Memento Vivere: Embarking on a journey under the Tuscan sun

One evening, I spent almost two hours preparing a simple pasta: scarlet, fleshy, sun-ripened tomatoes and fragrant heirloom garlic and onions stewed slowly with intent in herbaceous olive oil. The sauce was thick and naturally sweet, vibrantly piqued with fresh basil, ground black pepper and shards of parmesan.

Other meals were taken at quaint establishments ensconced in a colonnade of a charming, low-profile towns or under the dappled light of swaying trees. There was patiently made wild boar ragu tumbled over paper thin pappardelle, a blindingly chartreuse risotto of creamed and pureed leafy seasonal greens; it was neither clumpy nor soupy, but perfectly exhaled on the plate. Hand chopped steak tartare, prepared tableside with finely minced onions, capers, herbs and saucy little splash of cognac was a gustatory revelation – one that demanded an encore on my final evening.

Read also: With roots in Vincenza, Italy, Andrea Zanella of A.zeta Kitchen makes pasta the traditional way

Across the region, every mouthful burst with flavour and revealed an extraordinary culinary heritage. The produce, the game and the wine are all generous gifts from the fertile, ancient lands. This is best embodied in a sumptuous and silken glass of Brunello, a meticulous expression of love between man and earth.

A close friend of mine kindly arranged a visit to Conti Costanti, one of the most prestigious vineyards in Tuscany. Just outside the historic town of Montalcino is a cluster of wineries producing Brunello, an appellation with the strictest of guidelines in production and methodology, always ensuring elevated quality in the vinification and cellaring process of the Sangioviese Grosso.

The vine-draped edifice, with elegant archways and porticos, seems straight out of a dream. The estate, founded in 1555, has been in the family for centuries and is currently helmed by sixth generation Andrea Costanti. My friends and I had the privilege of a private audience with the winemaker himself. Clad in jeans and a dark t-shirt, he greeted us warmly, like old friends. Just a few days before the harvest, one would think he would be frazzled and preoccupied, yet he was exactly the opposite.

After a quick tour of the 12th century structure, he leads us up a winding staircase that opens to an exposed terrace. “To understand Brunello, you must understand the landscape,” he declares with a smile. “The soil is so important. The wind, the sun, the slope… all the elements of the terroir that make it truly special.” With only 12 hectares of vineyards, Costanti produces just 30,000 bottles of the appellation per year. Andrea is unwavering and will even forgo the production of Brunello on years that are not up to standard. The meticulously grown and hand-picked grapes have their fate decided on harvest day— will they be destined for one of his prestigious Brunello vintages or more accessible Rosso di Montalcino.

It’s hard to express the love I have for wine. The beauty that lies in the singularity of each bottle each glass, each sip. The aromas that engulf you, taking you on a journey to distant lands. The first mouthful that prickles the cheeks and causes a slight salivation. The second, that is silken and definitive, followed by a flush of emotion. It’s a living, breathing testament to the symbiosis between land and hand, yet is still vulnerable to divine intervention. A good wine is only possible when Bacchus shines kindly upon it.

The magic of the surroundings makes my skin tingle. As far back as the Etruscan times, these ancient lands have always produced wines and to see a man so passionate about the continuation of his heritage, blending traditional wisdom and modern expertise with the savvy of an alchemist, is truly inspiring.

We drove home happily, a little tipsy, singing and laughing in the car, when the sky dramatically turned purple as the sun fell behind the horizon. The vision of majestic trees silhouetted against those indigo hues was arresting. We stopped the car and just stared in awe. It was spellbinding.

The captivating luminescence of la Toscana is omnipresent. During the last leg of my stay, I made my way back to the foothills of Montalcino and found myself in an exquisite suite overlooking a lush canopy of trees, with the hilltop town towering in the distance, ethereal sunbeams streaming through my bedroom window.

Situated in the Unesco World Heritage Site of Val d’Orcia, Rosewood Castiglion del Bosco is a microcosm of Tuscan living at its best. The property is set within a 5,000-acre estate founded by Massimo and Chiara Ferragamo and features a verdant, protected forest, terraced organic gardens, an 18-hole private golf course, an adjacent winery, an expertly run spa and two stunning infinity pools that overlook the iconic rolling hills of the Italian countryside.

The 900-year-old ruins of the ancient tower stand proudly atop a slope overlooking the rest of the village. A mediaeval-century church with frescoes by master Pietro Lorenzetti is a sanctuary for many couples making the pilgrimage to exchange their vows or for individuals to spend a quiet moment in spiritual solitude. Cobblestone pathways sparkle in the dappled light that peeks through cypress trees. Castiglion del Bosco’s historic buildings have been exquisitely reconverted into luxury accommodations, each room with its own unique, stately charm.

However, the true highlight of the property is the impeccable, warm and thoughtful personal service by passionate and well-trained staff whose only desire is to make your experience unforgettable.

During one pool side evening, Chiara, the resort’s charming sommelier, boldly declared that “rules are meant to be broken” when nothing on the proposed wine list appealed to me. I desired something local, not Champagne nor Chardonnay. She then called for a few special bottles to be brought directly from the cellar. Not big-ticket luxury labels that can be imbibed anywhere, but truly unique wines with a story that only an impassioned connoisseur would appreciate.

Imagine a beautifully nutty, traditional method Italian sparkling aged solera-style paired with tuna tartar that’s topped with fennel, orange and bottarga. Capricious in flavour, it evolves from vibrant zest to buttery toast as the evening progresses. Or a bottle of Ansonica from the Island of Elba with its distinctive deep golden straw colour and intriguing aromas. This ancient grape varietal is made in the manner of ancient times, pressed by foot on large marbles slabs, not unlike the wines drank in exile by Napoleon himself.

It’s no wonder the deposed emperor managed to plot his escape. Emboldened by the fortifying qualities of the local wine, he felt like he could conquer the world yet again. It’s not unlike how I felt every day in the Tuscan countryside. I was, at once, deeply connected to the earth and the cosmos, in total control of all my senses with a heightened awareness of all the vitality surrounding me. In this ancient land, we fully personify, memento vivere, a remembering of how to live.

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