Streetwear pioneer Earn Chen and fashion designer Nicolette Yip of The Salvages on creating fashion that stands the test of time. The secret? A punk rock attitude, and flirting with the past

From ever-changing trends to the barrage of style content on social media platforms, fashion can be a fickle beast. But Singapore-based fashion label The Salvages has done what many brands can only hope to do, which is to remain relevant and respected in an ever-evolving industry. According to its co-founders, Earn Chen and Nicolette Yip, it all comes down to knowing who you are, who you want to connect with, and having something to say—“Not just making noise,” says Yip.

“Fashion is a cycle. What goes up has to come down, and we’re more focused on a slow growth,” says Chen. “To us, that’s more meaningful and sustainable. We don’t have to constantly be in a rat race, or be the most famous brand. We just do authentic things and our tribe will find us.”

Yip elaborates: “It’s great to keep your eyes open to what’s around you but you also have to put on your blinders and focus on your story, your journey. It’s good to have a clear vision of your work, but also necessary to understand that it’s a constantly evolving process. I liken it to building and envisioning a character’s personality. How will this character grow and change over a lifetime, but still have its core values and habits? It’s about learning to adapt for the right reasons and remembering those principles.”

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Above Photo: The Salvages
Tatler Asia
Above Photo: The Salvages

When I ask her to describe The Salvages as a character, Yip does so without missing a beat. “I see [this character] as androgynous … a non-gender person that loves music, that’s edgy and opinionated. It’s neither young nor old, but always young at heart. It has lots of spirit and is very bold,” she says.

“And also very romantic,” Chen chimes in.

Over the last six years, The Salvages has evolved from producing simple logo tees to becoming an intimate peek into the design mind of its founders—be it odes to icons of punk rock, to lessons in art history. In late 2020, the brand produced a line of T-shirts featuring photographs taken by Mary Ellen Mark, who was known for documenting individuals and subcultures that exist on the fringes of society—not dissimilar to the kind of ragtag cool kids that have become The Salvages’ “tribe”.

This spring saw the introduction of a capsule collection, Dressing for Pleasure, featuring artwork by John Willie, a British artist and fetish photographer who rose to prominence in 1950s. “He was actually born in Singapore,” Yip tells me. When we meet, she’s wearing a piece from the collection—a black tee with a neon yellow graphic of thigh-high, corset-laced boots.

Chen is wearing one of their older pieces, dubbed the Space Rock tee, emblazoned with a retro sci-fi graphic. “I like things to be well used and worn in, whether it’s jeans, a leather jacket, or T-shirts to the point where the ink is starting to break,” he says. “I tend to wear items like that. I’ll wash it, wear it to sleep, wear it out. It gives it more character.”

Good art, good design is cool for the season. But great design is timeless.

- Earn Chen -

The Salvages wasn’t always an apparel brand. In its inception, it was a platform for Chen to sell his impressive collection of archival pieces by the likes of Jean Paul Gaultier, Raf Simons and Helmut Lang. It caught the attention of stars such as Kanye West and A$AP Rocky, who reached out on occasion to get their hands on Chen’s coveted designer pieces.

The Salvages then began producing T-shirts just for fun, as merchandise for friends and fans of the brand. Almost overnight, they became a collectible luxury in their own right. Yip has also dabbled in footwear with The Salvages’ Banshee, a modern take on the brothel creeper silhouette, crafted from premium Italian materials.

In July, the pair took a trip down memory lane in a collaboration with Japanese fashion label, Old Park, producing unique hand-cut pieces reconstructed from The Salvages archival T-shirts. “It was really fun going through our archives and remembering the things we’ve done, and seeing it in a new form,” says Yip of the collection.

Chen agrees, “It was great to give those pieces a second life.”

“The success of our collections was super organic,” says Yip. “When we made the logo and our first tees, they were just meant to market Earn’s upcycled pieces.”

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Above Nicolette Yip and Earn Chen

In fact, Chen was just 12 years old when he saved up for his first major fashion purchase—a pleated beige Issey Miyake turtleneck. “Thanks to my older siblings, I had a lot of exposure to fashion, especially Japanese brands,” says Chen.

Yip indulged in similar fashion influences during her time studying at Lasalle College of the Arts. “Collections by Japanese or Belgian designers were my fashion bible growing up. Designers like Martin Margiela, and Issey Miyake—rest in peace—had so much personality, and great craftsmanship,” she says.

In the nineties, Chen became a pioneer in Singapore’s burgeoning streetwear scene. His multi-label boutique Ambush, in Far East Plaza, carried cult labels like Gimme 5. Then he opened Surrender at Raffles Hotel Arcade, which became the first store in Southeast Asia to carry pieces by Japanese heavy hitters such as Visvim and Neighborhood.

“Back then, the line between streetwear and luxury was very clear,” says Chen. “Then in the late nineties and early 2000s, people started mixing it up, like wearing Nikes with Louis Vuitton, which was cool. Before that, those worlds had never crossed paths in fashion history. Now, most head designers for luxury brands have backgrounds in streetwear, like [artistic director for Dior Men and Fendi] Kim Jones.”

Next, the duo says they are moving into the art and music spaces. With Yip honing her skills as a DJ, and Chen working on a few projects that he’s keeping tight-lipped about. At least for now.

All we know is they’ll be taking the spirit of The Salvages with them wherever they go, and in whatever they do next—doing what feels authentic, and blocking out the noise of the masses.

“For me, good art, good design is cool for the season,” says Chen. “But great design is timeless.”

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