Cover Tang Kay Kee’s Debbie Yam on transforming Singapore’s hawker scene (Photo: Tang Kay Kee)
Tang Kay Kee’s Debbie Yam on transforming Singapore’s hawker scene (Photo: Tang Kay Kee)
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Fourth-generation hawker Debbie Yam is blending heritage with innovation in hopes of transforming the local hawker scene
In this series, Tatler speaks to second-generation entrepreneurs about their business journeys. They share more about stepping out on their own, the life lessons learnt through business and how they hope to keep their family legacy alive.
The emergence of young hawkers in Singapore is reshaping the culinary landscape, infusing traditional hawker culture with modern innovation and an entrepreneurial spirit. Among these trailblazers driving the new wave is Tang Kay Kee Fish Head Bee Hoon’s fourth-generation hawker, Debbie Yam.
On top of being fascinated by the journey of food from kitchen to table, Yam sees the industry as a beautiful way to bring people together. “Watching customers share a meal and create memories at our stall reminds me why I love this work. It’s more than just feeding people. Rather, it’s about building community and celebrating our heritage, creating a space where everyone feels welcome,” she explains.
For Yam, the journey into the industry has been both rewarding and challenging. On top of handling customers, operations and cooking, she also had to learn how to work with family.
Read more: Blood, sweat and tears: Young hawkers preserving Singapore’s food heritage and legacy
Above Debbie Yam (Photo: Tang Kay Kee)
Debbie Yam (Photo: Tang Kay Kee)
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A leap of faith
Yam grew up surrounded by food and the bustling hawker scene. As her parents were involved in the store, she spent much of her childhood helping out—to her, hawker centres were akin to playgrounds. “It was noisy and chaotic, much like how it is still today,” she says, adding how it had shaped her appreciation for the industry.
Despite growing up in a family whose business has been passed down for generations, there were no expectations of Yam to join Tang Kay Kee. That said, she did not want to take over the family business either. “I wanted to explore the world and carve out my own identity, maybe even land a corporate job,” she explains. However, as she got involved in the business over the years, she realised how taking over was more than just food. Rather, it was about legacy, love, and community. This led her to take a leap of faith to join the family business full-time.
For Yam, transitioning from a part-time role to full-time was challenging. She explained that while the workload didn’t intimidate her, the lack of days off and the conditions of having no air conditioning and working alongside elders were significant changes. “I felt like I was discovering my voice in an overwhelming world. There were moments of self-doubt along the way, but I gradually found my groove,” she says.
Above Yam grew up surrounded by food and the bustling hawker scene (Photo: Tang Kay Kee)
Yam grew up surrounded by food and the bustling hawker scene (Photo: Tang Kay Kee)
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Yam admits that while her grandaunt taught her the value of hard work and resilience, going through the experience was daunting. “It was incredibly challenging … I still struggle with it at times,” she says. She has learnt how precious time is and can’t afford to spend it frivolously. “[Although] the concept of hawkers has evolved, the working hours remain unchanged,” she explains.
The young hawker believes that fond memories always outweigh the tough times. Reflecting on her most memorable experience, she says: “I’ll never forget the first time a customer told me they used to enjoy my great-grandfather’s food on the streets. It filled me with awe to realise the rich heritage we share with our customers,” she says, adding that the moment had hit her hard, and she realised the impact of her work on others.
Over the years, she has often seen families celebrating milestones at the restaurant, making her appreciate her work even more. She continues: “Hearing how our food is part of their traditions fills me with pride to do what I love every day.”
In case you missed it: The best Hainanese curry rice in Singapore, according to local chefs
Above Kamen Tang, Debbie Yam and grandaunt Tang Yock Cheng (Photo: Tang Kay Kee)
Kamen Tang, Debbie Yam and grandaunt Tang Yock Cheng (Photo: Tang Kay Kee)
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A beautiful mess
Yam relates working with family to a double-edged sword. While the family support system is strong, emotions can also run high. She explains: “You get their unwavering support but also face the challenges that come with it.” She remembers when she got into a heated argument with her grandaunt at work. “Afterwards, she still made me soup. It reminded me that love runs deeper than our disagreements,” she says.
She quickly learnt the importance of separating personal relationships from business decisions. After all, passion can spark disagreements. But with communication and listening, Yam and her family always find common ground. “We have our ups and downs but at the end of the day, it’s about love and support … we have our moments, but at the end of the day, we support each other,” she says.
Being in the industry for over 70 years, the restaurant has its fair share of hurdles, from financial struggles to fierce competition. But, working towards a common goal keeps them going. For Yam and her family, each challenge has only strengthened their bond, reminding them of the power of patience and understanding.
Read more: The best KL-style Hokkien mee in Singapore, according to local chefs
Above Tang Kay Kee introduced Tze Char bowls (Photo: Tang Kay Kee)
Tang Kay Kee introduced Tze Char bowls (Photo: Tang Kay Kee)
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Embracing change
Yam didn’t feel the weight of expectations this strongly growing up, but shares that it has been different in recent years. She explains that she often grapples with the fear of disappointing her family while trying to find her own path. “Over time, I realised that while their legacy rested on my shoulders, I could still carve my way within it,” she muses.
Over the years, the brand has learnt to embrace change, incorporating modern flavours and social media strategies to engage with customers. Yam also believes in resonating with the younger generation by experimenting with new flavours and creating an inviting atmosphere that speaks to younger diners. “I hope to inspire a new generation of hawkers to embrace our culture while respecting our roots,” she muses.
“We’re [also] experimenting with social media engagement and sharing our different stories to showcase the hawker culture,” she says. This means consistently working to engage and connect with the community to raise awareness of hawker culture. She adds that the response has been heartwarming with many beginning to recognise hawkers as “vital contributors to our culture”.
Above While Tang Kay Kee stays connected to its customers, they’re always open to change (Photo: Tang Kay Kee)
While Tang Kay Kee stays connected to its customers, they’re always open to change (Photo: Tang Kay Kee)
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While Tang Kay Kee remains connected to its customers, it’s always open to change. Yam believes in the importance of evolving while staying true to their roots. “Staying flexible and willing to adapt is key,” she adds. For one, the brand looks to introduce new dishes that blend traditional recipes with modern twists. “I can’t wait for everyone to try them,” she shares. Along with new dishes, the brand is looking to collaborate with like-minded creatives in the industry in hopes of elevating the hawker scene through a new lens.
Reflecting on her journey in the industry, Yam reveals her gratitude to those who have supported the brand over the years. “[Their] love and encouragement fuel our passion and together, we can continue to build something beautiful,” she explains.
Yam sees the importance of having a strong community and along with the rise of young hawkers, she believes that Singapore’s hawker culture will continue to thrive.
Amanda Goh was the former senior writer for Tatler Singapore.
