Cover Photo: Kebaya Wirda
Photo: Kebaya Wirda
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From its history to contemporary reinventions, discover how the kebaya transcends borders as a unifying symbol of elegance across Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, Thailand, and Brunei—now officially recognised on Unesco’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list
“The kebaya is a symbol of the elegance and beauty of a lady of the Nusantara [in the Malay archipelago]. It connects and unites the women in Southeast Asia,” shares Ratianah Tahir, the founder-designer of Kebaya by Ratianah in an interview with Tatler Singapore in the April 2024 issue.
Eight months later, on December 4, 2024, the kebaya was officially inscribed onto the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (Unesco)’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list, which recognises traditions, practices, and expressions that communities consider part of their cultural heritage. The decision was widely celebrated by the five Southeast Asian nations that jointly nominated it: Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, Thailand and Brunei.
A symbol of refinement in the Nusantara—the old Javanese term referring to modern-day Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, Brunei, and parts of Thailand—the kebaya has long been woven into the cultural fabric of the region. Defined by its graceful front opening and long sleeves, the kebaya takes on myriad forms, from delicate lace to structured brocade and fine cotton, often adorned with intricate embroidery or shimmering beadwork.
In case you missed it: Studio Gypsied founder Aqilah Zailan on honouring her Javanese heritage and ancestral narratives through everyday designs
Above Baju by Oniatta’s Kebaya Kemben
Baju by Oniatta’s Kebaya Kemben
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Depending on the occasion, the wearer, and the cultural tradition, the kebaya is often paired with a lower garment—whether the sarong (a stitched, tubular skirt) or the kain batik (a long piece of rectangular cloth wrapped and tucked around the waist with prints made from wax-resist dyeing techniques). This interplay of textures and silhouettes allows the kebaya to move effortlessly between the everyday and the ceremonial.
While the kebaya remains anchored in tradition, contemporary designers are reinventing it for the modern era. Among them is Oniatta Effendi, who has introduced the Kebaya Kemben, a bold reinterpretation of the classic ensemble.
In this interview with Tatler Singapore in May 2024, she explains how her design subverts convention. Traditionally, the kemben is a foundational layer, worn under both the kebaya and sarong for modesty. Oniatta’s version, however, partially reveals the breast cloth, cinching it with an obi sash, creating a striking hybrid of structure and softness.
While contemporary designers like her are reimagining the kebaya for modern times, understanding its rich historical journey helps appreciate these innovations in context.
Origins and Evolution
Above Cabin crew from Singapore Airlines. (Photo: Creative Commons)
Cabin crew from Singapore Airlines. (Photo: Creative Commons)
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The kebaya’s exact origins remain a subject of scholarly debate. Some theories trace its name to the Arabic word qaba, meaning long, loose jacket, while its triangular underarm panels resemble structural elements found in Middle Eastern robes.
Yet, the kebaya as we know it today is most closely linked to 15th-century Java, during the era of the Majapahit Empire. Aristocratic women, influenced by shifting modesty norms amid Islam’s growing influence in the region, began layering the blouse over a kemben. Over time, this style spread across the Nusantara, adapting to local textiles, embellishments, and cultural aesthetics
In Singapore, the kebaya is a living symbol of the nation’s multicultural identity, finding expression in both traditional settings and modern institutions. Perhaps its most famous iteration is the Singapore Airlines stewardess uniform, designed in 1968 to reflect both modernity and tradition. The “Singapore Girl”, clad in a figure-skimming kebaya, remains a cultural icon.
Beyond this, the kebaya transcends ethnic boundaries, with the Malay and Peranakan communities being its primary custodians. However, its influence extends far beyond, embraced across Singapore’s diverse cultural landscape.
Regional Variations
Above Women in sarong and kebaya at the entrance of a house in a village in the Minahasa. (Photo: Wiki Commons)
Women in sarong and kebaya at the entrance of a house in a village in the Minahasa. (Photo: Wiki Commons)
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As the kebaya journeyed across Southeast Asia, it evolved into distinct regional styles, each reflecting local customs, materials, and aesthetic traditions. In Indonesia, where the kebaya remains deeply embedded in everyday and ceremonial dress, several variations flourish across the archipelago.
The Kebaya Jawa, or Javanese kebaya, is typically cut with a V-shaped neckline and has a slightly longer hem. While simpler versions may include subtle stitched detailing, more formal iterations, such as those worn for weddings, are often crafted from rich velvet and feature embellishments.
Closely related is the Kebaya Kutubaru, distinguished by a central front panel that connects the two sides of the blouse to create a layered look.
Equally iconic is the Kebaya Kartini, named after the pioneering Javanese feminist Raden Ajeng Kartini. With its long sleeves, standing collar, and structured form, this kebaya was traditionally worn by aristocratic women and remains a popular choice for formal occasions and state ceremonies. The Kartini kebaya came to symbolise the emancipation of women in 19th-century Indonesia, particularly the white version, famously worn by Kartini herself as she campaigned for women's education and rights.
Above Sarong kebaya costumes from Mediacorp’s Emerald Hill - The Little Nyonya Story, available to view at the Peranakan Museum. (Photo: Peranakan Museum)
Sarong kebaya costumes from Mediacorp’s Emerald Hill - The Little Nyonya Story, available to view at the Peranakan Museum. (Photo: Peranakan Museum)
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In Bali, the kebaya takes on a more vibrant, contemporary form. The Kebaya Bali is typically tight-fitting, made from lace or sheer fabric, and paired with a brightly coloured sash tied at the waist and worn with kain batik. It is an essential garment for temple visits, ceremonies, and other cultural events.
Among the most visually striking variations is the Peranakan Kebaya, also known as the Kebaya Nyonya, which evolved within the Straits Chinese communities of Malaysia and Singapore. The Peranakan Kebaya features elaborate hand-embroidered motifs that include flowers, birds, and butterflies. It is often worn with a sarong featuring intricate batik designs and fastened with an ornate kerongsang, a decorative brooch set. This style, made famous by Peranakan matriarchs, remains a symbol of cultural pride.
Despite their shared lineage, kebaya styles differ significantly in construction, motif, textile, and philosophy. As Raymond Wong, designer and craftsperson at Rumah Kim Choo, explains in the aforementioned April 2024 Tatler Singapore feature: “We strategically position our embroidery so that it enhances the cut of the kebaya [and accentuates the figure of the wearer].”
Above Sufiyanto Amat Sopingi of Kebaya Societé, with the Singapore Airlines kebaya from 1969 (foreground) as well as Heritage Board other pieces from the collection, which centres around Malay material, culture and aesthetic
Sufiyanto Amat Sopingi of Kebaya Societé, with the Singapore Airlines kebaya from 1969 (foreground) as well as Heritage Board other pieces from the collection, which centres around Malay material, culture and aesthetic
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Meanwhile, “the Malays emphasised more on the textile”, shared Sufiyanto Amat Sopingi, one-half of the duo behind Kebaya Societé, an online resource chronicling Nusantara fashion in Singapore, Malaysia and Indonesia from the turn of the 20th century to the 1980s, in the same article. “For example, silk and songket (fabric woven with gold or silver threads), not so much embellishments such as embroidery or sequins. With the exception of, for example, the kebaya keringkam (gold thread embroidery), which is something that’s worn for special occasions.”
Sufiyanto notes that kebaya silhouettes vary according to personal preference. Some opt for looser styles like the longer and more modest kebaya panjang, while others favour the more fitted and short kebaya pendek.
While the kebaya remains a symbol of cultural heritage, it is also a garment that continues to evolve in craftsmanship and accessibility. From heritage ateliers preserving time-honored embroidery techniques to contemporary designers reinterpreting the kebaya for modern wardrobes, there are numerous places to find this iconic piece across Southeast Asia and beyond.
Singapore is home to a variety of heritage ateliers, contemporary designers, and bespoke tailors that offer beautifully crafted kebayas.
Whether you’re looking for a traditional Peranakan kebaya, a modern reinterpretation, or a custom-made piece, here are some of the best places to shop for a kebaya in Singapore.
Kebaya by Ratianah
Above Ratianah Tahir, the founder-designer of Kebaya by Ratianah
Ratianah Tahir, the founder-designer of Kebaya by Ratianah
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A staple among kebaya wearers in Singapore, Kebaya by Ratianah, located in Kampong Glam, specialises in contemporary interpretations of the traditional kebaya. From French lace and silk creations suitable for weddings and grander occasions to everyday cotton designs adorned with playful prints, Ratianah blends classic silhouettes with modern sensibilities. Her mission: to make the kebaya relevant and appealing to a younger generation, ensuring that this storied garment continues to thrive in the present day.
Aside from ready-to-wear clothing, the boutique also offers bespoke services that allow clients to customise their own designs, and accessories, such as brooches and selendang, to complete their look.
23 Bussorah Street, Singapore 199441
Rumah Kim Choo
Above Raymond Wong, the designer and craftsperson of Rumah Kim Choo
Raymond Wong, the designer and craftsperson of Rumah Kim Choo
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More than just a boutique, this preserved shophouse offers a multidimensional experience that honours the richness of Peranakan tradition. Its heritage gallery on the second floor offers visitors a glimpse into the customs, fashion, and domestic life of the Peranakan community, while the ground floor houses heirloom-inspired accessories and collectibles.
But Rumah Kim Choo also regularly organises walking trails through the historic Katong-Joo Chiat enclave, intimate gallery tours, Peranakan beading workshops, and tasting sessions featuring an array of traditional nonya kueh. Those interested in owning a bespoke kebaya can book a complimentary fitting at the boutique gallery.
111 East Coast Rd, #109, Singapore 428801
Baju by Oniatta
Above Oniatta Effendi with her Kebaya Kemben
Oniatta Effendi with her Kebaya Kemben
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Founded by educator and cultural advocate Oniatta Effendi, Baju by Oniatta represents a passionate commitment to preserving and reimagining traditional Nusantara textiles. Oniatta's journey began during her travels throughout Indonesia, where she developed a deep appreciation for batik that led to not just personal collecting but a vision to support the traditional ecosystem behind this heritage craft.
Her kebaya interpretations over the years include her innovative Kembaya Kemben and her takes on the Kebaya Pesak (a loose, knee, shin or ankle length garment, with a split opening at the front) paired with batik tulis (hand drawn batik).
Beyond her innovative kebaya interpretations, Oniatta’s work is distinguished by her holistic approach to cultural preservation. She operates both Baju by Oniatta and Galeri Tokokita, creating complementary spaces that honour craftsmanship while fostering education and community. The brand works in direct partnership with artisans across Indonesia, establishing relationships built on mutual respect and shared commitment to textile traditions.
Education remains central to Oniatta's mission, with both the brand and gallery serving as trusted platforms for learning about batik and other Nusantara textiles.
757A North Bridge Road, Singapore 198725
Toko Aljunied
Operating since the 1930s, Toko Aljunied has established itself as one of Singapore’s most respected destinations for traditional Malay and Indonesian kebaya. Located in the historic Kampong Gelam district, this family-run establishment specialises in authentic kebaya styles crafted from high-quality fabrics including luxurious silks, fine cotton and traditional songket woven with metallic threads.
Toko Aljunied is particularly known for its collection of embroidered Nyonya kebaya, kebaya panjang and kebaya pendek, offering both ready-to-wear options and custom tailoring services. Their in-house designers work closely with clients to select appropriate fabrics, embellishments, and silhouettes for specific occasions ranging from everyday wear to wedding ceremonies.
91 Arab Street, Singapore 199787
Kebaya Wirda
The most contemporary addition to this list is Kebaya Wirda, an online-only label founded by content creator and podcaster Wirda Elliesa. Specialising in form-fitting lace kebayas, the brand blends heritage with modern touches, offering both traditional silhouettes like the Kutubaru and updated interpretations featuring bell sleeves and wide necklines. Design details such as feathered cuffs, pearl buttons, and mesh accents add a playful, fashion-forward twist to these otherwise classic pieces.
Visit Kebaya Wirda’s website for more information.
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Nafeesa Saini is the Features Editor at Tatler Singapore, where she shapes long-form stories on culture, business, philanthropy, wellness, and the people driving change in Asia. With a deep interest in storytelling that intersects meaningfully with identity and impact, she has profiled a diverse range of visionaries, from scientific pioneers in AI and health to creative trailblazers and literary minds.
Nafeesa’s writing includes cover stories and profiles that spotlight influential voices, alongside commentary on the trends reshaping our world.
Off the clock, Nafeesa unwinds with fiction, a good thrift hunt, and ‘brainrot’ TikTok scroll—while always keeping one eye on her next cultural getaway, usually to Indonesia.
