Skincare 101: Exfoliate for clearer and healthier skin with these dermatologist-approved tips

There are two key types of exfoliation: physical, which involves tactile things—scrubs, brushes or washcloths—that manually remove dead skin cells; and chemical, which are products with different acids in various concentrations that are used to gently “unglue” dead skin cells from your epidermis, allowing them to be cleansed off the skin more easily. 

With physical exfoliants, they are products with “scrubbies” you can feel between your fingers, and some are finer than others. Be mindful to pick a texture that suits your level of skin sensitivity, and always use a gentle hand when applying it. 

With chemical exfoliants, an acid commonly used is alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), which include glycolic and lactic acids, and Lam says she likes these because they contain antioxidants, which can help stimulate collagen production and maintain skin elasticity on top of keeping skin clear.

Meanwhile, beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), such as salicylic acid, are commonly used to target skin prone to blemishes and acne. Which you use depends on how sensitive your skin tends to be, and will inevitably come with a period of trial and error.

“People need to know there are many types to choose from, and a suitable option is one that doesn’t cause their skin to feel overly irritated,” says Lam. ”If you [experience] excessive redness, feel itchy or even develop a rash, that’s a sign to stop using that kind of exfoliation.”

Lam says it depends on different factors, one of them being your skin type, which would also dictate frequency. “Sensitive skin may not need to be exfoliated [as frequently], while those with oily skin can benefit from exfoliating more often”, she says.

The other factor is the “aggressiveness” of the exfoliation method. 

“Many people think chemical exfoliation methods are harsher, but from a dermatology perspective, it’s less harsh than physical methods”, Lam says. “Physical scrubs can cause tears to the skin, leading to breakouts and, in some cases, more sensitivity. On the other hand, mild chemical exfoliants have a more reliable application method because it doesn’t depend on how much force you use—you can spread it evenly across the skin, so I think the results are more consistent. 

“For regular use at home, acids that range from 3 to 15 per cent work well a few times a week. For a clinical procedure such as a chemical peel, we’ll use acids up to 50 or 70 per cent, and that should only be done once a month.”

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Lam says to choose an exfoliator to best suit your skin type. While the following is not a definitive guide, because skin type exists on a spectrum, here are a few of her tips to get you started:

With dry skin, which tends to be more delicate thanks to a compromised skin barrier, using a mild chemical exfoliator regularly can help keep skin clear, which allows for products you want to be treating your skin, like your moisturiser, to be absorbed more effectively.

With normal skin it’s easier, because your skin is often less fussy. So whatever feels best for your skin, whether that’s physical or chemical, is fine to use. Just remember to be gentle.

With oily or combination skin that is more prone to clogging, regular exfoliating using a physical or chemical exfoliant is a good idea, but you may need to experiment with the levels of concentration, and we suggest starting with lower concentration and build up as necessary.

With sensitive skin, it depends on your level of sensitivity, but regular exfoliation is not necessary, and it’s best to avoid aggressive exfoliators and peels altogether. However, you should still cleanse your skin with a mild cleanser, or one that your skin likes, on a daily basis, but gently wiping away the cleanser with a damp micro-fibre washcloth until your skin is clean should be enough exfoliating for your more delicate skin type.

Lam says that if you’re unsure where to start, begin with a low-concentration product on less sensitive areas. If no issues arise within a week, it’s likely okay to use on the rest of your face.

She also recommends being mindful when using tools—for example, dry brushes should be cleaned weekly and stored in an area with good airflow to avoid the build-up of bacteria, which can grow on these brushes due to the humidity in bathrooms and cause skin infections when used.

Lam also says that while under-exfoliation may cause the skin to become more oily, resulting in breakouts or closed comedones (whiteheads), “over-exfoliation is more of a problem—you can develop redness or irritation, and too much exfoliation can also cause skin to be more sensitive to the sun.”

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