‘House of Gucci’: Fashion Worn By Gucci Men and The Stories Behind It
Nothing speaks volumes like visual cues. Tatler looks at the fashion of two fathers and two sons in House of Gucci to learn more about their characters, their traits and their intentions in the upcoming film.
Before we get into it, we just need to talk about this photo of Jeremy Irons at the House of Gucci premiere in New York. Prior to this evening, he’d been sporting classic red carpet looks—neutral suits, slick waistcoats and chic scarves. This recent look is a statement, and the effect is like that of Lady Gaga’s purple gown flourish.
The coat is very Duke Leto of House Atreides á lá Dune, the bottom half is giving “cool autumnal auntie ” and the crochet cap is so trendy we’re expecting Bella Hadid to wear one tomorrow. Was this the work of a stylist, or was Irons just feeling adventurous?
Either way, Irons has always had a bold streak, and that’s what his character, Rodolfo Gucci represents. He joined the family business in 1953 when his father, Guccio Gucci passed away, and eventually divided the business with his older brother Aldo.
As a middle child, and an actor in his younger years, the three-piece mustard suit he wears lies on the cusp of neutral and striking—creative, but not without responsibility. In the film he’s often depicted wearing neck accessories, in this instance a patterned scarf (perhaps a nod to the Gucci Flora scarf he created for actress Grace Kelly) and large, thick frames that would inspire his son, Maurizio, to follow in his footsteps.
Adam Driver plays Maurizio Gucci, Rodolfo’s only son at the core of all the drama in this film. He was made chairman of the Gucci group in 1989, despite not having a background in business, because he’d inherited his father’s majority stake in the company and thus became the largest shareholder. This power and influence contributed to the economic downfall of Gucci, and perhaps, his eventual murder.
Throughout the film, he’s often seen in large suits in neutral tones styled with brighter shirts and accessories. The oversized fit is a reference to the trends of the 80's, the neutral tones reflect his shift to a serious position with greater stakes, but the lighter details signify his youth and naivety.
Aldo Gucci, played by the legendary Al Pacino, was the eldest brother at the helm of the company. He joined when he was just 20 and spent three decades establishing and expanding the Gucci name, even helping to open the first Gucci shop in New York in 1952.
Aldo’s extreme involvement in the company is represented by his classic and muted suit styles. He sticks to a colour palette of brown, beige and black, and wears complementary accessories—representative of the early years of Gucci and its history in leather goods. It’s all to say that he’s a man of hard work and tradition, and there’s little room for flair in that.
At the opposite end of the spectrum is Paolo Gucci, Aldo’s son, portrayed by Jared Leto. His father’s involvement allowed him to get a head start in the family business, but that might be what gave him a sharp edge. In 1980, Paolo attempted to launch his own brand using the Gucci name, but his father disagreed, sued his son and threatened any vendor from working with him.
In retaliation, Paolo removed Aldo from the company (with the help of Maurizio) and tipped off the IRS about his father’s tax evasion. These bold moves are symbolised with his bolder fashion choices, as seen by his raspberry pink suit and other daring print choices.