Cover A look inside the private preview for Jor-el Espina’s ‘20 Design Anthologies’ (Photo: courtesy of Before Deadlines)
A look inside the private preview for Jor-el Espina’s ‘20 Design Anthologies’ (Photo: courtesy of Before Deadlines)
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Filipino designer Jor-el Espina marks two decades in fashion with ‘20 Design Anthologies’, a gala collection that blends maximalist vision with cultural roots
Two decades in fashion is no small measure, and for Jor-el Espina, a designer who began in Iloilo creating bespoke gowns for his earliest clients, the milestone arrives in grand form. This October 24, he stages 20 Design Anthologies, a sweeping 60-piece collection that embodies his fascination with volume, detail and extravagance. Presented at the Shangri-La The Fort, Manila as part of the Bahaghari Charity Gala, the show culminates a year-long journey of collaborations, capsule lines and creative encounters leading to his 20th year.
The countdown began in August 2024 with Adaptation, a capsule of art deco-inspired pieces infused with Philippine fabrics, drapery and embroidery. By December, Espina unveiled a 120-square-metre atelier in Makati, envisioned as a sanctuary for collaboration. “We wanted more than a showroom,” he explained. “It had to be a space where ideas could flourish.”
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Above A closer look at Jor-el Espina’s designs at ‘20 Design Anthologies’ (Photo: courtesy of Before Deadlines)
Above The runway at the private preview for Jor-el Espina’s ‘20 Design Anthologies’ (Photo: courtesy of Before Deadlines)
A closer look at Jor-el Espina’s designs at ‘20 Design Anthologies’ (Photo: courtesy of Before Deadlines)
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March 2025 saw his designs enter the stage of Ballet Philippines for Ang Panaginip. Costuming for the company’s season-ender was, for him, a milestone in marrying functionality with elegance. “Ballet resonates with me because it is storytelling in motion,” Espina reflected. Later, at ArteFino in August, he honoured his design kinship with Patis Tesoro. The immersion deepened his sense of craftsmanship and reaffirmed his inclination toward vibrancy and intricacy—qualities that have defined his work for two decades.
Now, in 20 Design Anthologies, Espina pulls no punches. Eveningwear takes centre stage, amplified by barrel pants under diaphanous tunics, corseted tops with sculpted hips, tulip skirts paired with paillet blouses and a palette of jewel tones that glow with old-world glamour. The collection embraces fringe, embroidery, coloured shells and mother-of-pearl embellishments, all heightened by jewellery from DiaGold. “This collection is my playground,” he said. “It recalls my love for detail, for exploring what Filipino dress can become.”
Related: Inside the making of ‘Heirloom’, a collection by Jor-El Espina in tribute to Patis Tesoro
Above The runway at the private preview for Jor-el Espina’s ‘20 Design Anthologies’ (Photo: courtesy of Before Deadlines)
Above A closer look at Jor-el Espina’s designs at ‘20 Design Anthologies’ (Photo: courtesy of Before Deadlines)
The runway at the private preview for Jor-el Espina’s ‘20 Design Anthologies’ (Photo: courtesy of Before Deadlines)
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Espina’s maximalist instinct has been a through-line since his early days, tempered only when he moved into ready-to-wear. His 2017 ArteFino debut signalled a new chapter with contemporary reinterpretations of traditional garments, from the bombarong to tapis skirts. Still, the grandeur of his bespoke beginnings lingers, resurfacing in full force for this twentieth-year anthology.
Beyond the spectacle, the anniversary carries a philanthropic core. The gala is staged in partnership with the Philippine Financial and Inter-industry Pride (PFIP) to support the Rainbow Youth Academy Scholarship Program, which provides representation for LGBTQIA+ youth. For Espina, the collaboration is deeply personal. “Education is vital,” he said. “As part of the community myself, I see this as a way of contributing to its future.”
As the lights rise on 20 Design Anthologies, the collection reads as more than a celebration of longevity. It is a reminder that Filipino design (layered, ornate, unapologetically bold) can embrace both heritage and modernity while carving out space for inclusion. Espina, after 20 years, continues to design with movement, memory and meaning stitched into every detail.
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Angela Nicole Regis Guiral is the assistant digital editor of Tatler Philippines. She studied journalism and has since written features that look closely at how culture, lifestyle and social impact converge, while occasionally wandering into the worlds of style and travel.
