A travel guide to Victoria: What to see, eat and do across Australia’s southeast coastline

When we visited, the gallery was gearing up for the launch of its latest big-ticket exhibition: Cutting Through Time—an exceptionally beautiful display of Japanese woodblock prints (ukiyo-e) and paintings by two of Australia’s most beloved printmakers, Cressida Campbell and Margaret Preston.

For lunch, we delved deeper into Victoria’s unique culinary offerings with Portarlington Mussel Tours, which sets off from the Bellarine Peninsula, a short and scenic 30-minute drive away from Geelong. This intimate boat excursion grants privileged access to the mussel farming process, culminating in a chef-led cooking demonstration and a gourmet lunch served aboard. We sipped on local Bellarine wines while cruising on the glistening waters of Port Philip Bay, enthralled by captain Lance Wiffen’s extensive knowledge of the surrounding marine life.

Being a third-generation farmer, Wiffen is adept at taking us through the process of sustainable shellfish farming, and later on, encourages us to pick our own mussels from the ropes pulled from the waters. Amid panoramic views of the sky and sea, the quaint onboard kitchen came alive with the smells and sounds of a mussels Kilpatrick dish utilising our fresh bounty. Other courses soon followed, with a scallop ceviche and seafood stew proving most popular. These cooking demonstrations are integral to the Portarlington Mussel Tour, which seeks to make seafood preparation and enjoyment approachable for all through an immersive experience that connects connoisseurs directly with the source of their meals.

From the harbour, venture up to Jack Rabbit Vineyard, a must-visit winery in the region. Perched on the edge of Bellarine Peninsula, the iconic destination offers unrivalled views across the bay to Geelong, the mountainous ridges of the You Yangs, all the makings of a stunning backdrop that complements an exquisite wine-tasting session. The vineyard’s dedication to viticulture and gastronomy makes it a haven for epicureans and oenophiles alike.

Winemaker Nyall Condon’s approach to winemaking champions minimal intervention and retaining the natural characters of each varietal, simply put: the grape is the hero. The result is a range of award-winning cool climate wines, from crisp Blanc de Blanc to robust Shiraz Cabernet, which offers a nuanced introduction to the region’s viticultural mastery.

As the sun sets on an afternoon of culinary indulgence, retreat to the serene sanctuary of the nearby Curlewis Golf Club. Nestled in the heart of the Bellarine Peninsula, the club offers a welcome change of pace. It’s a tranquil retreat where manicured greens meet coastal panoramas thanks to its world-class fairways.

Flanking one of the region’s most revered golf courses is the newly added accommodation complex, offering eco-suites within indigenous landscapes. We checked into the Premium Bay View room which boasts exhilarating views across the fairways to the bay—best enjoyed on the private balcony.

Read more: Beyond the birdie: 5 best golf courses in Australia

The greens lie a short walk away from the residential compound, boasting 6150 metres and a challenging par-71/73—a test of aptitude that golf enthusiasts will surely relish. For a more casual outing, the on-site mini-golf course, driving range and rental bicycles provide leisurely alternatives.

Curlewis’s onsite bistro means you won’t have to venture much more than a short stroll across the fairways for dinner. Claribeaux is the club’s signature French restaurant that elevates sustainable local produce with contemporary techniques. Think innovative fusion dishes including juniper spiced venison, and the crowd-pleasing crumbed chicken cordon bleu.

Bidding farewell to the Bellarine Peninsula, we make our way to Queenscliff Ferry Terminal, stopping for breakfast at Tarra, a breathtaking beachfront destination. Surrounded by the vast expanse of the ocean, every seat of the 60-top restaurant guarantees a majestic view of the pristine waters. Helmed by executive chef Michael Demagistris, its mantra of “simple things done extraordinarily well” shines in a menu of familiar favourites and innovative culinary creations.

It’s a commitment reflected in Tarra’s partnership with local Mornington and Bellarine Peninsulas suppliers to source seasonal and sustainable ingredients, offering elevated brunch plates finished with herbs and greens foraged right by the water.

Finally, it’s time to board the ferry that will take us across the bay to Mornington Peninsula. The 40-minute sail is a leisurely cruise that passes golden sandy beaches and clifftop mansions dotting the rugged coastline. The ferry boasts expansive viewing decks both inside and out, perfect for taking in coastal vistas and, if you’re lucky, dolphin-spotting on clear days. More than mere transportation; it’s an opportunity to spot marine life and absorb coastal vistas. The onboard café, serving regional wines and craft beers, ensures the crossing is as enjoyable as it is scenic.

Mornington Peninsula unfolds like a living canvas, its rolling hills adorned with pristine beaches, verdant vineyards, and silvery olive groves. And perched on the edge of the peninsula is the charming town of Sorrento, which captivates with its limestone architecture and vibrant seaside ambience. This charming town offers privileged access to both tranquil bay beaches and dramatic ocean shores, making it an ideal base for exploration.

Our first stop in Sorrento is the JimmyRum Distillery, the first dedicated craft rum distillery in Victoria. Founder and head distiller James McPherson believes rum has been misunderstood for far too long, and is on a mission to expose consumers to the beauty and nuances of Australian-crafted rum. Against the backdrop of Matilda—the distillery’s impressive 1,500-litre copper still—McPherson guides us through JimmyRum’s core spirits range including Barbados; Navy; and Silver rum, as well as its special range of limited edition batches and those yet-to-be-released. These guided tasting sessions are available from Thursdays to Sundays, while its interactive Rum Distilling experience and Spice It Your Way masterclasses are held on alternate weeks.

For lunch, Pt. Leo Estate, a proud member of the prestigious Relais & Châteaux group, is a verified culinary crescendo. In addition to its own vineyard, the impressive 50-acre estate houses three dining venues and Australia’s largest independent sculpture park with artwork from celebrated artists like Kaws, Yayoi Kusama, and George Rickey.

While each of the three dining venues put forward tantalising menus inspired by seasonal Australian produce, our choice for lunch is the impressive two-Chef’s Hat (Australia’s Michelin Guide equivalent) Laura restaurant. Its Signature and Seasonal Experience menus invite guests to connect with the flavours of the region through thoughtfully curated courses, showcasing the best produce of the season. After indulging in an unhurried lunch—paired with Laura’s 750-strong wine menu, of course—meander through the sculpture park before stopping by Pt. Leo’s Premium Cellar Door to bring home a bottle of its acclaimed wines.

As day turns to evening, we retreat to the luxurious Peninsula Hot Springs, Victoria’s first natural thermal mineral springs and day spa. This award-winning destination boasts over 50 globally inspired bathing experiences, from cave pools to hilltop baths filled with natural thermal waters.

To make the most of your trip of ultimate relaxation and rejuvenation, stay overnight (or even the weekend) in one of Peninsula’s luxury glamping tents. Nestled in the natural surroundings of the hot springs, these tents redefine the glamorous camping experience with private decks, king beds, full ensuites, underfloor geothermal heating and bespoke furnishings. Designed for pure relaxation in the most idyllic setting, it’s the veritable perfect finale to your Victorian adventure. 

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