Restaurateur Long Tran: redefining the concept of ‘traditional restaurants’

You bring a sense of luxury and experimentation to Gia Restaurant, while Little Bear embodies a more free-spirited approach. In your current role, do you see yourself more as a businessman, a manager, or a creator? How do you balance these different identities?

Regardless of my role, I always remind myself that I am, first and foremost, a maître d’. That is why you will often find me working on the floor, personally serving guests at my restaurants in Singapore. It keeps me grounded, allows me to stay close to the work, and continuously nurtures my passion, creativity, and love for the craft. I never want my restaurants to exist purely as business ventures. The F&B industry is competitive and full of challenges, and a restaurant driven solely by commercial interests will rarely succeed in the long run.

How has managing multiple restaurants influenced your creative and leadership style?

Each restaurant opens at its own pace and follows its own vision. I never rush into launching a new concept before ensuring that the existing ones are well established and stable. In truth, I do not feel overwhelmed by managing multiple restaurants—this has been my life for many years. I find fulfilment in doing what I love and in making a meaningful contribution to the culinary industry. I am also fortunate to have the support of colleagues, employees, and like-minded collaborators who share the same vision and dedication.

It is often said that experiences shape who we are. Looking back, what have been the defining moments in your personal and professional journey?

My time at Restaurant André and Restaurant Meta in Singapore was undoubtedly the most formative. It was a period of intense challenges but also immense learning. Those experiences opened doors to new opportunities and allowed me to connect with some of the most influential figures in the global culinary scene—relationships that I still maintain to this day.

Success often requires a bold vision. Can you share a decision that set you apart from the norm, or from your former self? If you could go back, would you change anything about your entry into this industry?

When I returned to Vietnam in 2018, I launched a small restaurant in Hanoi offering a tasting menu-only experience. Although prix fixe menus have long been a staple in Europe, they were still relatively unfamiliar to Vietnamese diners at the time. In Hanoi, I was among the first to introduce this concept. Looking back, I am delighted to see how tasting menus have since gained widespread popularity and have been embraced by the local dining scene.

Gia Restaurant recently hosted the Golden Forest, Silver Sea appreciation event to celebrate Vietnamese farmers and agricultural suppliers. What inspired this initiative, and what stood out as the most memorable moment?

In the early days of building Gia, sourcing ingredients was one of our greatest challenges. We made a firm decision to work with local, seasonal produce rather than relying on imports, but this came with difficulties—supply was often inconsistent, and ingredients were not always available in the best condition. After nearly four years of collaboration, we have built strong relationships with the farmers, suppliers, and producers who help shape our menu.

Hosting Golden Forest, Silver Sea was our way of honouring their contributions. We invited them to dine with us and experience a meal crafted from their own produce. Before the event, I was slightly anxious, wondering if the dishes would suit everyone’s tastes or habits. However, I was touched to see how happy and appreciative they were. Seeing their efforts presented in the best possible light gave them a deeper understanding of our work and strengthened the connection between the restaurant and its suppliers.

Also read: ACB Leadership Summit: Chairman Tran Hung Huy and the endeavour to bring Harvard to Vietnamese leaders

Some argue that while Michelin has undoubtedly played a positive role in elevating Vietnamese cuisine on the global stage, its selection criteria for the 2023 and 2024 awards remain subjective and do not fully align with the Vietnamese culinary landscape. What is your perspective on this?

For those of us who have been deeply immersed in the profession for many years, Michelin remains a highly respected benchmark, upheld by rigorous and impartial evaluation standards. No one truly knows the exact methodology behind Michelin’s assessments, which adds to the fairness and mystique of the Michelin Guide. Controversy, anticipation, and disappointment are inevitable—not just in Vietnam or Asia, but globally. After all, cuisine is inherently subjective; each individual brings their own perspective and preferences. The same applies to Michelin. Personally, I view the Michelin Guide as a valuable reference, but the most important factor will always be direct, personal experience.

Vietnam’s high-end F&B industry is dynamic and flourishing, yet still in its early stages. It also seems to be dominated by a new generation of young chefs. In your opinion, what are the key factors that determine the success of a fine dining restaurant in Vietnam?

Many young chefs today aspire to establish themselves independently and run their own kitchens. However, I find that many tend to be somewhat hasty and impatient—particularly when it comes to gaining experience. There is no absolute right or wrong in their approach, but I do hope that new concepts are built on clear, authentic, and independent motivations. A successful restaurant should not only create value for itself but also contribute meaningfully to the wider culinary community.

Tatler Asia’s Most Influential celebrates the individuals shaping the world today. This prestigious list brings together the region’s most visionary minds, industry leaders, and creative pioneers who are making a lasting impact in Asia and beyond. See the full list here.

Tatler Vietnam – Nhà Tập Tinh Hoa will officially honour those named in Asia’s Most Influential Vietnam 2024 at Tatler Vietnam Launch – Enter a New Kingdom on 4 December 2024.

Credits

Managing Director: Hami Tran

Editor-in-Chief: Nikita Chu

Art Director: Andy Tran

Managing Editor: Sade Ho

Photography: NVCC

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