Cover Drag queen Naia Black poses with Butterboy's Rainbow Croissant for Pride Month. (Photo: Butterboy)
Drag queen Naia Black poses with Butterboy's Rainbow Croissant for Pride Month. (Photo: Butterboy)
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Picture drag queens in dazzling outfits performing in a sunlit room as coffee cups clink and pastry bags rustle in the background—at Butterboy Bakehouse, this is just a typical weekend afternoon.
In the heart of Metro Manila, there exists a place where the art of baking intertwines with the vivid spirit of drag culture. Imagine a quaint bakehouse nestled among Quezon City’s eclectic neighbourhoods, its storefront adorned with a colourful rainbow flag and a glass door with a sign that says: “Butterboy”. Every morning begins with the tantalising smell of freshly baked croissants, and every weekend afternoon transforms into a spectacle of glittering performances and infectious laughter.
Welcome to Butterboy Bakehouse, where culinary artistry meets queer joy in a celebration unlike any other. Founded by couple Jayson So and Hilder Demetrio, two individuals whose paths converged through love, a shared passion for food, and a profound admiration for drag, Butterboy quickly evolved into a haven of creativity, inclusivity and delectable pastries.
The Birth of Butterboy
The story of Butterboy is as rich and layered as the croissants they bake. In 2018, So and Demetrio, both navigating their professional lives as a doctor and an architect, respectively, embarked on a journey that would blend their passions into something extraordinary.
Their story begins with a simple date, where So’s culinary skills left Demetrio in awe. Week by week, their dates turned into cooking sessions, with Demetrio overcoming his “fear of the kitchen” and eventually venturing into the realm of baking.
“Weekly na siya nagluluto [Hilder was cooking every week]. Eventually, we bought kalan [a stove], and then a month later, he started baking. Hanggang sa nagtuloy-tuloy na [Until it went on and on],” So shares.
The croissant, a challenging yet rewarding pastry, became Demetrio’s obsession, which he shared with So. They saw an opportunity to make this typically high-end treat more accessible and affordable, using local ingredients and infusing it with flavours that resonated with the Filipino palate.
The Croissant Journey
Baking, particularly croissant-making, is no small feat. The process is intricate, requiring precision, patience and a touch of whimsy. The learning curve was steep for So and Demetrio, who entered the food industry as outsiders. Yet, their passion and determination propelled them forward. They realised that the croissant, with its delicate layers and buttery richness, could be the perfect canvas to introduce something novel and exciting to Manila’s food scene.
“When we got familiar with croissants, we realised there was a way to work with local ingredients and make it more accessible, more affordable for people,” Demetrio says.
Their croissants, inspired by the classic French pastry but imbued with local flavours, quickly gained popularity. Imagine biting into a perfectly flaky croissant filled with shredded beef chunks in cheesy caldereta sauce, topped with sesame seeds and a pickled pepper or a croissant with siling haba and cheese—a play into the classic dynamite lumpia! Of course, they offer the classics, too, from pain au chocolat to kouign-amann.
They introduced the Rainbow Quiche, the Rainbow Croissant, the Strawberry Pain au Chocolat, and the Olive Oil Madeleine as new treats for Pride Month.
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Gaining support
Introducing the concept of a queer-themed bakery in Manila was challenging. The local market, while curious, was also cautious. There were questions about how drag performances would fit into a cafe setting, especially when drag was still gaining mainstream acceptance. But So and Demetrio were undeterred. They believed in their vision and trusted that their community would embrace it.
The first brunches were a learning experience, but with the community’s help, they quickly evolved into a beloved fixture. “The drag queens were all game to do it. Everyone gave input for improvement,” So shares.
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What’s in a drag brunch?
But Butterboy is more than just a bakery. It’s a celebration of queer culture, embodied in their vibrant drag brunches. Inspired by the drag brunches in other countries they had seen online, So and Demetrio envisioned a space where people could enjoy delicious food and exciting performances in equal measure.
“Drag brunch is essentially about queer joy and allowing people to have a good time. It’s about bringing the people of the nightlife into the light of day,” Demetrio says. What can people expect at Butterboy’s brunches? “Expect the unexpected.”
Their drag brunches, held in their commissary space, are nothing short of magical. Picture a sunlit room filled with laughter and music as drag queens in dazzling outfits perform amidst the clinking of coffee cups. It’s a space where LGBTQIA+ talents are given a spotlight and support, where allies can let loose, celebrate and embrace the spirit of inclusivity that Butterboy stands for.
It’s all about queer joy. From the kabadingan of the concept of brunch, to the concept of a croissant, to the kabadingan of a drag queen performing midday.
Looking to the future
With two kiosks, one in SM Mall of Asia and one in SM North Edsa, and a bustling commissary in Basa, Quezon City, So and Demetrio are constantly looking for ways to expand and innovate Butterboy. Their vision is to make queer culture more visible and accessible, not just in their bakery but throughout Manila. Plans for new products, events, and collaborations are always underway.
But one thing will indeed remain in the future: “Bading pa rin [Still gay],” So quips. For the couple, inclusivity isn’t just a buzzword; it’s a core value that guides everything they do.
Their commitment to inclusivity extends beyond their brunches. They also strive to maintain a safe and welcoming space for all, both their customers and employees.
As you step into Butterboy, you’re not just entering a bakery. You’re entering a space where every bite is a celebration of love and acceptance, where every performance is a tribute to the joy of being unapologetically yourself.
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Syrah is Tatler Philippines’ Power & Purpose editor, where she spotlights extraordinary journeys shaping the Philippines and Asia. She covers business, innovation, impact, and culture—chasing the people, ideas and forces shaping how we live and think today.
