Cover Schiaparelli’s Haute Couture Fall Winter 2025 constitutes a subtle yet resonant moment in the house’s evolving narrative
Schiaparelli’s Haute Couture Fall Winter 2025 constitutes a subtle yet resonant moment in the house’s evolving narrative
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There are collections designed to dazzle. And then there are those that invite reflection. Schiaparelli’s Haute Couture Fall Winter 2025 belongs firmly in the latter category as a subtle yet resonant moment in the house’s evolving narrative.
Daniel Roseberry, who has defined Schiaparelli’s visual identity for the past five years, steps away from spectacle this season. He forgoes the social media-ready theatrics and instead turns inward, into the quiet depths of beauty and courage.
The runway, staged at the Petit Palais Museum of Fine Arts, felt steeped in memory, evoking the spirit of pre-war Paris, the very era when Elsa Schiaparelli unveiled her iconic “Zodiac” collection before her departure from the City of Light. In the muted light and heavy silence, the first looks emerged as though drawn from the black-and-white images of Man Ray or Horst: timeless, yet reborn for a new age.
Above In the muted light and heavy silence, the first looks emerged as though drawn from the black-and-white images of Man Ray or Horst (photo: Schiaparelli)
Above In the muted light and heavy silence, the first looks emerged as though drawn from the black-and-white images of Man Ray or Horst (photo: Schiaparelli)
In the muted light and heavy silence, the first looks emerged as though drawn from the black-and-white images of Man Ray or Horst (photo: Schiaparelli)
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Above Where past seasons leaned into grandeur and provocation, this chapter embraces restraint and reflection (photo: Schiaparelli)
Above Where past seasons leaned into grandeur and provocation, this chapter embraces restraint and reflection (photo: Schiaparelli)
Where past seasons leaned into grandeur and provocation, this chapter embraces restraint and reflection (photo: Schiaparelli)
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“Back to the Future” completes a trilogy of Haute Couture collections by Creative Director Daniel Roseberry, following “The Phoenix Reborn” and “Icarus”. Where past seasons leaned into grandeur and provocation, this chapter embraces restraint and reflection. Gone are the anatomical silhouettes and shock-inducing statements. In their place, Roseberry reshapes his Couture vocabulary, stripped back, contemplative, yet no less poignant.
See also: Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer Men’s 2026: When heritage is rewritten with pioneering thinking
Above Gone are the anatomical silhouettes and shock-inducing statements (photo: Schiaparelli)
Above Gone are the anatomical silhouettes and shock-inducing statements (photo: Schiaparelli)
Gone are the anatomical silhouettes and shock-inducing statements (photo: Schiaparelli)
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Above The palette is stark—black and white—with fleeting flashes of crimson, evoking a melancholic post-war sensibility (photo: Schiaparelli)
Above The palette is stark—black and white—with fleeting flashes of crimson, evoking a melancholic post-war sensibility (photo: Schiaparelli)
The palette is stark—black and white—with fleeting flashes of crimson, evoking a melancholic post-war sensibility (photo: Schiaparelli)
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The show opens with an embroidered black suit, a reinterpretation of a Schiaparelli original, and concludes with an Apollo cape worn in reverse. It’s a subtle gesture, suggesting a world turned on its head. In between, silhouettes are carefully measured. Flou fabrics, asymmetric cuts and pleats harken back to the elegance of the 1930s. The palette is stark, black and white with fleeting flashes of crimson, evoking a melancholic post-war sensibility.
Above Many looks are defined by delicate fabric treatments that seem to breathe against the skin (photo: Schiaparelli)
Above Many looks are defined by delicate fabric treatments that seem to breathe against the skin (photo: Schiaparelli)
Many looks are defined by delicate fabric treatments that seem to breathe against the skin (photo: Schiaparelli)
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Above A sheer layer of silk tulle draped over robust Donegal tweed evokes a haze of memory (photo: Schiaparelli)
Above A sheer layer of silk tulle draped over robust Donegal tweed evokes a haze of memory (photo: Schiaparelli)
A sheer layer of silk tulle draped over robust Donegal tweed evokes a haze of memory (photo: Schiaparelli)
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Many looks are defined by delicate fabric treatments that seem to breathe against the skin. A sheer layer of silk tulle draped over robust Donegal tweed evokes a haze of memory, ethereal yet emotionally weighty. A polka dot suit, seemingly demure from afar, becomes translucent up close, embodying the spirit of Couture that Roseberry is chasing. Modesty becomes a container for unspoken truths.
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Among the most striking pieces: a crimson satin corset dress featuring a faux bust and back, crafted to resemble a second body. It is arresting in its quiet intensity, a nod to the protective shells we wear in uncertain times. A ruby heart pendant pulsates at the model’s back, symbolising a silent yet persistent emotional core. Here, performance yields to intimacy. This is Couture as emotional sculpture: profound, deliberate, and gently beautiful.
Above Look 24 is inspired by Salvador Dalí’s “The Royal Heart” necklace (1953), which vibrates like a heartbeat (photo: Schiaparelli)
Look 24 is inspired by Salvador Dalí’s “The Royal Heart” necklace (1953), which vibrates like a heartbeat (photo: Schiaparelli)
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Roseberry has previously shared that he studied Schiaparelli primarily through monochrome photography. That lens, both distant and intimate, shaped the mood of this collection. Details such as saddles, heart-shaped earrings, belts, and gentle flaps appear in just the right measure, subtly recalling the house’s surrealist heritage.
Above “Back to the Future” is a murmur (photo: Schiaparelli)
Above “Back to the Future” is a murmur (photo: Schiaparelli)
“Back to the Future” is a murmur (photo: Schiaparelli)
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Above Accessories are sparse, but never insignificant (photo: Schiaparelli)
Above Accessories are sparse, but never insignificant (photo: Schiaparelli)
Accessories are sparse, but never insignificant (photo: Schiaparelli)
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Accessories are sparse, but never insignificant. Pointed-toe pumps, skeletal necklaces, and fine gold-plated belts form a visual language that whispers rather than declares a surrealist code reserved for those who know how to read it.
In contrast to the soaring ambition of “Icarus” or the fiery rebirth of “The Phoenix Reborn”, “Back to the Future” is a murmur. It doesn’t seek to overwhelm, but to connect. This is Couture that speaks in hushed tones, yet still compels you to listen.
Above Haute Couture is not merely a display of technique, but a conversation (photo: Schiaparelli)
Above Haute Couture is not merely a display of technique, but a conversation (photo: Schiaparelli)
Haute Couture is not merely a display of technique, but a conversation (photo: Schiaparelli)
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Ultimately, Haute Couture is not merely a display of technique, but a conversation with history, with identity, with the times. This season, Roseberry allows sheer fabrics and intricate embroidery to become whispers in a restless world.
Above Admire the designs in the Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall Winter 2025 collection
