Cover Crafting the perfect tuxedo for modern black tie occasions like the Tatler Ball with Common Suits

For a bespoke tuxedo, fitting for the Tatler Ball 2024, I enlist Javin They, owner of Common Suits, to stitch up something that truly reflects paradise and power

Jon Hamm as Don Draper in the hit period drama Mad Men. Mads Mikkelsen as Hannibal Lecter in Hannibal. Daniel Craig as James Bond in Skyfall. Marlon Brando as Don Vito Corleone in The Godfather. What do these figures have in common? As this self-indulgent cinephile will tell you, they know how to show up and turn heads with a proper tuxedo that matches the occasion.

And befitting an occasion as opulent as the Tatler Ball, I enlist Javin They, founder of Common Suits, for the perfect tuxedo, fitting to modern black tie occasions.

Read more: Ready, set, ball: 7 essential steps to get ready for Tatler Ball 2024

This year, the ball’s theme is Xanadu, inspired by Samuel Taylor Coleridge’s poem, Kubla Khan. The Tatler Ball is a night where trailblazers and tastemakers toast to shaping an impactful, idyllic world in black-tie fashion—so ditch the rollerskates because it won’t be Olivia Newton-John’s disco-fuelled special.

To accompany the evening’s allure, utopic and divine style inspirations are essential. But with Sandro Botticelli’s The Birth of Venus, archival Alexander McQueen, and Zuhair Murad, tossed into reference for the female silhouette, I seek inspiration from the big screens instead.

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Above Javin They is the founder of Common Suits

I have long fancied tailoring influences from the English, Italians, and French: think masculine shoulder lines and the drapings of a well-structured Saville-Row jacket; warm-weather friendly construction and flattering silhouettes from Neapolitan tailoring; and the authoritative roped shoulder from Parisian tailoring. Upon meeting They, I learnt that Common Suits’ unique tailoring philosophy is a clever fuse of the above three tailoring influences to craft bespoke suits lined with a distinctly Southeast Asian flair.

The shoe fits, if there is anyone who’d transform me—from the neck down, of course—into a sartorial icon, it’d be They.

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Above The initial construction process of a dummy suit
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Above A master tailor at work in Common Suits

Stepping into the boutique along Telok Ayer Street, an ambrosial scent of bright citrus and soft musk, and the occasional hum of the sewing machine signifies the start of my bespoke journey. It is a process that is as much about personal expression as it is about craftsmanship—what may be a conscious dialogue about your very own style and comfort.

From selecting breathable materials designed specifically for Southeast Asia’s humid climate to customising lapels that could make James Bond green with envy, every detail is meticulously considered in each fitting.

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Above Past samples depicting the evolution of the Common Suits design since its inception

Gone are the days when velvet tuxedos were only meant for chilly weather. “We want to overcome the obstacle of dressing up in a hot climate,” shares They, who founded Common Suits two weeks after graduating from NUS with a Bachelor of Business Administration degree in 2014. The evolution of their designs has been remarkable, as observed from past samples.

“From 2014 to today, our jackets have become lighter and more breathable,” the founder notes proudly while demonstrating superior breathability by spraying fine mist through a piece of fabric. “Customers are shocked to find a proper suit that maintains its elegance while being so light.”

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Above They and I plot to customise a lapel that could make James Bond green with envy

While most would agree that Singapore is too hot to wear a suit—more so a velvet tuxedo, the Common Suits blend means one can enjoy the structure and elegance of a well-tailored garment without feeling like a session in the sauna. Every suit also features full canvas construction, where no glue is involved, preventing unsightly bubbling over time. “A full canvas encourages longevity,” explains They, doubling down on his commitment to craftsmanship combined with innovative design.

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Above Common Suits ranks as one of the top Loro Piana textile clients globally
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Above They interacts with his staff of tailors behind the scenes

Now, let’s talk colours. One will cherry-pick from a lavish myriad of fabric options, each with its own story. They advised on midnight navy instead of the classic piano black because why settle? “This fabric by Loro Piana is 340 grams and has a nice sheen,” They affirm as he holds up the midnight navy option against the light. “It falls sharply and cleanly, perfect for events like the Tatler Ball.” I take his word for it. After all, Common Suits ranks as one of the top Loro Piana textile clients globally.

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Above Common Suits’ signature buttons are inspired by Singapore’s iconic one-dollar coin

Even the buttons have a story to tell. Inspired by Singapore’s iconic one-dollar coin—which is believed to bring luck—the buttons on the suit are more than just functional as they symbolise prosperity and good fortune. “When we tell this story to our Western customers, they find it fascinating,” They shared with a grin. However, my tuxedo will sport a satin black button, to maintain the integrity of a classic.

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Above Laser technology is harnessed to decipher body irregularities which They will remedy with specific tailoring techniques to achieve the perfect fit

The makings of a perfect tuxedo boils down to getting the right measurements. However, with individual body types, things don’t always go according to cookie-cutter measurements. Instead, Common Suits takes no prisoners with its mathematical scientific approach, conducting over 40 precise measurements, including laser technology. This fastidious attitude of going beyond the standard ensures that every Common Suits garment is indeed a bespoke piece.

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Photo 1 of 3 A final look on the night of the Tatler Ball 2024 (Photo: Darren Gabriel Leow)
Photo 2 of 3 Close ups on the Tatler Ball 2024 velvet tuxedo in midnight navy
Photo 3 of 3 Close ups on the Tatler Ball 2024 velvet tuxedo in midnight navy

After a consultation and two fitting sessions, within the span of six weeks, the final product reveals itself. The velvet tuxedo jacket in midnight navy is stylishly understated but dramatic under light: sporting the Common Suits house style of larger-than-life peak lapels; a flattering cinch on the waist; and commanding roped shoulder.

The high-waisted tuxedo pants drape beautifully, and falls clean and sharp, while the cotton bib shirt, with a wing-tipped collar and French cuffs, is constructed to a tee. Paradise, purpose and power are all encapsulated. Praise the brilliance of They and his team at Common Suits, for I am now ready for the Tatler Ball.

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Above The Common Suits experience is also about creating connections between the like-minded

On the dias, the honourees are celebrated with thunderous applause. But I arrive upon a moment of introspection and clarity amidst the fete, that perhaps what truly sets the Common Suits experience apart from its competition is its sense of community and camaraderie among its clients. It isn’t all about selling suits but rather, creating connections through shared experiences between the like-minded. As They explain with conviction, “We want our customers to feel like they’re part of something special—a movement towards premium Southeast Asian tailoring.”

Alas, I am proud to say that the bespoke tuxedo I am in is far from just a common suit.

Credits

Photography: Melvin Wong

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