Cover La Residence Phou Vao in Luang Prabang, Laos
La Residence Phou Vao in Luang Prabang, Laos
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Following a renovation and new creative direction, La Residence Phou Vao is back and more charming than ever
There's a calm about Luang Prabang that's different to other Southeast Asian destinations. The sepia-toned streets. the temples poking out from palm-fringed hills ... even time feels different here, like there's more of it.
“You don’t need to try so hard here. The magic is found in just letting Luang Prabang happen to you," Sanya Souvanna Phouma, a direct descendent of the Lao royal family, tells me. We're sitting poolside at La Residence Phou Vao, where he was brought on board to be the brand and heritage architect to ensure cultural authenticity.
Long before it was a hotel, this hilltop site was the official guest house for state visitors and dignitaries who came to visit the former Laotian royal family. Translating to “hill of kites”, Phou Vao gets its name from its past as a favoured vantage point where Lao princes and kings would fly kites.
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Above The infinity pool at La Residence Phou Vao
The infinity pool at La Residence Phou Vao
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Formerly managed by Belmond, La Residence Phou Vao has returned to its Southeast Asian roots following an acquisition by Bangkok-based HMD Asia, which operates the acclaimed Shinta Mani Hotels. And following a years-long restoration under the creative direction of Phouma, the hotel reopened in January this year with a fresh new look while retaining elements that feel authentic and grounded in Laotian tradition.
That authenticity is found in charming details like the rich silk interiors handcrafted by Lao artisans, and hand-finished French embroidery on staff uniforms; historical cartography and archival illustrations from 19th-century explorers, displayed alongside intricate textile art by celebrated Lao artist Tiao Nith, whose works are found in museums from Paris to New York; and even the music.
As guests arrive, they are treated to recordings of classic Ramayana orchestra pieces once played for royal processions, while their departures are set to French gypsy jazz—a subtle but potent touch that Phouma says “expresses the hotel’s blend of Laotian heritage and French art de vivre”.
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A knack for music and aesthetics comes natural to Phouma. After spending much of his life in Paris, he's now been based in Bangkok for some time where he famously co-founded the now-closed but still fondly remembered Bed Supperclub, and today, his company Farandole Group operates some of the city’s buzziest restaurants including Quince Bangkok and Funky Lam.
Despite finding fame and influence in Bangkok, the return to Luang Prabang to work on such a historically and personally significant project is one he’s deeply passionate about.
One afternoon, Phouma, myself and a few others enjoyed a sunset cruise on the hotel’s long boat—built like traditional vessels, but decked out for five-star comforts, we're greeted by an on-board bar, comfy daybeds, and trays filled with pastries and local fruits. At golden hour, the experience is pure magic.
"Luang Prabang sits on a peninsula where the Mekong River and the Nam Khan River converge," says Phouma. "To me, this confluence is symbolic the act of letting go, of calmly flowing into the next phase without attachment or ego."
Sunrise and sunset cruises aside, La Residence Phou Vao can organise a number of cultural experiences for guests. If you can peel yourself from your wildly comfy hotel bed before sunrise, I highly recommend taking part in almsgiving at Wat Nong Temple It's a sacred, solemn practice; a daily dawn ritual where locals prepare sticky rice and other foods for a precession of hundreds of monks as they walk through Luang Prabang.
Above Almsgiving at dawn with La Residence Phou Vao
Almsgiving at dawn with La Residence Phou Vao
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But I digress. Back to the hotel.
At the heart of the La Residence Phou Vao is the infinity-edged swimming pool surrounded by preserved ancient stone archways, tropical flowers and spacious cabanas, which looks out over a sea of palm trees toward Phou Si Temple. Of its 34 newly decorated suites - each with its own private terrace - I stayed in one with such a view, but you can also choose rooms with vistas of the hotel's fragrant gardens or across to the Old Quarter.
Make time to wander the hotel grounds. There's a sprawling lotus pond, a zen garden, and an actual garden where fresh herbs and vegetables are used in the hotel's restaurant, Tam Nan.
But if you want something more intimate, one of the pagodas can be transformed to a private dining space for a romantic candlelit dinner surrounded by blooming lotuses.
Above The lobby at La Residence Phou Vao
The lobby at La Residence Phou Vao
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Coco Marett is a writer and editor who grew up between Hong Kong and Melbourne. She currently heads the travel section for Tatler Asia, and manages the Tatler Travel account on Instagram. She is known for her features on unique, under-the-radar properties and destinations. She's also known for her in-depth interviews that paint a refreshingly candid portrait of influential figures across various industries —from artists to political figures, CEOs to celebrity chefs. Follow her on Instagram @cocomarett
