Behind the Seams: Meet 8 designers redefining the Filipino fashion world

Coming from an artistic family that exposed her to the many aspects of design, Eustacia Rodriguez, better known as Stacy, recalls organising fashion shows for her Barbie dolls and learning how to sew at a young age. She continued exploring her creativity with a foray into styling before launching her first brand, Glasnost. Rodriguez then took up further studies in fashion design at New York’s Parsons School of Design.

Today, she has created three brands under her name: Moda Eustacia for custom wedding packages, gown s and formal wear; Studio Eustacia for ready-to-wear pieces and accessories; and EC, a unisex brand she co-designs with her partner Carlos Del Prado. Pieces from her atelier, Moda Eustacia, are notably bespoke gowns in vibrant jewel tones, accented by ruffles and mixed prints. It is an aesthetic carefully aligned with an inclination for non-traditional silhouettes and unexpected combinations.

Rodriguez believes that it is her knack for all things unusual that sets her apart from other designers. “My style as a fashion designer is eclectic. I enjoy working with lots of vibrant colour, different prints and texture, and incorporating textiles I source from around the world.” She draws much inspiration from her travels.

“Seeing how other creatives work also inspires my work. I always expose myself to all sorts of people and places because I feel that keeping your eyes open is the first step in beautiful design.”

Inspired by the rich craftsmanship of Filipino artisans and informed by childhood nostalgia, Kelvin Morales recognises the potential of bringing local fashion to a global scale. His ambition could very well be looming on the horizon. After taking up Fashion Design and Merchandising at De La Salle-College of Saint Benilde, Morales sought work experience in the design world; however, he had difficulty finding brands that aligned with his vision at the time. Thus, he created his eponymous brand.

Morales aptly describes himself as a storyteller, “I draw inspiration from narrating and creating my characters, settings and vibes for each collection.” His designs straddle the line between masculinity and femininity—a yin and yang equilibrium of strength and elegance. They often reflect elements from memories of youth, intertwining lived experiences with imagined narratives. He also emphasises craftsmanship to promote local Filipino artistry and finds himself drawn to light, sheer and luxurious materials like silk cocoons.

“By mastering the intricacies of different fabrics and experimenting with innovative techniques, we create designs that are not only visually striking but also showcase a level of craftsmanship and creativity that distinguishes us in the fashion industry.”

Both a tennis player and a business degree graduate, Chynna Mamawal found her path to design in a circuitous way. She remembers being drawn to fashion as a child and always felt the urge to stand out through her clothes but her physical excellence also made many think she would pursue a career in sports. She, however, ended up in a corporate job in fashion at SM Retail where she spearheaded a marketing team.

After two years on the job, she went on to study at the Institute of Creative Entrepreneurship. Recalling the trajectory of her fashion career, she states, “I pursued this career because of the transformative power of fashion. It’s not just about the aesthetics but about offering solace and freedom.”

Her work was showcased at Vancouver Fashion Week last April 2023, where her label received the Collection of the Season Award. The art of telling a story is the essence of Mamawal’s craft. Her signature style is drawn from a range of inspirations, from her travels to the personal stories of her clients. While her formal gowns are replete with tulle, beads and feathers, she describes her menswear as modern and minimal while integrating textured fabric for suits.

“When you look at my creations, you can sense right away the importance of authenticity, grace, sophistication and simplicity to achieve true elegance. [You can see it in] the subtlety of my designs, the innate appreciation, attention to quality and visual harmony.”

Born in Iligan City to a Muslim Maranao family, Abdul Gaffar grew up watching his mother sew her own hijab and entertain visits from a personal seamstress. These experiences provided a young Gaffar with his first glimpses of the fashion industry. Discovering the works of Michael Cinco and Alexander McQueen in high school was the push that prompted him to pursue a career in fashion design. At 18, he and his family moved to Manila so that he could attend Slim’s Fashion and Arts School. There, he studied Fashion Design and Dressmaking and was able to take up other courses through scholarship grants.

He incorporates motifs drawn from his background, such as brass embellishments bearing traditional Okir patterns, handwoven inaul, refashioned interpretations of the malong, and folkloric imagery like the sarimanok. Gaffar enjoys working with locally woven fabrics like jusi and piña and emphasises the importance of using these materials not just for nostalgic or historical purposes, but to help keep the local weaving tradition alive and flourishing.

For Gaffar, this exploration of his roots developed a deeper appreciation of his culture. “It was not until I moved to Manila that I realised how beautiful and distinctive my Maranao culture and way of living were.”

See also: At Filipinxt, New York’s Philippine Consulate General places the spotlight on Filipino fashion designers

Renz Reyes knew that he was going to work somewhere creative,
wherever the field. He started out as a graphic designer then went
on to become an embroidery designer for a luxury fashion and lifestyle brand. There, he worked his way up from the lowest design position to becoming head of the team. Reyes won the Bench Design Awards in 2018 and had the chance to show at Tokyo Fashion Week that same year.

His pieces are utilitarian though imbued with an edge of sophistication. Intricate, they require complex construction but appearing seemingly effortless. Repetitive patterns and displays of symmetry showcase his aptitude for embroidery.

He says, “I like to subvert notions of what embroidery could be. I’m always thinking about how it could be different. I love to make casual fabrics feel tailored and dressy while making formal fabrics feel easy and understated. I love denims and twills but adding my own personalised touch.”

To Reyes, inspiration comes from anywhere. “It’s cliche, I know”, he admits, “but I get the most inspiration from the everyday mundane. I take pictures when I’m outside.” Reyes is steadfastly focused on the growth of his brand, bent on gaining traction and becoming more visible. “I feel like I have so much to offer and I’ve barely scratched the surface.”

With every creation, Gabbie Sarenas pens a love letter to the Philippines. She began her tutelage under the fashion designer Hindy Weber Tantoco after graduating from SoFa Design Institute. She then moved to Paris to learn draping at L’École de la Chambre Syndicale
de la Couture Parisienne. Upon returning home, she studied at FAB Creatives under the mentorship of Jojie Lloren and Pidge Reyes. She recalls, “After Paris, I started thinking about my life and my career. [Before launching my brand] I did my research for a year, starting with the question “What is the essence of Filipino design?”

Her romantic and ethereal pieces for the contemporary Filipino woman are often made of light piña fabrics stamped by her signature embroidery. Recurring motifs in her work feature depictions of native flora and other whimsical interpretations of cultural nostalgia.

Priding herself on authenticity, she says that her ideas are powered by
emotions, memory and personal lessons collected and harnessed over the years. Sarenas believes in the power of education and endlessly draws inspiration from experiences and topics that pique her interest. “I still want to study further, learn more techniques and widen my knowledge. I look at all goals one step at a time.”

Her work has been featured at the ArteFino Fair, on the Bench Fashion Week Summer 2024 runway, and even as uniforms for Max’s Restaurant. Despite her success, Sarenas remains genuinely humble, “Our brand is blessed to have many accomplishments and validations. I am not sure if we have ‘made it’ since our goals get bigger and bigger. But all the small steps will get us there.”

Carl Jan Cruz graduated from the London College of Fashion. He interned at Celine when the House was under the direction of Phoebe Philo. At 23, he returned home to the Philippines and launched his own label. Now, his collections have been shown at Paris Fashion Week and are stocked at fashion retailers all over the world, from New York to Tokyo. His success proves just how capable Filipinos are to take on the world stage.

His cult brand is a favourite of local fashion aficionados. A Carl Jan Cruz denim piece is instantly recognisable with its unique washes of colour and exposed stitching. His label’s penchant for fabric manipulation is done through different specific techniques, which are then transformed into pieces devotedly embedded into the Carl Jan Cruz DNA. The ardent proof of handiwork is apparent, reflecting a zealous adherence to foundation and quality.

He says, “The act of creating something tangible has always been in my head.” Staple aspects include his piqué collection, born from an experiment to create a fabric that reflects the Filipino psyche. Reflecting on his distinctive oeuvre, he remarks, “It just so happens that my identity is pretty layered, so the aesthetic is a compound of our collective identity as Filipinos. It’s a result of all the experience and the technicalities that I know. That’s what makes it different.”

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