For our Ladies Who Lead series, the female founders of thriving global fashion labels share their journeys in design and their learnings along the way. Here, Rejina Pyo, London-based founder of her eponymous contemporary womenswear label, discusses milestones in her brand's journey as well as the gender and racial bias she has faced along the way, and why going with her gut has been the secret to her success
How did you come to start your own label?
From a young age, I learned how to sew and began designing my own creations in my mother's Seoul-based design studio. Having my own brand was always my dream, and as I pored over magazines and fashion shows, I recognised that many prominent designers hailed from Central St Martins (CSM) in London. I decided to apply, but when I moved to London I didn’t speak a lot of English and it was a very tough and intense programme. While CSM developed my strengths as a designer, we didn’t learn much about the business side of things. When I first started I had to learn the hard way about production, PR, sales, wholesale, and marketing all by myself. The first years were incredibly challenging, but slowly the company started to grow.
What are some turning points in your journey thus far?
There have been several turning points for my brand over the years. The first was when our SS17 collection garnered attention from major stockists and caught the eye of street style influencers. This marked a turning point, elevating our brand visibility and attracting a broader audience. Our first runway show was another milestone. We curated the casting to include friends, artists, and musicians, infusing a personal touch that resonated with our ethos of inclusivity and diversity.
Recently, we hosted a successful pop-up event in my hometown of Seoul. This event held profound personal significance for me, and it reinforced the importance of engaging with our community, wherever they may be. And excitingly, we have just celebrated the first anniversary of our flagship London store in Soho, which I now regularly visit to contribute to displays, host meetings and events, and gather feedback from our fantastic team.
See also: Perfect Moment’s Jane Gottschalk on how failure breeds success
Were there any specific challenges you faced as a woman or specifically a woman of colour along the way?
Sadly, racial bias has become so normalised I sometimes didn't question the countless occasions I found myself on the receiving end of it in the UK, and in this industry. As a woman and particularly as a woman of colour, there were moments when I felt the weight of stereotypes and biases, whether subtle or overt. Breaking through preconceived notions and carving out a space for myself demanded resilience and determination. It's crucial to acknowledge and address the broader, systemic issues in our industry to ensure a more inclusive and equitable environment for all individuals, regardless of their gender or race.
In hindsight, what is something you wish you knew that could have helped you?
In a way, had I known how difficult it would be to found and build a fashion brand, I might never have embarked upon it, so I am glad I didn’t know that; the naivety helped in a way. As for something that might have helped, I wish I’d known the importance of having a strong business mind within the brand to manage that side of things, as I didn’t have that in the early days.