In celebration of Jose “Pitoy” Moreno’s birth centennial, the Metropolitan Museum (The M) held an exhibition showcasing the evolution of the iconic designer’s style
Curated by art historian Florina H Capistrano-Baker with co-curators Ditas R Samson and Clarissa Esguerra, Timeless: J Moreno highlights Moreno’s reinterpretation of the Maria Clara gown and his use of various textiles, including jusi, piña and European fabrics, as well as his work with notable personalities and the Bayanihan Dance Company, where he began his career as a costume designer.
“We couldn’t do a chronological arrangement because we didn’t want people to stand in front of a timeline and read it for half an hour,” Capistrano-Baker clarifies. “Even though he used European fabrics, it was always very Filipino [in design].”
Read more: Pitoy Moreno: The fashion czar of Asia

Above Terno with painted and beaded phoenix design made in 2000 with plain weave, painted applique, beads and crystals
Moreno gained prominence after former First Lady Eva Macapagal took a great interest in him. A UP College of Fine Arts graduate, he entered the fashion industry by opening a studio on Taft Avenue. The legendary couturier made significant strides for Philippine fashion, mounting shows locally and internationally—even on a plane. His contributions, along with those of his contemporaries, helped shape the cosmopolitan Manila fashion scene in the Fifties.
“He was a very generous friend,” Capistrano-Baker comments on Moreno’s inclination to design gowns and dresses for his friends, most of whom were from the country’s elite social and diplomatic circles. “He really was apolitical. He had friends from both sides of the political spectrum… He was everyone’s couturier,” she continues.
Some of Moreno’s former models and patrons graced the exhibition’s opening night, celebrating his timeless legacy and invaluable contribution with his family and friends. Former president Gloria Macapagal Arroyo was the evening’s guest of honour. The Bayanihan Dance Company performed twice that evening, a poignant reminder of Moreno’s humble beginnings and a showcase of his artistry. The accompanying book, Timeless: J Moreno, was also presented and may be purchased at The M.
Read more: Inside ‘Timeless: J Moreno’ at the Metropolitan Museum of Manila

Above ‘Timeless: J Moreno’ exhibition runs at the M until June 29

Above Modernised Maria Clara gowns designed by Pitoy Moreno for the Bayanihan Dance Company
“The exhibition presents fashion and dress as art. You may notice this as you walk into the galleries, in the way the dresses are positioned, and treated with the same respect that we accord paintings and sculpture… We hope that, like his immortal phoenixes and cranes, Pitoy will live on in our memories for the next thousand years,” Capistrano- Baker concludes.
The exhibition runs until June 29, 2025.
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Credits
Images: Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Manila












