The biggest skincare mistakes many of us are making and how to take care of our skin properly

From picking at stubborn pimples to using way too many products, we all fall prey to bad skincare habits now and then. Dr Lisa Chan explains some of the most common mistakes she sees, and how to avoid them

Consumers the world over has discovered a love, or obsession, with skincare and skincare products. And along with make-up gurus online giving way to skincare influences—or “skinfluencers”—came a tsunami of information. From active ingredients and best chemical combinations to skin types and concerns, we were suddenly inundated with skincare knowledge.

However, snuck in with this wealth of information was a lot of misinformation that spread like wildfire across social media platforms. At best, it’s silly and click-baity; but at worst, it’s genuinely harmful practises disguised as “facts” or “expert advice”.

To combat this onslaught, we turn to Dr Lisa Chan, a general practitioner with a keen interest in medical beauty who is based in Hong Kong, for a dose of misinformation detox and clarification on commonly held skincare misconceptions or misunderstandings. Here are some of the skincare mistakes she sees the most often at her clinic, and the right skincare habits to form for happier and healthier skin.

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What is the most common misconception people have about skincare?

That the more products you use, the better. Using too many products can lead to irritation, clogged pores, and other issues.
Trying out multiple new skincare products at once. If your skin breaks out or gets irritated, you won’t be able to tell which product caused it. Add only one new product to your skincare arsenal at a time, and use it for a month before adding anything else.
That expensive skincare products can substitute medical aesthetic procedures. No matter how expensive your skincare product is, it’s still designed for topical use and cannot fully substitute lasers, energy-based devices or cosmetic injectables such as fillers and botulinum toxin.

What are some of the biggest mistakes you see people make when it comes to taking care of their skin?

Forgetting to apply sunscreen to the back of the ears, eyelids, lips and neck.
Applying skincare in the wrong order: it’s best to apply skincare products from the thinnest to thickest consistency, which allows each product to fully absorb before applying the next.
Many people believe that toners are essential for every skin type. However, toners are astringents primarily used to balance the skin’s pH level and to even out skin tone. They are also helpful for those with oily skin as they can help prevent excess sebum formation. However, astringents can dry out the skin, so toners are not necessary for all skin types, especially those with dry skin.
Dipping fingers into jars [of products isn’t a good idea], it’s best to use a spatula, scoop or fresh cotton swab because your hands can transfer bacteria and viruses—such as human papillomavirus—to your creams.
Not cleaning your mobile phone regularly [is a huge mistake]. Phones can harbour bacteria, dirt, make-up residue and oil that can transfer to the skin, which leads to breakouts, irritation, and other skin problems. Phones should be cleaned regularly with a disinfectant wipe or alcohol-based cleaner.

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Many people in Hong Kong think that, due to the humidity and perhaps because they have oily skin, that they don’t need to moisturise. Is that true?
False. Skipping moisturiser can make oily skin worse by causing the skin to produce even more oil to compensate for the lack of moisture, resulting in clogged pores and breakouts. This is an especially prevalent misconception in men, and I always advise those with oily skin to use a lightweight, water-based, non-comedogenic moisturiser for effective hydration.

Similarly, what would you say to someone who believes they don’t need to cleanse their skin because they have a dry skin type?
Cleansing is important regardless of skin type as it removes dirt, make-up, sweat, pollutants and dead skin cells that can accumulate on the skin’s surface. Your skin should feel soft and smooth after cleansing, and never dry or tight. If you have dry skin, consider a gentle cleanser with added ingredients like ceramides, hyaluronic acid or glycerin.

True or False: we only need to apply sunscreen on sunny days or when we are going to be in the sun, and only to the protruding points on the face like our forehead, nose and cheekbones.
False. UV rays can penetrate through clouds and windows, so wear sunscreen even if it’s overcast or you‘re staying indoors. Electronic screens also emit blue light, which with prolonged exposure can lead to oxidative stress in the skin, damage [to your natural] collagen and elastin fibres and cause premature ageing. It’s always a good idea to wear sunscreen daily.

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Can make-up with SPF be used as the only means of sun protection?
No. Sunscreen ratings are achieved based on a standard [read: heavy] application of 2mg [of sunscreen for every] centimetre square of skin, which means you would need to use an excessive amount of foundation to achieve adequate protection. I always advise patients to use physical barriers like hats, umbrellas or long-sleeved clothing in addition to reapplying sunscreen every two to three hours, and to stay out of the sun from 10am to 4pm.

Is there a very basic routine/set of products every person should use?
For me, there are three non-negotiable steps: cleansing, moisturising and applying sunscreen—especially sunscreen, as it’s estimated that more than 80 per cent of ageing skin is caused by exposure to UV light.

I also recommend those shopping for new products to stick with it for at least a month, because our skin cells take [an average of] 28 days to turn over, and it usually takes a month before the results of a new product becomes apparent. Obviously, if there is irritation, stop right away.

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What is the most incorrect or dangerous skincare “hack” you’ve come across online, and why is it so bad?
I’ve seen my fair share of ice burns, steam burns and chemical burns from the use of “natural” at-home procedures involving extreme temperatures or pH levels like ice baths, face steaming and spot treatments with lemon juice and baking soda. I would also advise against popping your own pimples; most people don’t quite know when to stop and can worsen the situation which can result in deep-seated infections and scarring.

Most at-home “hacks” don’t do much besides irritating your skin. If you must pop that pimple, go see a doctor—sterile instruments used under magnification, topical antibiotics and intense pulsed light treatment will help get rid of it safely.

What do you think are the biggest factors contributing to the mistakes people make, or misconceptions people have about skincare?
Social media and marketing language are very loosely regulated in Hong Kong, and there is no legislation in place to protect consumers besides the Trade Descriptions Ordinance. Influencers can post pictures promoting products without declaring whether they were paid to do so, and prominent online skincare trends are often not backed by evidence.

Products may also have misleading names that make consumers believe they can achieve improbable results. I may be a bit of a skeptic, but I find that the more aggressively something is advertised, the less likely it actually works.

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Do you find people have misconceptions about going to a clinic for skincare treatments? What are the most common ones you’ve come across?

That going to a clinic for skincare is only necessary when at-home treatments have failed. Actually, it’s better to start early prophylactic treatments as extremely dry skin, deep wrinkles or excessive loss of volume and sagging will be difficult to treat [later on] with minimally invasive methods.
That only women go to skincare clinics, when in fact more men are interested in maintaining their skin nowadays.
That aesthetic treatments are painful and have a long downtime. Numbing creams can be used, and most minimally invasive treatments don’t have a long downtime. Along this vein, that aesthetic treatments are expensive. There are many options available at a range of price points, and not all treatments are unaffordable.
That at-home devices can replace clinical machines. Many devices for home use are unregulated and not backed by the necessary research or international approvals.

Acne is a common concern. What are mistakes you see often among people dealing with acne?
Skipping medications, trying a variety of different “quick fix” treatments and popping your own pimples can all worsen acne.

What is the correct way to treat acne?
Acne is a chronic condition that requires time and patience, as there are several different causes, [and] treatments will be most effective when they are used consistently and as directed, usually over a matter of months, and maintenance treatment is often needed to control breakouts. Some medications can also result in sun sensitivity, so always use a non-comedogenic sunscreen during treatment.

Another concern is signs of ageing. What are some mistakes people make trying to minimise this, and what’s a better approach?

Sunscreen is essential, but it’s not everything. Physical barriers such as hats, sunglasses, umbrellas, long-sleeved clothing and staying in the shade is just as important.
Relying on anti-ageing products while disregarding lifestyle—good relationships, a healthy diet, proper sleep habits, regular exercise and reducing stress will work wonders.
Jumping on trends. Don’t be too quick to fall for the latest marketing hype. Check the research, read the ingredients and know what your skin needs before adding something new.
Misusing retinol, [which] speeds up the turnover of skin cells for younger-looking skin, but it’s important to be using it at the right concentrations. Too little will have no effect, while too much will result in dry and damaged skin. Start at a low concentration and work up gradually. Also, it’s important to use it only at night and follow up with a sunscreen in the morning, as retinol can make the skin more sensitive to ultraviolet rays.
Over-exfoliating, because using harsh exfoliants or strong peels can damage the skin. [It’s better to use] gentle products a maximum of twice a week, and let your skin rest and recover if there are signs of irritation.

This is part of a monthly column in collaboration with Dr Lisa Chan, a Hong Kong-based general practitioner who has an avid interest in medical beauty. Dr Chan, MBChB (CUHK), MScPD (Cardiff), PgDipPD (Cardiff), PGDipClinDerm (Lond), DipMed (CUHK), DCH (Sydney), also holds a master's degree in practical dermatology with distinction at Cardiff University.

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Skincare Beauty Self-care Skincare mistakes Dr Lisa Chan

Heidi Yeung

Digital Editor, Hong Kong, Tatler Hong Kong

Heidi Yeung was the Digital Editor at Tatler Hong Kong. Previously, she was a digital production editor at South China Morning Post, Hong Kong's leading English-language newspaper, and relied on cat memes to get through heavy news days.