Cover We take a look into the fashion world's unapologetic affinity for nostalgic trends
We take a look into the fashion world's unapologetic affinity for nostalgic trends
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Spongebob Squarepants at Milan Fashion Week? Say more. In this article, we delve into the fashion world’s unapologetic affinity for nostalgic trends
The fashion industry is no stranger to the whims of nostalgia. On the contrary, it thrives on it. For years, we’ve been witnessing some of our most recognisable childhood toys, cartoon characters and memorabilia emblazoned on the products of our favourite luxury brands. From Moschino’s brief venture into Bikini Bottom to Pokémon’s playdate with Fendi, high-end brands and designers are integrating playful aesthetics and pop culture references into one collection after the other. And we’re eating it up—one drop at a time.
The nostalgia trend sees luxury brands from Tiffany & Co. to Off-White feature familiar characters, such as the playful casts of Sanrio and Pokémon, on some of their signature pieces. Think Hello Kitty’s adorably nonchalant likeness on a Balenciaga bag or a diminutive Tamagotchi pendant in 14-carat gold. It serves as both commentary on the industry and a clever, less serious method of navigating the lofty standards of high fashion.
See also: Catch ’em all: Fendi reveals a quirky collaboration with Pokémon and Fragment Design
Above A model walks the runway at the Moschino fashion show at Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Autumn/Winter 2014 (Photo: Jacopo Raule/Getty Images)
Above A model walks the runway at the Moschino Spring Summer 2015 fashion show during Milan Fashion Week (Photo: Catwalking/Getty Images)
A model walks the runway at the Moschino fashion show at Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Autumn/Winter 2014 (Photo: Jacopo Raule/Getty Images)
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While subscribing to the nostalgic revival is not a new tactic when it comes to the creative choices of these fashion designers, we can recognise that it is more than a tribute to the past. They challenge the traditional, high-art notions of these otherwise ‘unattainable’ brands, therefore appealing to a newer and younger generation of fashion consumers. It just also happens that Millennials, who had grown up with these characters, are now the leading customer groups of luxury items, with members of Gen Z sure to follow suit.
Playful irreverence seems to be the key to capturing the consumer’s attention. Take Jeremy Scott’s approach to Moschino. His tongue-in-cheek aesthetic was informed by his childhood fascinations while growing up in the late ‘80s and early ‘90s. His penchant for incorporating nostalgia into his work also ended up with Spongebob Squarepants on the runway of Milan Fashion Week in 2014 and Barbie during Moschino’s spring/summer 2015 show. It’s this kind of disruptive attitude that invites spectators to explore brand-new perspectives of how they view luxury fashion.
More from Tatler: Adidas Samba: The story of an ‘it-shoe’
Above FENDI x FRGMT x POKEMON SLG Dragonite (Photo: Fendi)
FENDI x FRGMT x POKEMON SLG Dragonite (Photo: Fendi)
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Last year, Fendi released a collaboration with Pokémon and Hiroshi Fujiwara’s FRGMT as a part of their ‘Friends of Fendi’ initiative. The collection featured Dragon-type Pokémon on an array of bags and leather goods. Other examples include Barbie, whose 2023 blockbuster film had half the world’s population dressed in bright pink.
The iconic blonde plastic doll debuted a capsule collection with Balmain back in January 2022, which featured a choice of accessories and a pair of monogrammed pink leggings. Gucci released a Doraemon-themed capsule collection in celebration of Lunar New Year 2021, which consisted of over 50 items, from coats to bags depicting the likeness of the beloved blue cat.
Even the jewellery sphere has made room for these characters. Tiffany & Co.’s collaboration with contemporary artist Daniel Arsham and The Pokémon Company featured Pikachu as a pendant decked out in 18-carat yellow gold with diamond accents, packaged in a Tiffany Blue Poké Ball.
Ashram remarked, “... We’ve recontextualised Pokémon to orchestrate a new narrative. With Pokémon and Tiffany, itself, there’s a sense of cultural permanence about each.”
Above Doraemon x Gucci (Photo: Gucci)
Above Hello Kitty x Balenciaga (Photo: Balenciaga)
Doraemon x Gucci (Photo: Gucci)
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The nostalgia trend reshapes the way these designers engage with their audiences. The presence of these identifiers allows both artist and spectator to explore the deep significance of the items they consume both in past and present contexts.
No matter the consumer’s intention, each purchase is a recollection of afternoons spent watching cartoons and playing with action figures. At the same, the designer revisits the narratives of their childhood, exploring the creative possibilities within the field of fashion as they apply these notions into their creations.
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About
Julianna has been interested in leading a literary life since she first read Frances Hodgson Burnett's A Little Princess at eight. Before working with Tatler, she was an archive intern at The Center for Fiction in Brooklyn, New York. She is a textbook Pisces who devotes most of her spare time to her crochet projects, watching classic films, and going through her never-ending pile of unread books. She studied creative writing, global literature and art history at Sarah Lawrence College, graduating with a Bachelor of Arts degree in 2022. Toni Morrison, Nora Ephron, Clarice Lispector and Jia Tolentino are among her all-time favourite writers.
Work
Julianna writes about fashion, beauty, sustainability, and the arts. She is always keen on conducting interviews with talented women who are changing the game in their respective fields.
For event invites and story leads, hit her up at julianna.cabili@tatlerasia.com
