He also shares how the luxury house continues to produce timeless fragrances in 2022 with the expansion of the L’Art & La Matiere collection

Many of the most well-known perfume companies around the world choose to collaborate with the best experts or people with an extremely keen sense of smell. Known as “noses”, their services are highly sought after by some of the fragrance industry’s biggest manufacturers. For the house of Guerlain, its go-to person is Thierry Wasser—the French luxury beauty brand’s in-house master perfumer. He’s held the position since 2008 and is the fifth perfumer in the house’s history after having succeeded the previous in-house perfumer, Jean-Paul Guerlain.

As one of the oldest fragrance and beauty houses in the world, Guerlain needs no introduction. Founded in Paris in 1828, the luxury brand has released dozens of scents loved by many all over the world—with some becoming icons. In the past decade, Wasser was heavily involved in the creative process for some of the house’s best-selling fragrances including the legendary cult favourite Shalimar, Mon Guerlain, Muguet Millesime and several new variations within the Aqua Allegoria and Haute Parfumerie collections.

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But the quintessence of Guerlain haute parfumerie is its L’Art & La Matière collection, which was first created in 2005. Today, the collection celebrates its first anniversary of its relaunch with three new fragrances, Oud Nude, Cherry Oud and Oud Khol, that showcase oud wood as its star ingredient.

The fragrances in this collection are of a style, one that distinctly expresses a feeling about a specific raw material. This collection reflects the unique marriage of intention and a singular note. That collision of emotion and solo raw material is very inspiring to me,” shares Wasser in an exclusive e-mail interview with Tatler Singapore.

The raw materials in this collection are exactly like the ingredients in all of our creations in that they are of the finest quality. That said, this collection stands apart by featuring certain rare ingredients not often highlighted by Guerlain such as leather, neroli and gardenia.

The common element which unites all 21 fragrances in the L’Art & La Matière collection is undoubtedly the exceptional quality of the raw materials and the way Guerlain pays tribute to them in the different scents—making it such an audacious and vibrant collection.

Each fragrance in this collection is based on a single star ingredient, clearly differentiating one fragrance from another as well as from other perfumes offered by Guerlain.

Noting that Singapore is home to “fragrance connoisseurs, experts and lovers”, Wasser believes the L’Art & La Matière collection is made up of Asia-friendly fragrances.

“Those new scents represent three fun characters around oud. Oud Nude is amber and rich; Cherry Oud is yummy and sparkling to a certain extent and Oud Khol is an oud darker than black,” Wasser adds.

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With over 1,110 fragrances to its name (the oldest one dates back to 1853), it’s clear that Guerlain stands apart from its competitors by offering perfumes that remain timeless. Historically, there has always been a close link between perfumery and France. Home to precious ingredients and some of the world’s best noses, having these in one country will inadvertently have a direct impact on the quality of perfume produced there. And Guerlain has always been made in France.

“I hope and believe that even our most recent 2022 launches will live on to be appreciated for decades because Guerlain elevates the art of perfumery by using only the finest raw materials and unlimited creative freedom,” says Wasser. “And I would argue that it stands as the ultimate symbol of French perfumery throughout the world.”

Tatler Asia
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