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It took a long time to get to the point where he is but it was all worth it as he lays claim to the title of the country’s Fashion King
Paul Cabral’s journey towards success wasn’t entirely sunshine and rainbows. At first, he took Accounting as a programme in his university years, then shifted career paths. “I wanted to be a make-up artist after graduation. I applied for a job but my previous employers told me there’s only an opening for a fashion designer,” he says. This started his foray into doing window displays. Then, under an apprenticeship with fashion designer Aureo Alonzo, he learnt the craft’s basics. “I think I have learnt from the best one can ask for,” he shares. “I studied the quality of workmanship, colour and fabric manipulation and intricate designs, among others.” Along the way, he got to work and collaborate with fellow masters like Joe Salazar.
In case you missed it: Joe Salazar: a Filipino master of fashion
He recalls fondly that the first piece of clothing he was obsessed with was one of Salazar’s creations: a modern Filipiniana—a “Maria Clara”, as he describes. The designer Inno Sotto also helped ignite the creative side of Cabral, especially his tailored works with three-dimensional tailoring. “I want something different, something you don’t normally see outside or anywhere else,” he says. “These designers’ craftsmanship was honed by time, which translates to their unique works.”
Above The fashion designer Paul Cabral in his atelier
The fashion designer Paul Cabral in his atelier
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There were many hits and misses in the beginning, but everything led him to where he is today. “I am so blessed,” Cabral says. “It’s beyond what I deserve.” His atelier is now one of the most sought-after design houses in the Philippines. From dressing up former President Joseph “Erap” Estrada—whom he holds dearly to his heart, always encouraging him to do something different—and now the First Lady Louise “Liza” Araneta-Marcos, who graced the cover of the August issue of Tatler this year in the designer’s very own creations, he is a go-to designer of presidents and first ladies. He even remembers how the First Lady’s encouragement in using Filipino fabrics like piña inspired him. It led him to think, “Why can’t we make something very Filipino but also affordable and current?”
Cabral was also tapped to design for heads of state during the Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation (APEC) Economic Leaders’ meeting in 2015, for which he is grateful. He immediately started working on the designs as soon as he was notified that his entry won the bidding. “Not everyone is allowed to trust you with this kind of privilege,” he says. “Working up an outfit relevant to every country they represent takes so much thought and creativity.” He recalls finding influence in the famous cherry blossoms of Japan or the different window designs from the old houses in the Philippines and incorporating them in embroideries. “It took a lot of effort,” he says.
In case you missed it: Malacañan honours Filipino designers in this year’s celebration of Philippine Independence
Above Model Amaliya Shakirova wears a Paul Cabral gown and Riqueza jewellery
Model Amaliya Shakirova wears a Paul Cabral gown and Riqueza jewellery
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He did not let success go to his head. In 2014, a few days before the State of the Nation Address of then President Benigno “Noynoy” Aquino III, media reporters were camping outside his atelier to hear from the designer himself. It was curious to know how he’d dress up the former leader and his sisters. However, he refused to answer unless he got the family’s permission and encouraged everyone to focus on what the President said in his address rather than what he wore.
Again and again, he showed the strength of his character—his humble and hardworking ways. But he isn’t perfect. Like many others, he didn’t immediately reach greater heights. “I started at square one. I learnt that way. Back then, I was running around the public market for materials. I was sourcing fabric and linen. I was cleaning the shop. I was doing everything,” he recalls. This is also why he is keen on doing whatever it takes when other team members deem the impossible—he worked his way up through everything.
Above Models Vince Marcelo and Amaliya Shakirova wear Paul Cabral’s tailored creations—which are proof of his painstaking
attention to detail and refined aesthetics
Models Vince Marcelo and Amaliya Shakirova wear Paul Cabral’s tailored creations—which are proof of his painstaking attention to detail and refined aesthetics
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As admirable as his resilience may be, Cabral thinks the Philippine fashion scene still needs work. “The government needs to support fashion designers, as well as put the weaving industry into the spotlight,” he suggests. “Our fabrics are so beautiful. We should encourage other designers to use local fabrics.” But he thinks they are expensive and take too long to make.
“Sometimes, for example, when we order in January, they arrive around April and May. The quality is good—but we can still improve.” The government, in collaboration with the Tourism Promotions Board (TPB) Philippines, the marketing and promotions arm of the Department of Tourism (DOT), launched Likha earlier this year. By having 57 weavers from Luzon, Visayas and Mindanao showcase their handloom textiles and intricate beading works, the week-long event connected traditional textile communities, designers, brands and manufacturers to innovate and co-create a sustainable pathway of Philippine textiles for the local and international market. This is a start.
More from Tatler: A symphony of beginnings at the Goldenberg Mansion with Anya Lagman
Above Models Vince Marcelo and Amaliya Shakirova wear Paul Cabral’s tailored creations—which are proof of his painstaking
attention to detail and refined aesthetics
Models Vince Marcelo and Amaliya Shakirova wear Paul Cabral’s tailored creations—which are proof of his painstaking attention to detail and refined aesthetics
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He addresses the need for more resources and equipment in line with this. “We also lack machines. Normally, you can make long electric pleats around 60m wide abroad. Here in the Philippines, you can’t—just limited, around 45m. So, we make do with what we have here.” He adds that sometimes, he wants to “make electric pleats for long items of clothing like the empire cut, for example. But you can’t do anything because the pleats are short. So, if the client is tall, you just cut it on the waist or hips”, he explains, further stressing the need to invest in technology and garments.
It helps that the current government is starting to focus its eyes on the industry—as Filipino fashion designers were the highlight of the Vin D’Honneur Independence Day celebration this year and had taken centre stage at the Goldenberg Mansion series. “[And] it’s all thanks to the first lady,” says Cabral. The talent and skills of several top designers were acknowledged for their contribution to the industry that day, marking the beginning of a fashion-centric culture in the Philippines.
In the fashion world, you can only say you’ve finally made it when a client gives you 100 per cent of their trust, according to Cabral. His clients would only inform him of the needed details: the theme, the grandness of the event, and the time it will occur. Some would request to work around the jewellery or accessories they want to
use. “Then, they will grant you the freedom to do what you like,” he says. “That’s the best compliment a designer can ever receive.”
Above Models Vince Marcelo and Amaliya Shakirova wear Paul Cabral’s tailored creations—which are proof of his painstaking
attention to detail and refined aesthetics
Models Vince Marcelo and Amaliya Shakirova wear Paul Cabral’s tailored creations—which are proof of his painstaking attention to detail and refined aesthetics
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This month he presents his first-ever 60-piece collection at the Goldenberg Mansion. Cabral shared that he is making sure he is pulling all the stops to make sure that this one will be exciting and memorable. During the shoot for this article, we were privy to some of his designs and marvelled at his creations; clean lines, gorgeous fabrics and Filipino couture at its finest.
We also witnessed Cabral in his element. Like every designer committed to their work, he was quick to assist his models. As they posed for the camera, he stood by, always just a second or two away to fix their outfits. Despite the busy atmosphere, the designer holds himself with an air of professionalism that was obviously honed by experience and time.
“Here in my work, I do almost everything,” Cabral shares. “I’m very OC [obsessive-compulsive].”
I check the buttons, I check the beadings, I check the quality, I check the fitting, I check how the fabric should fall, I check the length. Every single thing is personal for me.
Sometimes, when he leaves it to other people, it doesn’t come out the way he wanted. “I want to do it as perfectly as possible,” he stresses.
Above Paul Cabral is known for his
barong designs and his use of vibrant colours
Paul Cabral is known for his barong designs and his use of vibrant colours
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He works best under pressure but appreciates it when he has enough window time. “You can still change your mind and make changes when needed,” he explains. “There are times that no matter what I do, despite being in front of all the fabrics and materials, I couldn’t think of anything.” There are also times when he can just sketch as much as 50 designs in one sitting. Still, he insists he can pour his mind and heart more into projects when given enough time. “I just want to make people happy with my clothes. At this point in life, I want to share happiness.”
The designer has a deep appreciation for all things unique and different. “I’m a lover of beautiful things,” he says. When he is not in his office chair doing some sketches, he’s walking around his home or atelier fixing the interior. “I love decorating spaces inside homes.” For the designer, it’s a change of avenue—and what better way to squeeze some creativity than pursuing a hobby that’s in the design field as well?
Above Paul Cabral remains one of the
most sought-after fashion
designers in the country
Paul Cabral remains one of the most sought-after fashion designers in the country
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This quick cure to his creative blocks doesn’t always work. Sometimes, he reaches the stage of frustration and is lost at what to do. “I’m so exhausted, so overwhelmed with everything,” Paul shares. “There are times I have to decline clients and people would say that I am selective or particular. They don’t understand that we have to refuse sometimes.” There are clients that would insist, but he says that if you can’t really do everything, if the requests aren’t feasible in the amount of time given, “then you should really learn how to say no.” Still, even with a lot on his plate, Cabral does his best with all the grace he can muster and lift everything to Him. And that’s what he tells his fellow design enthusiasts, too: “[Just] do your very best and offer everything to God.”
Cabral isn’t the first to encourage aspiring designers to be innovative, and he certainly won’t be the last. Do research. Go out more. Be inspired. But there will be
limitations. “You can always get inspired by foreign designers and the like,” he says. “But, for a local designer, your identity should be the one that stands out in your
work the most.” Identity and fashion, after all, are intrinsically connected.
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Credits
Photography: Patrick Diokno
Content Direction: Anton San Diego
Styling: Michael Salientes
Make-Up: Patrick Rosas
Topics
Angela Nicole Regis Guiral is a digital editor at Tatler Philippines. She studied journalism and has since written features that look closely at how culture, lifestyle and social impact converge, while occasionally wandering into the worlds of style and travel.
