Helmut Lang
Cover Peter Do’s debut as creative director for Helmut Lang was highly anticipated (Photo: Getty Images)
Helmut Lang

From Peter Do to Jason Wu, here are 6 Asian designers who showcased stunning spring-summer 2024 collections at NYFW you should know about

The just-concluded New York Fashion Week (NYFW), which will be followed by Fashion Weeks—a month-long extravaganza of fashion shows, parties and afterparties—in London, Milan and Paris featured a slew of Asian designers showcasing their spring-summer 2024 collections.

From Vietnamese designer Peter Do’s debut collection for Helmut Lang to Vietnamese American designer Bach Mai’s celebration of his father’s life on the runway, here are six Asian designers who stood out at New York Fashion Week.

Read more: 4 Asian designers who shone at Redress Design Award 2023 you should know about

1. Grace Ling

Emerging Chinese designer Grace Ling, who’s previously dressed Jennifer Lopez, Karlie Kloss and other celebs, debuted her futuristic collection called Neverland at NYFW. Featuring sheer fabric and structural elements, her outfits exuded precision and sensuality.

2. Helmut Lang

The Helmut Lang fashion show marked a fresh start for the brand under its new creative director Peter Do. The Vietnamese American fashion designer’s tailoring techniques were easily identifiable in the collection, blended neatly with the minimalism that the Helmut Lang label was known for in the ’90s. Black was the dominant colour palette, with pops of pink, yellow and other bright hues creating a playful contrast.

Also read: Peter Do, fashion’s next great minimalist, is paving the way for emerging designers

3. Naeem Khan

Indian designer Naeem Khan showcased excellent craftsmanship in both western and Indian attires. Think opulent saree, leopard print pieces, structured mini dresses and hooded gowns, all embellished with intricate embroidery and lace. He also paid homage to his home country by adorning the models with traditional Indian jewellery.

You might also like: How India’s fashion industry is weaving heritage into its fabric and designs

4. Sandy Liang

New York-based designer Sandy Liang channelled a modern, whimsical version of the cottagecore aesthetic with creations that featured plenty of gingham, pleats and puffed sleeves. Liang played around with textures and proportions, incorporating feminine touches such as satin bow details and sheer lace with artfully placed appliqué.

5. Bach Mai

Vietnamese-American designer Bach Mai turned grief into beauty with his debut collection at New York Fashion Week. Having recently lost his father, Mai used the runway show as a celebration of his dad’s life, referencing things like cargo pockets and buckles from his father’s wardrobe in his collection. He also gave a nod to his Vietnamese heritage through a beautiful take on áo dài, the country’s national dress.

6. Jason Wu

Canada-based designer Jason Wu brought marine vibes to the runway with creations that featured jellyfish and seaweed motifs, elegantly distressed skirts and coats that reminded one of torn ship sails, and wispy gowns in shades of aqua. The styling was on point with the seascape theme: models flaunted pearlescent skin and wet, slicked-back hair.

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Amalissa Hall
Style Writer, Tatler Hong Kong
Tatler Asia
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Amalissa Hall was the style writer at Tatler Hong Kong. Primarily focused on writing digital articles, she covers news, tracks trends and interviews experts from the fashion, beauty and wellness industries, as well as entertainment spheres. Interview highlights include Formula One driver Alex Albon, award-winning costume designer Jany Temime and prolific make-up artist Lisa Eldridge.

She has also produced print stories featuring make-up artists, perfumiers and other upcoming figures discussing Asian representation on social media, sharing industry insight and trends as well as explaining new approaches to wellness in Hong Kong.