Cover From the recycled art installations of Penguin Village to the century-old alleyways of 1913 Songjeong Station Market, Gwangju offers an alternative look at Korean history, contemporary art and regional cuisine (Photo: Visit Korea)
From the recycled art installations of Penguin Village to the century-old alleyways of 1913 Songjeong Station Market, Gwangju offers an alternative look at Korean history, contemporary art and regional cuisine (Photo: Visit Korea)
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From fan murals to culinary streets, explore Gwangju, the creative city where BTS star J-Hope spent his formative years
Gwangju is the sixth-largest metropolis in South Korea, situated in the southwestern region of the country. Historically recognized as the cradle of the South Korean pro-democracy movement, the city holds significant cultural and political weight. In contemporary pop culture, it is increasingly visited by global music fans as the birthplace of Jung Ho-seok, known globally as J-Hope of BTS. This destination combines historical depth, urban art initiatives, dynamic local markets and a distinct culinary identity. For travellers looking to explore South Korea beyond Seoul, this guide outlines the key cultural landmarks, fan sites and culinary destinations that define the local urban experience.
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What is Gwangju known for?
The city is primarily known for its pivotal role in modern South Korean history, particularly the Gwangju Democratization Uprising of 18 May 1980. During this critical juncture, local citizens and university students demonstrated against military coup leader Chun Doo-hwan, demanding democratic reforms and the lift of martial law. The subsequent state-led military crackdown resulted in significant casualties, solidifying the city as the historical conscience of South Korea and a symbol of civil resistance. Today, this heritage is preserved through the May 18th National Cemetery and dedicated archives inscribed in the UNESCO Memory of the World Register.
Beyond its historical legacy, the city serves as a major regional hub for the arts, anchoring the contemporary creative scene through the Gwangju Biennale. Established in 1995 to honour the democratic spirit of the 1980 uprising, this international exhibition has grown into one of the premier contemporary art festivals in Asia, attracting global curators and avant-garde artists every two years.
The region is also celebrated for its rich culinary heritage, anchored by the fertile plains of the Honam region and the nearby coastal waters. This geographic advantage produces distinct regional dishes, complex fermented kimchis and multi-course table feasts known as Hanjeongsik, which feature deep, robust flavours that differ significantly from the milder culinary profiles found in the capital.
J-Hope’s Gwangju roots
Before achieving global success with BTS, J-Hope spent his formative years in the city, attending Seoil Elementary School and Kukje High School. His childhood and early years as a street dancer heavily influenced his artistic identity. Under the stage name Smile Hoya, he joined the local underground street dance crew Neuron as its youngest member, sharpening his popping and locking skills in the street dance battles of the regional scene. He trained for six years at the Joy Dance Plug In Music Academy, located near Geumnam-ro, an institution that now displays commemorative plaques and photos of the artist at its entrance.
He frequently references his hometown in his music, utilizing the local telephone area code "062" and the date of the historic democracy movement "518" in the track Ma City. His lyrics also explicitly mention Geumnam-ro and Chungjang-ro, the local streets where he trained and performed as an underground dancer before moving to Seoul. His 2024 solo album and documentary project, Hope on the Street, features a title track named Neuron, directly paying homage to his original Gwangju dance roots.
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Things to do in Gwangju
Visit Penguin Village
Located in the Yangnim-dong neighbourhood, Penguin Village is an open-air art community created by local residents. The area earned its name from the waddling gait of its elderly inhabitants, particularly a resident who walked with a distinct limp following a traffic accident and led the initial clean-up efforts after a village fire in 2013.
Residents transformed the old residential quarter into a public craft street by repurposing scrap metal, vintage clocks, old electronics and recycled materials into street art installations. The village features two large murals dedicated to J-Hope, funded by international fan collectives, which serve as major photography points for visitors. These public artworks are notable for being the only murals in the entire village that depict a specific real-world individual.
Shop at 1913 Songjeong Station Market
Situated directly across from the KTX railway terminal, this traditional market dates back over a century. Facing decline due to modern supermarkets, the space underwent a complete redesign centered on the theme of time, aiming to preserve the architectural history of the alleyway while modernising its commercial appeal.
The current market preserves historical building footprints and retro signage while integrating modern storefronts run by young entrepreneurs. Visitors can explore a variety of street food options, including egg-wrapped rice rolls, traditional walnut cakes, artisanal manju and local craft beer. The pavement also features brass numbers embedded in the ground, indicating the founding year of each historic shop.
Enjoy Gwangju’s amusement parks
For recreation, the city features localized amusement facilities that offer a classic entertainment experience. Kumho Family Land, located within the larger Uchi Park complex, serves as the primary amusement destination in the region.
The park features standard roller coasters, water rides and a large Ferris wheel that provides panoramic views of the surrounding northern district. The park is frequently visited by local families and young residents seeking outdoor leisure. The broader park complex also incorporates a botanical garden and a zoo, making it a central space for regional outdoor recreation.
Explore the Asian Cultural Center
The National Asian Culture Center is a massive complex dedicated to global artistic exchange and cultural research. Built partly underground to preserve the structural visibility of the historic Old Jeonnam Provincial Office, which served as a critical headquarters during the 1980 democratic uprising, the facility features striking modern architecture based on concepts of light and forest.
The complex includes state-of-the-art exhibition halls, performance theatres, a comprehensive library and a rooftop green space called Hanul Madang, where public gatherings and night markets occur. It stands as one of the largest cultural facilities in South Korea, linking local history directly with international contemporary arts.
Eat to your heart’s content at Tteokgalbi Street
Located in the Gwangsan-gu district near the train station, Songjeong Tteokgalbi Street is a culinary avenue dedicated to grilled minced meat patties. Unlike the version found in other regions which uses purely beef, the local variation blends minced beef and pork in equal proportions to achieve a softer texture and prevent the meat from drying out during the cooking process.
The patties are seasoned with a sweet soy glaze and grilled over charcoal. Restaurants along this street traditionally serve the dish alongside a complimentary, continuous supply of clear pork bone broth and local side dishes, showcasing the generous hospitality that characterises the broader culinary culture of the Jeolla province.
Chonx Tibajia is a senior editor at Tatler Asia’s T-Labs team, where she writes widely on lifestyle subjects including beauty, style, entertainment and travel. She has a long career in journalism, including roles as a columnist at The Philippine Star, and is the founder of the creative platform Pineappleversed. Beyond Tatler, her bylines appear in regional lifestyle and business publications, showcasing a broad portfolio that spans beauty trends, travel guides and culture pieces.
