Can Philippine coffee scale up without leaving farmers behind?

Today, the Filipino coffee palate is becoming more sophisticated. The modern coffee drinker no longer only seeks a caffeine boost; they desire an experience. We observe a rise in home brewers—a hobby that surged during the pandemic—who invest heavily in their own equipment to craft the perfect pour-over. “It’s a therapy,” Visitacion shares, noting that these enthusiasts look for “a short moment of peace and silence.”

“I used to say that speciality coffee is hard to find,” Chanco recalls. “You have to go out of your way to access good coffee, but now in 2026, I tell people that good coffee is the one that’s nearest to you and purely because the standard across the board has increased.”

Our massive consumption has not gone unnoticed by global players. Recognising our insatiable appetite for the brew, numerous international coffee chains are now choosing the Philippines as their primary launchpad for overseas expansion. Malaysia’s ZUS Coffee opened its first international outpost on our shores, while Starbucks opened its third market outside North America in the Philippines. 

As Juan observes, accessible kiosks like ZUS Coffee, Kopi Kenangan, Tomoro and Pick Up Coffee serve as a vital enrollment phase for young Filipinos trying coffee for the first time, with some eventually progressing to speciality brews. Visitacion highlights that this demographic shift is significant. “Coffee consumption is reaching the younger generation,” he states. “You would be amazed that 40 per cent of the coffee consumed now is by people under 25.” Visitacion also foresees the emergence of  “functional coffee”  where the daily brew is infused with ingredients like protein or collagen for extra wellness benefits. 

The preparation process has become increasingly scientific, with enthusiasts adopting innovations like the Paragon Brewer, which brews hot coffee over a frozen ball to cool the liquid instantly and prevent delicate aromatics from vaporising. “The flavour has moved beyond simply drinking coffee as a leisure or lifestyle activity. It now appeals to culinary palates,” says Robert Francisco, technical director of the Philippine Coffee Board, a seasoned coffee roaster, and managing director of the UCC Coffee Academy in the country. For him, the true art lies in restraint. “I let the coffee speak,” he says of his roasting philosophy. “If you keep on tampering with your roasting, you won’t know what caused the final result.”

Francisco also warns against unnecessarily complicating the process. He notices a trend where people over-analyse and over-experiment, warning that “you’re complicating the joy of coffee” by adding too many elements and tweaks without understanding the baseline product. The most exciting developments, however, are happening around the world, where Philippine coffee is finally gaining the recognition it deserves. The Liberica bean, known locally as barako, was once undervalued and overshadowed by Arabica. Now, it is being highlighted at the prestigious World Barista Championship (WBC). “Liberica is the future,” Visitacion states. “Liberica, as a specie, can adapt to extremely hot environments, and it produces twice as much as an Arabica tree”.

In a historic moment at the 2025 WBC in Milan, Philippine representative Michael Harris Conlin presented an espresso made from a blend of Philippine Liberica and Colombian Eugenoides to secure 13th place—the highest ever finish for a Filipino barista. Demonstrating the bean’s regional prowess, Malaysian competitor Jason Loo also used Liberica to achieve a remarkable 4th-place finish. This international momentum is reflected in the growth of homegrown coffee brands abroad. Stylish, tech-savvy Filipino chains like Harlan & Holden have successfully expanded into international markets, bringing their sleek, minimalist cafe experiences to countries like Indonesia and South Korea. 

At home, local cafes are passionately promoting homegrown beans with renewed vigour. When Yardstick was founded in 2013, it used 100 per cent imported coffee because local yields did not meet their strict quality standards at the time. Today, about 30 to 40 per cent of their stock is sourced locally. Chanco explains that this change is very deliberate. “When we buy local coffee, we’re investing in the industry’s future,” he says. 

The push for premium products has even led to the cultivation of Geisha—considered one of the world’s most elegant and expensive coffee varieties—grown in the highlands of Mount Apo in Mindanao. 

Despite these successes, the industry faces a daunting challenge: a stark disconnect between our high consumption and low production. “The production is only 30 million kilos of coffee per year. The consumption is almost 200 million kilos of coffee per year,” Visitacion reveals. We rely heavily on imports just to meet local demand. Why are we struggling to grow enough coffee? 

The answers are rooted in structural issues. Coffee farming requires patience and resources; it takes years for a tree to produce fruit, and the harvest happens just once a year. “Coffee is a crop where you have to wait,” Juan notes. Moreover, prime agricultural land in historic coffee-growing regions like Cavite is quickly being converted. “Each golf course takes up at least 200 hectares. Those 200 hectares of coffee land gone,” Juan laments.

Juan also highlights the complexities of the coffee value chain as a barrier for farmers. “Before it becomes cold cash, it takes time. It’s not like papaya that you bring to the market and it turns into money,” she explains, noting that the crop must go from fruit to dried fruit, then to green beans, sorting, and finally roasting before it’s ready for sale. This is why supporting locally grown coffee is not just a trend but an economic and environmental imperative. When consumers actively seek out local beans, they reward the farmers who put extra effort into processing their harvest properly. This willingness to pay a premium brings real benefits: higher income for farmers, stronger rural communities and the environmental benefit of reforesting lands. Juan agrees, mentioning her work with GCash to plant 1.6 million trees. “We need the trees for carbon offsetting,” she explains.

Looking ahead, the future of Philippine coffee seems promising, provided we undertake the collaborative efforts needed. The government has recently acknowledged this urgent requirement and taken decisive measures to strengthen the sector. Agriculture Secretary Francisco Tiu Laurel Jr ordered the establishment of the Coffee Industry Development Office (CIDO), a dedicated agency functioning as the central hub for the crop, consolidating coffee programmes, funding and policies previously scattered across various units.

Major agricultural initiatives are also already in progress to bridge the production gap. Visitacion notes that in the south, a large-scale 10,000-hectare coffee plan is being implemented in Bukidnon, a strategic move aimed at significantly increasing local production and improving farmers’ livelihoods over the next five years. There is also a need for more formal coffee education and professionalisation. Farmers must be trained in modern processing techniques to enhance the quality of their beans, especially the resilient yet highly rewarding Liberica variety. “The goal is not to make Liberica taste like Arabica. The goal is to make Liberica taste like its best self,” Visitacion emphasises. 

The industry’s visionaries share a collective dream of a caffeinated utopia. For Visitacion, a vital step toward this is rebalancing investments. “The boat is now toppled over because we’re spending so much budget on the cafes, but we’re spending less budget on the farms,” he observes. His challenge to the industry is simple: “The Philippines does not need more coffee cafes. It needs to serve better coffee.” 

Meanwhile, Juan envisions establishing a dedicated coffee research institute in the Philippines—a centre of scientific inquiry and innovation. “We want something in the kind that Brazil, Vietnam and Indonesia have,” she shares. For Juan, tackling the core issue is crucial: “Who’s planting the coffee?” she asks, highlighting the importance of focusing on the industry’s foundation. 

Chanco hopes for an integrated, long-term government plan to support coffee infrastructure, envisioning a future in which Philippine coffee gains global recognition. “For Filipino coffee to gain acceptance and enjoy international popularity, it needs to be a collaborative effort among stakeholders,” he suggests. Meanwhile, Visitacion pursues a clear and ambitious goal. “We dream of a world where Philippine coffee is celebrated,” he says. “We’ve identified some local coffees that are already almost to that level. We’re going to get there.”

As we savour our morning brew, whether it’s an intricate Geisha pour-over or a comforting latte, we become part of a grand, ongoing story. The Philippine coffee industry is awakening, and with ongoing support and strong passion, its future looks exceptionally promising.

NOW READ

The ultimate bucket list for discerning coffee lovers: 9 best travel destinations to visit

Best work-friendly cafés in Legazpi Village & Salcedo Village

5 Asian countries with a strong coffee culture