Rajo Laurel on his ‘Protea’ collection: a love letter to Africa’s colours, culture, and soul

The name ‘Protea’ comes from a wild, resilient bloom that grows amidst the most dire circumstances. Laurel drew comparisons between the flower’s symbolism and the enduring creativity of Filipino design. These creative individuals, according to him, have the ability to conjure incredible with the least amount of resources. “I loved that connection,” he remarks.

Texture and breathability take the foreground, as Laurel expects a sweltering summer this year. Lightweight and natural fabrics are spotlighted, like pleated cotton madras, “delicious” tufted cotton toile reminiscent of the African sky, and airy cotton linens. Eco-consciousness also plays a crucial role. “We are very proud about how sustainable our production practices are,” he comments. “We do not over produce and we proudly use deadstock materials so there is very little wastage. 

Laurel admits that he is partial to this collection’s prints—an interpretation of African textiles that leans toward a poetic approach rather than a literal copycat. “I didn't want this to be a literal interpretation of my trip,” he admits, as he considers the ‘Protea’ as more of a ‘perfumed adaptation’ of what he felt and witnessed in the continent. There is also a series of white shirts which the designer believes are destined to become summer staples.

Those who are familiar with the designer’s oeuvre can notice traces of the brand’s DNA. While ‘Protea’ stays true to the brand’s signature aesthetic, it also introduces new elements in fabrication, colour and shape. The approach remains straightforward and steadfast, to excite not only the clientele, but Laurel’s own creative team.

He reveals, “We’re doing new things with our shapes and adding nuances to our design vocabulary.” A notable expansion is the inclusion of menswear pieces, building on a pattern that began with the ‘RAJOMAN’ collection he debuted at last year’s BYS Fashion Week. It’s a direction Laurel is committed to exploring further. 

As fluent, versed and in-touch as he is with his creative ability, Laurel affirms that understanding the needs of his clients is one of the most paramount parts of the design process. He envisions the pieces from ‘Protea’ as updates that enhance and elevate their own personal style. “This, for me, is the exciting part,” he gleams. “I cannot wait to see how they wear the pieces and interject their own personality into this narrative.”

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