Cover The story of multi-generational heritage at three famous cosmetic brands
The story of multi-generational heritage at three famous cosmetic brands
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A person, a family, a brand seeking to be considered “prestigious” must first have a name before it can command a price.
A person, a family, a brand that seeks to be considered “prestigious” must first have a name before it can command a price. That is to say, it must possess a certain history, dedication and legacy of achievements. Join us as we explore the most renowned cosmetic dynasties in the beauty world and discover the legendary families behind them.
Guerlain, Estée Lauder and Shiseido—behind these heritage brands of more than a century stand stories passed down through generations. Their extraordinary contributions have cemented their status as noble families within the beauty world, admired for their longevity and enduring influence. Let us take a look back at the origins of these cosmetic empires—when beauty was still a secondary pursuit of the elite—and the journey that shaped them into the “prestigious” names they are today.
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Guerlain – The Perfume House of His Majesty
Above Guerlain is a prestigious cosmetic brand from France.
Guerlain is a prestigious cosmetic brand from France.
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At the pinnacle of prestigious beauty families stands none other than the Guerlain dynasty. Few brands have withstood the passage of nearly two centuries—196 years to be precise—while maintaining their standing and expanding their reach to more than 100 countries, as Guerlain continues to do. The house’s prestige is steeped in history, woven through its close ties with Europe’s most illustrious royal families in the 19th and 20th centuries. Established in 1828 at 42 Rue de Rivoli—then the heart of Paris—the first Guerlain boutique opened under the direction of its founder, François Pascal Guerlain.
François was also the creator of the now-iconic Eau de Cologne Impériale, crafted as a wedding anniversary gift for the beloved Empress Eugénie, wife of Napoleon III. The exquisite fragrance—its bright orange blossom notes encased in a glass bottle adorned with 69 gold-plated bees, a nod to the imperial insignia—charmed both the Emperor and his Empress. The resounding success of this royal gift secured Guerlain’s position as the exclusive perfumer to the French court, paving the way for deeper inroads into European aristocracy. Soon, the brand became sought after by some of the era’s most illustrious figures, such as Queen Victoria of the United Kingdom, Queen Isabella II of Spain and Empress Elisabeth of Austria, the latter famously enamoured with Crème à la Fraise pour le Teint—a cooling strawberry-infused skin cream personally created by François Pascal Guerlain. It was, in fact, the world’s first branded skincare cream.
Above The legacy of Guerlain cosmetics has endured for nearly two centuries.
The legacy of Guerlain cosmetics has endured for nearly two centuries.
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Building upon this extraordinary heritage, successive generations of the Guerlain family elevated the brand to the status of a true “empire”. The second and third generations, both possessing an innate talent for perfumery, expanded Guerlain’s olfactory portfolio with some of the world’s most legendary scents. Among them, L’Heure Bleue (1912) and Shalimar (1925), both masterpieces of the great ‘Nose’ Jacques Guerlain, secured the house’s place among the most revered names in fragrance.
In 1994, Guerlain transitioned from a family-run enterprise to a global luxury powerhouse under the stewardship of the LVMH group. Today, it flourishes as a fully realised beauty brand, offering skincare, makeup and fragrance. Yet, so long as the name Guerlain remains emblazoned on its creations, its legacy endures—forever enshrined as one of the most esteemed families in the beauty world.
Estée Lauder – Teaching the World How to Market Beauty
Above Estée Lauder is a cosmetics brand with a distinct vision.
Estée Lauder is a cosmetics brand with a distinct vision.
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From the earliest days of the beauty industry—when cosmetics remained a secondary indulgence for society’s elite—Estée Lauder held a radically different perspective. She championed the belief that beauty was not a privilege but an attitude, famously asserting: ‘There are no ugly women, only women who do not know how to take care of their appearance and make themselves attractive.’
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Above A portrait of Estée Lauder at her cosmetics mixing table.
A portrait of Estée Lauder at her cosmetics mixing table.
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Though Estée Lauder was the driving force behind the empire that bears her name, its transformation from a brand into a global powerhouse was a family affair, passed from one generation to the next. In 1946, Estée and her husband, Joseph Lauder, founded Estée Lauder Cosmetics. The couple had two sons, Leonard and Ronald, and it was Leonard who would take his parents’ legacy to unprecedented heights.
Leonard A. Lauder began working alongside his parents as a teenager before officially joining the company in 1958. His strategic vision propelled the brand’s growth, with pioneering marketing initiatives and innovative sales programmes. More significantly, Leonard spearheaded the company’s international expansion, established its first research and development laboratory, and introduced professional management at every level. Under his leadership, Estée Lauder Cosmetics diversified into a portfolio of world-renowned brands and strategically expanded through mergers and acquisitions.
When the company went public in 1995, Leonard assumed the role of Chairman, a position he held until June 2009. Nearly 80 years after its inception, Estée Lauder remains one of the most influential names in the beauty industry, now guided by second- and third-generation members of the Lauder family. What began as a small family operation has evolved into a global empire—an enduring testament to the brand’s vision and pioneering spirit.
Shiseido – Bringing Japanese Beauty to the World
The story of Shiseido did not begin with a vision of beauty. Instead, its origins lie in pharmaceuticals. Established in 1872 as Japan’s first Western-style pharmacy, Shiseido was founded by Arinobu Fukuhara, a trained pharmacist with a distinguished military career. Before embarking on his business journey, Arinobu served as Chief Pharmacist of the Imperial Japanese Navy, a role that underscored his expertise in Western medicine.
The company’s transformation came 25 years later when Shiseido pivoted towards cosmetics, launching the legendary Eudermine lotion. At a time when most beauty products were rudimentary concoctions stored in dark medicinal bottles, Eudermine broke the mould with its refined formulation and elegant presentation.
In 1916, Arinobu’s son, Shinzo Fukuhara, took the helm and ushered in a new era for Shiseido. He established a dedicated cosmetics division, separate from the pharmacy, and even opened a standalone retail boutique next door to the original shop. This space was meticulously designed to include a cosmetics production room, an advertising studio and a testing laboratory—the foundations of what would later become the renowned Shiseido Research Centre.
Above Shiseido Cosmetics Store
Above Shiseido Cosmetics Store
Shiseido Cosmetics Store
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As Shiseido grew into an international beauty giant, it successfully navigated the challenges that often accompany generational transitions. Each successive Fukuhara heir became involved in the business at an early stage, ensuring continuity in leadership and vision. Arinobu’s grandson, Yoshiharu Fukuhara, joined the company soon after earning a degree in economics from Keio University in Tokyo in 1953. He went on to serve as President and CEO of Shiseido in 1987, Chairman of the Board in 1997, and Honorary Chairman in 2001.
Today, Shiseido stands as a global beauty powerhouse, present in more than 80 countries and regions. Its remarkable legacy and contributions have cemented its status as one of the world’s most prestigious family-run beauty empires—an enduring symbol of Japanese innovation and artistry.
This article has been adapted from the original feature published in the October 2024 issue of Tatler Vietnam – Family & Legacy.
