MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 25: Jin attends the Gucci - Women's Fall/Winter 2025/2026 Fashion Show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2025/2026 on February 25, 2025 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for Gucci)
Cover BTS大哥Jin現身Gucci 秀場。(Photo: Gucci)
MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 25: Jin attends the Gucci - Women's Fall/Winter 2025/2026 Fashion Show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2025/2026 on February 25, 2025 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for Gucci)

這場以「sprezzatura」為名的大秀,既是對 Gucci 經典元素的致敬,也是一場品牌風格過渡期的探索。

在得知上任不到兩年的前任創意總監Sabato de Sarno的突然離職消息後,不到一個月這場2025秋冬大秀就舉行了,這場大秀由品牌工作室團隊設計,董事長兼執行長的 François-Henri Pinault 說道:「Gucci將會回歸。我對此絕對毫不懷疑!」Gucci 正站在歷史的交叉點上。這場大秀雖然不是大膽革新的風格,卻為品牌提供了一個穩健的轉型基礎。而最明顯的,就是來自網友的熱烈討論:「似乎是變漂亮了」讓全球時尚界都在關注品牌的下一步動向。

延伸閱讀:2025秋冬時裝周即將開跑:米蘭時裝周迎來Fendi的100周年紀念秀、Saint Laurent將在巴黎時裝周以壓軸畫下完美句點!
 

1. BTS Jin 強勢助陣,Gucci 2025 秋冬大秀備受矚目

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MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 25: Jin attends the Gucci - Women's Fall/Winter 2025/2026 Fashion Show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2025/2026 on February 25, 2025 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for Gucci)
Above BTS Jin
MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 25: Jin attends the Gucci - Women's Fall/Winter 2025/2026 Fashion Show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2025/2026 on February 25, 2025 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for Gucci)
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MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 25: Julia Garner attends the Gucci - Women's Fall/Winter 2025/2026 Fashion Show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2025/2026 on February 25, 2025 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for Gucci)
Above Julia Garner
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MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 25: Austin Lin attends the Gucci - Women's Fall/Winter 2025/2026 Fashion Show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2025/2026 on February 25, 2025 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for Gucci)
Above 林柏宏
MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 25: Julia Garner attends the Gucci - Women's Fall/Winter 2025/2026 Fashion Show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2025/2026 on February 25, 2025 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for Gucci)
MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 25: Austin Lin attends the Gucci - Women's Fall/Winter 2025/2026 Fashion Show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2025/2026 on February 25, 2025 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for Gucci)
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MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 25: Sean Xiao attends the Gucci - Women's Fall/Winter 2025/2026 Fashion Show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2025/2026 on February 25, 2025 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for Gucci)
Above 肖戰
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MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 25: Lee Jung-jae attends the Gucci - Women's Fall/Winter 2025/2026 Fashion Show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2025/2026 on February 25, 2025 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for Gucci)
Above 李政宰
MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 25: Sean Xiao attends the Gucci - Women's Fall/Winter 2025/2026 Fashion Show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2025/2026 on February 25, 2025 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for Gucci)
MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 25: Lee Jung-jae attends the Gucci - Women's Fall/Winter 2025/2026 Fashion Show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2025/2026 on February 25, 2025 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for Gucci)

Gucci 於米蘭時裝週發表全新秋冬系列,而韓國超人氣男團防彈少年團(BTS)成員 Jin 、林柏宏、李政宰、肖戰等大明星驚喜現身秀場,成為當天媒體焦點。作為品牌大使的 Jin,一身經典 Gucci 造型出席,不僅展現其個人魅力,也為品牌帶來更多年輕世代的關注。

2. Gucci 2025 秋冬系列:品牌在變革中尋找平衡

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Gucci 近年來經歷了多次重大變革。自 2022 年 Alessandro Michele 離開後,Sabato De Sarno 接任創意總監,試圖讓品牌回歸極簡與優雅,但這一策略在商業表現上未達預期。他的離任使 Gucci 進一步進入品牌定位調整期,而本季由內部設計團隊所策劃的系列,成為品牌「過渡時期」的重要作品。這場大秀並未急於建立全新的風格,而是選擇在復古與現代之間游移,展現出一種多層次、混合性的設計語彙。

3. 復古回歸:50-90 年代風格的時光交錯

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2025 秋冬系列以 1950 年代至 1990 年代的設計元素為靈感,試圖從 Gucci 豐富的歷史資料庫中尋找新的創作語言。設計團隊將品牌標誌性的 1970 年代風格重新演繹,以更現代的剪裁與用色搭配,創造出既復古又符合當代潮流的造型。本季關鍵元素包括了1950 年代的經典輪廓:強調腰線的西裝外套、優雅的大衣剪裁。1970 年代的華麗復古:絲巾、棒球帽搭配金屬色皮革外套,帶來時尚惡棍(fashion villain)的氛圍。1990 年代的簡約街頭風:極簡風格的修身長褲、短版夾克與厚底皮鞋,融入年輕世代的街頭元素。在配色上,本季除了經典的 黑色、駝色、棕色 外,也加入 酸性綠、奶油黃與金屬黑,賦予復古風格更多現代感。

4. 標誌性符碼重現:Interlocking G 50 週年

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2025 年適逢 Gucci 經典 Interlocking G 標誌誕生 50 週年,品牌也在本季特別強調這一重要標誌。在大秀現場,圍繞著綠色環形舞台的 Interlocking G 設計,象徵品牌過去與未來的交織,暗示 Gucci 在尋求風格演進時,仍未脫離其品牌精神。在本季設計中,Interlocking G、馬銜鍊被大量運用於配件與服飾印花,標誌性 Logo 出現在絲巾、皮包與腰帶上。而金屬扣環與包款裝飾呈現更現代感。

5. 服裝亮點:極簡對決極繁,創造新時代 Gucci 風格

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本季服裝展現了一種「極簡對決極繁」的風格,設計團隊巧妙地將兩者並置,創造出新的 Gucci 語言。極簡風格以修長剪裁的大衣與西裝,簡單俐落,呼應品牌在 90 年代的優雅。黑色與駝色的低調奢華,展現極簡美學的高級感。衝突感的極繁主義則是以華麗的金屬刺繡、流蘇裝飾,展現 70 年代的奢華風格。拼接材質與不對稱剪裁,強調視覺層次!最令人驚艷的則是帶有哥德式元素的黑色皮革與蕾絲!

6. Gucci 未來何去何從?新任創意總監之謎

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當大秀結束後,設計團隊集體登場致意,象徵這場秀是品牌集體努力的成果。然而,這也讓外界更加關心,Gucci 的未來將何去何從?時尚圈目前熱議的 Gucci 創意總監候選人包括了Hedi Slimane、Maria Grazia Chiuri、John Galliano。無論最終人選為何,Gucci 目前的銷售表現與品牌形象都處於轉折點。作為 Kering 集團的核心品牌,Gucci 必須在傳承與創新之間找到平衡,期待Gucci 的未來!

Keira Lu
Fashion Editor, Tatler Taiwan
Tatler Asia
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Keira Lu

Fashion Editor, Taiwan

keira.lu@tatlerasia.com