Cover Beba Moreno, Gloria Macapagal Arroyo, Tina Colayco, Doris Magsaysay Ho grace the vernissage of The Metropolitan Museum’s exhibition of Pitoy Moreno’s life and legacy (Photo: Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Manila)

In celebration of Jose “Pitoy” Moreno’s birth centennial, the Metropolitan Museum (The M) held an exhibition showcasing the evolution of the iconic designer’s style

Curated by art historian Florina H Capistrano-Baker with co-curators Ditas R Samson and Clarissa Esguerra, Timeless: J Moreno highlights Moreno’s reinterpretation of the Maria Clara gown and his use of various textiles, including jusi, piña and European fabrics, as well as his work with notable personalities and the Bayanihan Dance Company, where he began his career as a costume designer.

“We couldn’t do a chronological arrangement because we didn’t want people to stand in front of a timeline and read it for half an hour,” Capistrano-Baker clarifies. “Even though he used European fabrics, it was always very Filipino [in design].”

Read more: Pitoy Moreno: The fashion czar of Asia

Tatler Asia
Above Terno with painted and beaded phoenix design made in 2000 with plain weave, painted applique, beads and crystals

Moreno gained prominence after former First Lady Eva Macapagal took a great interest in him. A UP College of Fine Arts graduate, he entered the fashion industry by opening a studio on Taft Avenue. The legendary couturier made significant strides for Philippine fashion, mounting shows locally and internationally—even on a plane. His contributions, along with those of his contemporaries, helped shape the cosmopolitan Manila fashion scene in the Fifties.

“He was a very generous friend,” Capistrano-Baker comments on Moreno’s inclination to design gowns and dresses for his friends, most of whom were from the country’s elite social and diplomatic circles. “He really was apolitical. He had friends from both sides of the political spectrum… He was everyone’s couturier,” she continues.

arrow left arrow left
arrow right arrow right
Photo 1 of 7 Lulu Tan Gan
Photo 2 of 7 Meg Paris-Tapales, Toni Parsons, Carol Garcia
Photo 3 of 7 Rombit Co, Cathy and Yaying Dragon, Sonia Olivares, Tina Colayco, Maja Olivares-Co, Tricia Dragon
Photo 4 of 7 Agnes Huibonhoa, Bambina Olivares
Photo 5 of 7 Kit Zobel, Anton Mendoza
Photo 6 of 7 Clarissa Esguerra, Ditas Samson, Sandy Castro, Sherman Baker
Photo 7 of 7 Margie Moran-Floirendo, Sandy Moran

Some of Moreno’s former models and patrons graced the exhibition’s opening night, celebrating his timeless legacy and invaluable contribution with his family and friends. Former president Gloria Macapagal Arroyo was the evening’s guest of honour. The Bayanihan Dance Company performed twice that evening, a poignant reminder of Moreno’s humble beginnings and a showcase of his artistry. The accompanying book, Timeless: J Moreno, was also presented and may be purchased at The M.

Read more: Inside ‘Timeless: J Moreno’ at the Metropolitan Museum of Manila

Tatler Asia
Above ‘Timeless: J Moreno’ exhibition runs at the M until June 29
Tatler Asia
Above Modernised Maria Clara gowns designed by Pitoy Moreno for the Bayanihan Dance Company

“The exhibition presents fashion and dress as art. You may notice this as you walk into the galleries, in the way the dresses are positioned, and treated with the same respect that we accord paintings and sculpture… We hope that, like his immortal phoenixes and cranes, Pitoy will live on in our memories for the next thousand years,” Capistrano- Baker concludes.

The exhibition runs until June 29, 2025.

NOW READ

The legacy of Ramon Valera, the Father of Philippine Fashion

The life and times of Salvacion Lim Higgins

Anna Bayle: Get to know Asia’s first supermodel

Credits

Images: Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Manila
Franz Sorilla IV
Art and Culture Editor, Tatler Philippines
Tatler Asia

About

Before assuming the Art and Culture Editor position, Franz has always had a penchant for visual and performing arts. He is passionate about exploring and writing about the local cultural scene and rediscovering the country’s storied past and rich heritage. Besides working on this luxury lifestyle magazine, Franz is an avid book reader, local traveller, museum-goer, chorister, and community theatre playwright.

Work

Franz earned a degree in Journalism from the University of Santo Tomas. He writes about local visual and performing artists and their craft; drinks wines, liquors, and spirits and talks about the creativity of their respective winemakers and master blenders; tries to learn more about business and investments; respects the tradition and artistry that go behind the making of watches and jewellery; and appreciates the genius of architecture and creative design.

As head of Tatler Philippines’ pool of writers, he helps them bring impactful and socially relevant stories to light.

For any leads, you may reach him through @franzsorillaiv on Instagram or franz@tatlerphilippines.com via email.