下磨練技藝。但他真正的傳奇,始於回到羅馬後。1960 年,他在羅馬孔多蒂街(Via Condotti)開設了自己的工作室,並遇見了他一生的事業夥伴與摯友 Giancarlo Giammetti。兩人聯手打造的時尚帝國,迅速征服了當時的好萊塢巨星與皇室成員。

一種無可取代的紅

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Above Valentino Garavani 曾說:「我只知道如何製作美麗的衣服。」
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FRANCE - JANUARY 23:  Valentino in Paris, France on January 23rd, 2008.  (Photo by Pierre HOUNSFIELD/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
Above (Photo by Pierre HOUNSFIELD/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
FRANCE - JANUARY 23:  Valentino in Paris, France on January 23rd, 2008.  (Photo by Pierre HOUNSFIELD/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

如果說 Chanel 擁有黑色,那麼 Valentino 就擁有了紅色。 據說年輕時的 Valentino 在巴塞隆納的一場歌劇中,看見一位穿著紅衣的女子,從此認定:「紅,是唯一能與黑、白抗衡的顏色。」 他創造的 "Rosso Valentino"(Valentino Red),由 100% 的洋紅、100% 的黃與 10% 的黑調配而成。這種紅,熱烈、霸氣卻不失優雅,成為了紅毯上最令人屏息的風景。

他是巨星背後的造夢者

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Actress Elizabeth Taylor (L) and fashion designer Valentino Garavani attend a Valentino gala in 1991. (Photo by Fairchild Archive/Penske Media via Getty Images)
Above Actress Elizabeth Taylor (L) and fashion designer Valentino Garavani attend a Valentino gala in 1991. (Photo by Fairchild Archive/Penske Media via Getty Images)
Actress Elizabeth Taylor (L) and fashion designer Valentino Garavani attend a Valentino gala in 1991. (Photo by Fairchild Archive/Penske Media via Getty Images)
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NEW YORK CITY - JUNE 7:  Valentino and Jackie Onassis attends Valentino Fashion Show Benefit for the Special Olympics on June 7, 1976 at the Pierre Hotel in New York City. (Photo by Ron Galella, Ltd./Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
Above Valentino and Jackie Onassis attends Valentino Fashion Show. (Photo by Ron Galella, Ltd./Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
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Jackie Onassis and Sir Hugh Fraser during Costume Institute Gala Presents "Fashions of The Hapsburg Era" at Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City, New York, United States. (Photo by Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
Above Jackie Onassis and Sir Hugh Fraser during Costume Institute Gala Presents "Fashions of The Hapsburg Era". (Photo by Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
NEW YORK CITY - JUNE 7:  Valentino and Jackie Onassis attends Valentino Fashion Show Benefit for the Special Olympics on June 7, 1976 at the Pierre Hotel in New York City. (Photo by Ron Galella, Ltd./Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
Jackie Onassis and Sir Hugh Fraser during Costume Institute Gala Presents "Fashions of The Hapsburg Era" at Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City, New York, United States. (Photo by Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)

Valentino 的名字總是與傳奇女性連在一起。1968 年,他大膽推出「白色系列(The White Collection)」,驚豔了習慣色彩的時尚圈。而傑奎琳·甘迺迪(Jackie Kennedy)在二次婚姻嫁給希臘船王歐納西斯時,身穿的正是 Valentino 設計的白色蕾絲短裙。從伊莉莎白泰勒、奧黛麗赫本到茱莉亞羅勃茲,他不僅是她們的設計師,更是她們的摯友。

永遠的優雅

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NEW YORK, NY - CIRCA 1982: Brooke Shields and Valentino circa 1982 in New York City. (Photo by Sonia Moskowitz/IMAGES/Getty Images)
Above Brooke Shields and Valentino circa 1982 in New York City. (Photo by Sonia Moskowitz/IMAGES/Getty Images)
NEW YORK, NY - CIRCA 1982: Brooke Shields and Valentino circa 1982 in New York City. (Photo by Sonia Moskowitz/IMAGES/Getty Images)

2008 年,Valentino 在巴黎羅丹美術館舉辦了告別大秀,正式退休。紀錄片《華倫天奴:最後的王(Valentino: The Last Emperor)》記錄了他對美的執著與對醜陋的零容忍。即使退休後,他依然是時尚圈的精神領袖,直到生命的最後一刻。

Keira Lu
Fashion Editor, Tatler Taiwan
Tatler Asia
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Keira Lu

Fashion Editor, Taiwan

keira.lu@tatlerasia.com