We look at three homegrown brands specialising in products with discreet details known only to the wearer or owner, but with the power to lift spirits and keep heritage alive. In the second of a three-part series, Ken Zhou and Lyn Kua shares how Assemble is one of the first tailors in the region to offer custom printed linings
When it comes to tailoring, the possibilities for customisation are endless. Just ask Ken Zhou, the co-founder of menswear tailor Assemble, who is happy to accommodate any client request, such as a flamingo-printed suit they were once commissioned to make.
“An experienced stylist or tailor is key to guiding you towards the suitable fabric for your body type, and the right shade and pattern for your skin tone and physique,” explains Zhou, who went from working in a bank to fitting clients in public restrooms when he first started in 2014. The former banker, who is accustomed to tailoring his clothes, saw a need for tailors who emphasised modern contemporary styles. He roped in his then-girlfriend, now-wife Lyn Kua to join him in the business.
The three important elements of a well-made suit, according to Zhou, are “balance—to balance a suit on an asymmetrical shoulder or posture; proportion—to establish an ideal dividing line between the upper and lower torso; and fit—to achieve a generous yet gentle fit in a suit that doesn’t appear too heavy on the shoulder pad, yet creating a slim silhouette.”
Read also: 11 Singapore Fashion Designers to Have on Your Radar
Besides the choice of fabric and cut, clients can also choose the type of construction, lapels, pockets, vents and linings that they want. “We are always looking for new customisation and personalisation services to offer to our clients,” shares Kua. “What kind of details can we add to a client’s suit so that it would be uniquely theirs?”
Assemble is one of the first tailors in the region to offer custom printed linings. Its in-house lining collection features artworks designed in collaboration with homegrown creatives. “Even though the lining is covered most of the time, it gives the wearer freedom to choose any design or print they want, which truly brings out the character of an otherwise formal suit,” says Kua.
The latest collaboration with illustrator Lee Xin Li (@xinli29288) comprises three original map-inspired artworks showcasing Singapore culture and food. Meanwhile, those with a penchant for ink art would appreciate the nine-piece collection by tattoo artists Keith Yeo (@AngMohKeith), who was inspired by classic American tattoo flash, Japanese ukiyo-e prints and anime series Naruto Shippuden; Gillian Toh (@Gildebeest), best known for her split-head designs; and Julian Chia (@TheBoldFox), whose nature-inspired artworks come with a touch of local culture.
Don't miss: How Local Fashion Retailer Tina Tan-Leo is Elevating the Singapore Fashion Scene