Cover Mark Bumgarner emphasises women’s beauty with silhouette, fabric and feminine design elements (Photo: courtesy of Mark Bumgarner)

In this four-part series, we meet emerging Asian designers who are championing accessibility, inclusivity and femininity, and looking to make a positive change through fashion. In part three, we get to know Filipino designer Mark Bumgarner, whose glamorous gowns celebrate women’s beauty

Mark Bumgarner loves to showcase femininity. The Filipino fashion designer—who’s dressed the likes of Miss Universe 2015 Pia Wurtzbach-Jauncey and Bollywood superstar Aishwarya Rai—is best known for his meticulous detailing and love of drapery. In fact, he calls it his signature look.

“It’s an age-old technique in fashion design that continuously evolves,” Bumgarner says. “Understanding the nature and movement of a fabric, as well as how it complements the body, is a crucial aspect of the art of draping.”

In many of his designs—whether for bridal or evening wear— Bumgarner makes the female form the focus, emphasising the waist and elongating the body with flowing elements.

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Tatler Asia
Above Model Kylie Verzosa on the opening day of Cannes Film Festival 2023 (Photo: courtesy of Mark Bumgarner)

Take, for example, the looks he designed for Wurtzbach-Jauncy and Filipino actress Kylie Verzosa’s recent looks at the 2023 Cannes Film Festival, regarded by Bumgarner as some of his proudest achievements to date: the former’s elegant black corset dress with balloon sleeves and the latter’s dramatic black balloon skirt adorned with feathers. Bumgarner likes to play with proportions, and his fans are here for it.

He takes inspiration, too, from his experiences of the world.

“I draw inspiration primarily from my travels,” he tells Tatler. “It’s exciting to see the distinct trends and perceptions of beauty [that come] from each place I get to visit. Travelling not only opens my eyes to the world’s vast beauty and style, but it also fuels my passion to explore and create.”

When he’s not seeing the sights or showing his collections at Paris Fashion Week—he first showed in the French capital in 2018—Bumgarner can be found innovating in his studio. He’s currently experimenting with UV-sensitive dyes, trialling an exciting technique that can cause fabrics to change colour under varying lighting conditions.

“This innovative concept is interesting to me for its practical applications,” he says. Of course, it will also give his wearers a truly unique piece of clothing, something of a rarity in a world where trends come as quickly as they go.

“My fashion philosophy has always revolved around timeless beauty, and elegance with a modern take,” Bumgarner says. “While my fundamental philosophy has remained unchanged over the years, I have evolved my techniques, which in turn has influenced my approach to design. Embracing and learning new techniques and pushing the boundaries of creativity are constant challenges creative individuals face to push forward and stay relevant in their field.”

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Tatler Asia
Above Miss Universe Philippines winner Michelle Dee (Photo: courtesy of Mark Bumgarner)

As a proud Filipino designer, Bumgarner believes that incorporating new techniques should go hand in hand with preserving local legacies. “I believe the revitalisation of our shared interest in local weaves and fabrics is an exciting moment in our industry,” he says. “Embracing our heritage through incorporating these textiles into our collections not only fosters a sense of national identity but also generates employment opportunities for indigenous communities.”

That’s not to say that he believes in letting design stagnate; for him, it’s all about evolving. “What keeps the industry interesting to me is its never-ending evolution of style,” he says. “While fashion may follow cyclical patterns, it is the infusion of innovation that truly makes it exciting and challenging.”

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