De Beers blue diamond
Cover De Beers blue diamond

The precious stones industry is now relying on blockchain to trace a gem's journey from mining to purchase

As jewellery is gifted by a beloved, or is a family heirloom passed down, these gems glisten with memories and history. However, when the provenance of a piece of jewellery is less than ironclad—as is often the case—its legacy and value can be dampened. Even when gemstones are certified, buyers remain blind to the mining and processing stages.

Investments in precious stones and jewellery have remained a significant and stable asset, but the demand for information is increasing. As with food and fashion, people have become more curious about the origin of jewellery, especially as the industry has been exposed and slandered with negative headlines. Projected to reach US$266.53 billion by 2027, the global jewellery market is increasingly being pressured by consumers who value environmental and social impact, and want full transparency and accountability.

Sustainability-influenced purchases are projected to make up 20 to 30 per cent of fine-jewellery sales by 2025, triple what it was in 2019. Yet, primitive methods have made verifying authenticity and tracing the history of gems and jewellery a challenge. Blockchain has provided an innovative way to capture the flow of reliable information and support the identification of a gemstone’s journey through the value chain.

‘Digi-Twin’ Jewellery

Tatler Asia
L'Dezen Limitless earrings
Above Limitless earrings by L'Dezen

L’Dezen by Payal Shah, is one of the first fine-jewellery brand to launch ‘phygital’ wearables in collaboration with NFT marketplace Digital Twin. Its first auction listed a physical pair of 18k gold Very Peri enamel diamond earrings. Realised at a sale for 3.27 ETH (then worth US$8,205), the NFT holder is now owner of a set of insured diamonds, which can also be digitally imposed onto their profile picture (PFP) of choice. The NFT is bonded with a smart contract on the blockchain during its sale as a way to verify authenticity, as opposed to just a traditional certificate.

 

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Web3-based utility also appeals to a broader demographic outside traditional jewellery buyers. CyberAnubis is a new Hong Kong-based NFT project that is about to launch in partnership with jewellery company Nyrelle and Greenland Ruby. Each ruby has its own certificate of authenticity and is provided with a stamp from the Greenlandic government. The stones are then set into Nyrelle jewellery, supplemented by information on product origin and ethical manufacturing processes. Tiny markers are embedded within the jewellery piece for holders to scan with their mobile devices to access the certificate of authenticity.

The NFT PFP project makes the gemstone industry accessible, allowing consumers as a collective to buy rough gemstones directly from the mines. “We believe that the future of the fashion and luxury industry are dependent on traceability and community,” says Jai Soni, co-founder of CyberAnubis.

Tatler Asia
Greenland rubies
Above Greenland rubies

From Mine to Market

To this day, many transactions between traders are still recorded by hand and exchanged through pieces of paper, with no guaranteed authentication. Blockchain has been introduced to the industry to provide full traceability, from the hands of traders to retailers and customers. The database ledger technology encodes information in its decentralised network which can enable merchants to provide evidence and prompt responsible business practices.

The individual gem is uniquely documented and identifiable at each step of the supply chain—documenting origin, source, ownership and extraction processes. Artificial or imitation gemstones can slip through to the supply chain and sold without disclosure. But with blockchain, the rough stone is marked with supporting documentation of the miner, location, date, weight and other identifying characteristics. When a lapidarist purchases the rough stone for cutting, new data on the manufacturing of the newly formed jewellery is now added to the blockchain—further finalised at sale with documentation to visualise the entire history of the gemstone for full transparency.

For decades, the mining industry has always been clouded in secrecy, posing a challenge for those who want to trace a stone's provenance and ensure its sustainable sourcing. But now, information comes as an irrefutable cryptographic record which enforces responsible practices—which, one hopes, could act as a catalyst for positive change against unethical labour and environmental damages in the industry.

 

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