Cover Hermès outfits (Image: Midjourney; Photography: Affa Chan / Tatler Asia)

This month, Tatler harnesses the power of AI for a fashion spread that fuses physical fashion with Midjourney-generated models and settings. The creative minds behind the project discuss the process

Social media has become a playground for artists to create their own AI-generated imagery—from the Harry Potter films reimagined in the style of Balenciaga to characters from The Matrix franchise restyled with Gucci sunglasses, these imaginative creations have exploded online recently. Even in Hong Kong, fashion retailer I.T has launched a commercial campaign incorporating AI technology with real photography captured by local photographer, Leungmo. 

Some AI tools, like DALL-E 2, Midjourney, and Stable Diffusion, are capable of producing images, while others, such as ChatGPT, have the ability to generate text. Meanwhile, some, like Runway, can even create videos. Which all led us to wonder: what will AI mean for fashion? Can generative AI replace human photography? Is it possible to carry out a fashion shoot with the power of AI? Can fashion shoots be boundless now? These are some of the things that we addressed while planning the fashion shoot for our July issue, themed around Innovation. 

Jacqueline Tsang, our regional head of content and editor-in-chief for Hong Kong, interviewed Cherry Mui, our regional fashion director, about her inspiration behind the project and to reflect upon the whole process.

Read more: 5 AI apps that will help you harness your creativity 

Tatler Asia
Above Loewe outfits (Image: Midjourney; Photography: Affa Chan / Tatler Asia)

Tell us about the idea and how did it start? 
In fashion, Zara, Gucci and other brands have been experimenting with AI technology in their business models, and have even been creating campaigns using AI-generated backgrounds.

At Tatler, we were thinking about how to incorporate this technology into our creative execution and why doing it now would be a good time—particularly in the wake of ChatGBT, when everyone’s going crazy about AI-generated content. So our creative director, Miguel Mari took the initiative to start exploring how we can create images using this generative AI app called Midjourney, [which currently has 15 million registered users]. This is how it started. 

In case you missed it: ChatGPT, Midjourney and Dall-E 2: What is the future of AI in education?

Tatler Asia
Above Alexander McQueen dress; Ambush choker (Image: Midjourney; Photography: Affa Chan / Tatler Asia)
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Above Sacai outfit (Image: Midjourney; Photography: Affa Chan / Tatler Asia)
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Above Kev Yiu dress (Image: Midjourney; Photography: Affa Chan / Tatler Asia)
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Above Versace outfits (Image: Midjourney; Photography: Affa Chan / Tatler Asia)

How did you go about it? There have been some horror stories about when people didn’t know how to instruct the AI and then they came up with some freaky pictures. Did you have a similar experience?
Our process was to try to understand [the bot]—how you communicate with it and how to activate the prompts. At one point, we came up with images of people with six fingers and others with octopuses everywhere, which looked like they belonged on the cover of a sci-fi book. We did some really wild experimentations just to understand how it reacts to the text prompts.

We wanted to express fashion through an AI lens, but we also wanted people to wonder if it’s real or fake. Our concept was to use Midjourney to create daily life scenarios with AI-generated models and settings, with the only thing real being the clothes we used for the shoot.

Tatler Asia
Above Gucci outfits (Image: Midjourney; Photography: Affa Chan / Tatler Asia)
Tatler Asia
Above Fendi outfit (Image: Midjourney; Photography: Affa Chan / Tatler Asia)

Tell us about this duality and blurring the boundaries between the mundane and surreal, with the only real element is the fashion. Why was this decision made?
In a magazine [like Tatler], we want to feature outfits from designer brands in every issue. For example, we want to feature a Chanel jacket or a Gucci dress, but Midjourney can’t generate any branded item—be it a Coca-Cola can or a Chanel jacket—because there can be huge issues around image rights and copyrights.

We were thinking of how AI can be used as a tool to carry out a shoot if budget is not a concern. Can we just combine the [generated] photos with real models and clothing [in post production]? One of the biggest challenges we encountered was how to best combine AI and reality, [because] we wanted to keep the fashion element true, we didn’t want to distort real fashion.

Tatler Asia
Above Ferragamo outfits (Image: Midjourney; Photography: Affa Chan / Tatler Asia)
Tatler Asia
Above Ambush earring; Celine bikini tops (Image: Midjourney; Photography: Affa Chan / Tatler Asia)
Tatler Asia
Above Hermès outfits (Image: Midjourney; Photography: Affa Chan / Tatler Asia)
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Above (Image: Midjourney and Tatler Asia)

The legal aspect is a huge concern. When we’re doing shoots, we want to make sure that everything is above board. Tell us about the actual logistics of putting the shoot together.
We spent quite a few sessions just trying to generate the exact backgrounds we wanted, by using different text prompts and arranging them differently. For example, we would use a text prompt like, “a New York rooftop on a rainy day”. You can also adjust the lighting, the camera model and so on in AI to match what our photographer would be using, so that we can recreate the same setting. That was the first step—to narrow it down to the exact images we are recreating.

On the actual production day, we had two models wearing the real clothes in similar silhouettes and sitting in exactly the poses [generated on Midjourney], so the photographer can capture them in the exact same lighting that AI had generated for us. After that we needed to send it back to a retoucher we have been working with overseas to make sure this is doable: to merge photography and AI-generated photos, and cross-check that we can actually combine the physical and the virtual, especially when the whole storytelling is more promoted by the bot than us. So it’s quite an interesting learning process in which the whole team kept revising.

Read more: Is AI art identity theft? What creators want you to know about digitally generated artwork

Tatler Asia
Above Givenchy dress; Celine bralette, jacket (Image: Midjourney; Photography: Affa Chan / Tatler Asia)
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Above Max Mara top; Chanel dress, necklace (Image: Midjourney; Photography: Affa Chan / Tatler Asia)
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Above Prada dress, blazer; Miu Miu dress (Image: Midjourney; Photography: Affa Chan / Tatler Asia)
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Above Dior outfits (Image: Midjourney; Photography: Affa Chan / Tatler Asia)

Looking forward, can you see us further harnessing AI?
Despite the ongoing legal debate, generative AI is still a very strong tool for assisting creative executions. It has proven to be very useful in building visual aids, mock-ups for creative decks or for creating illustrations and generating new layouts for existing photography. And while we are waiting for upgrades in apps such as Midjourney, we really encourage everyone to spend some time with the generative AI of your choice and explore how it could be of help in any creative project you might have.


Watch the making of the fashion shoot below:

Credits

Images  

Midjourney

Photography  

Affa Chan

Styling  

Cherry Mui

Artwork  

Digital Art Studio

Model  

Karina M and Iza @Synergy

Photographer's Assistant  

Daniel Murray

Stylist's Assistant  

Summer Li

Videography  

Naz Lee

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