Cover Chef Willin Low, who pioneered “Mod-Sin” cuisine in Singapore

Explore these restaurants and cafés in this village in Hokkaido, Japan after a long day of skiing, as recommended by the acclaimed forefather of Mod-Sin cuisine

Heading to Niseko this winter for a ski holiday? If you find yourself among the snow-capped mountains in this village in Hokkaido looking for something to eat, chef Willin Low knows where to go. The Singaporean chef is known for coining the term “Mod-Sin”, short for modern Singaporean cuisine, which he explored to great acclaim at his now-closed restaurant Wild Rocket. During winter season, you will find him temporarily based in Niseko with his restaurant, Roketto, a noodle bar which also offers omakase dinners. When he’s not in the kitchen, you’ll find him exploring the picturesque village for a good, hot meal. Here are his favourites.

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1. Ichimura Soba

“I eat here more than any other restaurant as it’s near my restaurant, and we love the soba here. I prefer cold soba (more bite) and always order it with mixed tempura. Don’t forget to order a side of maitake or oyster tempura (depending on what is in season). There are long queues, so get here early.”

Ichimura Soba
Address: 68-4 Aza-Yamada, Kutchan-cho, Abuta-gun, Hokkaido 044-0081, +81 0136-23-0603

2. Niseko Sanroku Parlour

Tatler Asia
Above One of the many sandwiches at Niseko Sanroku Parlour (Photo: Powderlife)

“Near the Hilton Niseko Village hotel, there’s a quaint shipping container converted into a café with good sandwiches. It’s run by a local family—the husband works at the back-of-house, and the wife and daughter run the front-of-house. Try the venison burger with home-baked buns for something different.”

Niseko Sanroku Parlour
Address: 19-19 Higashiyama, Niseko, Abuta District, Hokkaido 048-1521, Japan, +81 136 55 8918

3. Jamii Niseko

“Soup curry is basically a Hokkaido speciality—sometimes it’s easy to forget that when you’re surrounded by resort restaurants. This popular local restaurant & bar located next to Niseko train station has a laid back Jamaican charm. Besides great soup curry, live music is available some nights.”

Jamii Niseko
Address: 142-5 Chuodori, Niseko, Abuta District, Hokkaido 048-1512, Japan, +81 136-44-2113

4. Sushi Shin by Miyakawa Niseko

“So far the best sushi-ya I have been to in Niseko. From the hinoki counter to the seasonal fish sourced mainly from Hokkaido, this refined Edomae-style sushi restaurant is a luxurious delight and a good break from the crowds.”

Sushi Shin by Miyakawa Niseko
Address: 4-5-32, 1 Jo, Niseko Hirafu, Kuchan-cho, Abuta-gun, Hokkaido 044-0080, Japan, +81 136 56 8560

5. Roketto Restaurant & Bar

Tatler Asia
Above Snow crab broth laksa udon at Roketto (Photo: Facebook / Roketto Restaurant & Bar)

“Of course I have to recommend my own restaurant. During the day we run a casual self service noodle bar with either snow crab broth laksa udon, or rotators pork bak kut teh ramen. For dinner, we transform into a Mod-Sin omakase restaurant utilising seasonal local ingredients.”

Roketto Restaurant & Bar
Address: 204-27 Yamada, Kutchan-cho, Abuta-gun 044-0081 Hokkaido, +81 136 56 8800

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Ethan Kan
Dining writer, Tatler Singapore
Tatler Asia

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Ethan is a dining writer with Tatler Singapore. Trained in literary arts and filmmaking, their work has previously been published in Esquire Singapore, Men's Folio, and with the Asian Film Archive and the Singapore International and Film Festival, across a wide range of interests from gastronomy to fashion and arts criticism. 

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Ethan writes about exciting news in the F&B industry, specialising in fine dining, exclusive spirits launches, and new restaurants. They are always looking for riveting voices to bring something fresh to an already-dynamic industry.

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