Cover The young hawkers preserving local food heritage and legacy in Singapore
The young hawkers preserving local food heritage and legacy in Singapore
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A glimpse into the lives of four young hawker chefs as they work to preserve this unique food culture and carry forward its legacy for future generations
Singapore’s food scene is undeniably fascinating, with troops of award-winning chefs all ready to be put to the test. But few figures embody the modern Singapore spirit—dynamic, diverse, and deliciously daring—as much as hawkers do. Fuelling the nation with humble staples, these young hawkers represent a new generation of culinary artists, redefining what it means to serve up time-tested recipes that delight the young and old.
In this edition, Tatler Dining delves into the lives and inspirations of four spirited hawkers, each one a flavourful journey that reflects their storied backgrounds, ambitions, and the love they pour into every dish. Whether conservative custodians or forward-thinking innovators, this lot is living proof that Singapore’s unique hawkering culture is still very much alive, and preserving it is of utmost imperative.
So forget the notion that hawker food is merely a quick gritty bite. Instead, head out, feast, and show love to all courageous young hawkers out there putting in the work.
Read more: Love local: A new generation of chefs is redefining modern Singaporean cuisine
You Fu Fried Hokkien Prawn Noodle
Above The 25‐year‐old first opened You Fu Fried Hokkien Prawn Noodle in Golden Mile Food Centre
The 25‐year‐old first opened You Fu Fried Hokkien Prawn Noodle in Golden Mile Food Centre
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At 14, Andre Ong was strong‐armed into helping out his dad at Changi Village Fried Hokkien Mee, where he switched between tending to the till and the dishwasher. Little did he know that his casual attempt at frying a plate of Hokkien mee would trigger a fervent passion for cooking. After 11 years of working at various hawker stalls and Western restaurants, and disheartened that heritage food is slowly disappearing as many hawker stalwarts are unwilling to pass down their recipes, Ong decided to pursue the hawker trade full‐time.
In 2020, the 25‐year‐old opened You Fu Fried Hokkien Prawn Noodle in Golden Mile Food Centre to honour the dish that started it all. He debuted with his dad’s recipe, but was quick on his feet to tweak it to suit the palates of Hokkien mee fans. Soon, the stall—which was then run by him and his brother, but is now solely operated by the latter and renamed Shiok Hokkien Mee—garnered crowds and media attention. Riding on its success, Ong roped in his dad and brother for expansion, opening outposts around the island.
In case you missed it: The best hokkien mee in Singapore, according to local chefs
Above An umami‐laden plate with bouncy noodles imbued with the kiss of the wok
An umami‐laden plate with bouncy noodles imbued with the kiss of the wok
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In the name of friendly competition, the stalls under the You Fu umbrella sport different names, with each family member managing his own “brand”—Ong, for instance, helms Fu Zai Enterprise, with stalls at Woodlands and Kovan. The recipes may vary across outlets, but no matter which diners visit, they can still expect an umami‐laden plate with bouncy noodles imbued with the kiss of the wok.
You Fu Fried Hokkien Prawn Noodle (Multiple outlets)
Address: 941 Upper Serangoon Road, S(534709)
Rolina Traditional Hainanese Curry Puff
Above Jolene Tham is the third‐generation owner of the famed Rolina Traditional Hainanese Curry Puff
Jolene Tham is the third‐generation owner of the famed Rolina Traditional Hainanese Curry Puff
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Handmade curry puffs are not a commodity like they once were and Jolene Tham knows this all too well. The third‐generation owner of the famed Rolina Traditional Hainanese Curry Puff is committed to keeping its more‐than‐60‐year legacy alive, which began with a chance encounter in the late 1950s between founder Tham Niap Tong, who is her grandfather, and a Hainanese sailor, who shared a curry puff recipe.
What started as a pushcart business by Novena Church found permanence in Tanjong Pagar Plaza Market & Food Centre, and garnered fans thanks to its ultra‐crunchy curry puff filled with a mix of spiced potatoes and chicken meat, or sardines, which turn up the Scoville units with a spicier blend of chillies.
Above Rolina’s signature curry puff filled with a mix of spiced potatoes and chicken meat
Rolina’s signature curry puff filled with a mix of spiced potatoes and chicken meat
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Helping out at the family stall since she was in her teens, the 24‐year‐old is now a full‐time hawker chef who has teamed up with her fiancé to run the stall. The pair hope to maintain the curry puff’s high standards passed down for generations and continue to share this traditional taste with modern‐day gourmands.
Rolina Traditional Hainanese Curry Puff
Address: 6 Tanjong Pagar Plaza, #02-15 Tanjong Pagar Market and Food Centre, S(081006)
In case you missed it: The best curry puffs in Singapore, according to local chef Willin Low
Niu Bi
Above Lincoln Peck first opened Niu Bi in Amoy Street Food Centre in mid‐2023
Lincoln Peck first opened Niu Bi in Amoy Street Food Centre in mid‐2023
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Lincoln Peck’s perseverance to keep a 120‐year‐old traditional Teochew beef noodle recipe alive commands respect. At Niu Bi, which he opened in Amoy Street Food Centre in mid‐2023, the 29‐year‐old safeguards a recipe inspired by beef noodle soup served at the legendary Hock Lam Beef—touted to be the only hawker that follows the original recipe.
Wanting to preserve the dish’s rich hawker legacy, he staged at the now‐defunct Empress Place Teochew Beef Kway Teow in Siglap (founded by the third‐generation owner of Hock Lam Beef that offered the same authentic recipe) and gleaned the ins and outs of the trade.
Above Peck’ recipe is based off the 120‐year‐old legendary Hock Lam Beef
Peck’ recipe is based off the 120‐year‐old legendary Hock Lam Beef
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His culinary experience led him to create his own version of the popular dish, made of fresh, silky kway teow and flavourful broth, and swimming with tender cuts of beef. Forging ahead, Peck embraces innovation, yet remains pragmatic. He reveals that he currently browns the bones to amplify the depth of the broth, coats the noodles in beef tallow and even makes his own chilli that incorporates fresh pineapples.
Niu Bi
Address: 7 Maxwell Road, #02-98, S(069111)
Tang Kay Kee Fish Head Bee Hoon
Above Debbie Yam is the fourth‐generation hawker of Tang Kay Kee Fish Head Bee Hoon
Debbie Yam is the fourth‐generation hawker of Tang Kay Kee Fish Head Bee Hoon
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Fourth‐generation hawkers are a rarity, which makes Debbie Yam kind of a big deal. Taking over the reins of Tang Kay Kee Fish Head Bee Hoon, a stalwart in Hong Lim Market & Food Centre serving up tze char fare and its signboard dish since 1946, the 34‐year‐old single‐handedly prevented the demise of the multi‐generational business back in 2016, when it almost went to sale.
Not wanting her great‐grandfather’s legacy to dwindle, she left the corporatised think tanks for the mighty wok. Since her tenure, Yam has gained the trust of finicky regulars who blackballed her when she first took the helm because of her cooking.
Above The signature bowl of Tang Kay Kee Fish Head Bee Hoon
The signature bowl of Tang Kay Kee Fish Head Bee Hoon
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Her efforts to innovate have not gone unnoticed either. She has carved out a nifty lunch programme, dishing out modern tze char bowls such as har cheong (prawn paste) chicken bites over jasmine rice served with crispy enoki tempura and a sous vide egg.
Outside of the kitchen, Yam is an active hawker culture ambassador, often participating in talks for public schools and local universities to champion this uniquely Singaporean heritage, destigmatise its often misunderstood image and, hopefully, inspire the next generation to keep it going.
Tang Kay Kee Fish Head Bee Hoon
Address: 531A Upper Cross Street, #01-70, Hong Lim Market & Food Centre, S(051531)
Credits
Art Direction: Jeremy Ang and Charlene Lee
Photography: Melvin Wong
